HUD in Silverado/Sierra

cmatt · April 8, 2017

Got the terminals to release.

Verified the terminal

...and discovered that I should have ordered the thinner TXL 18ga instead of the GXL type. These connectors have tight tolerances.

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pgamboa · April 8, 2017

What's it's part number?

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15127038 ordered from GMPartsGiant. Listed as the Service Connector on Upfitter.

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pgamboa · April 8, 2017

Got the terminals to release.

Verified the terminal

...and discovered that I should have ordered the thinner TXL 18ga instead of the GXL type. These connectors have tight tolerances.

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Interesting because the Upfitter disclosed that terminal part #...

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pgamboa · April 8, 2017

I have observed that the terminals are built the same (the front portion with the tangs) and the difference is the crimp part. I found that the crimp tool is also important in the pitch used and an incorrectly crimped connector will result in a very difficult insertion.

I learned this the hard way in my Mirror Harness DIY Kit I sell. Played around with different size terminals for different side gauge wire... which meant different crimp tool settings.

BTW - I look at ALL 334 possible connectors on Mouser's site with the filters - "8 Position" and "connectors". There were a couple "close" ones - including the one you bought. No cigar. Guess there isn't an alternate manufacture aside from Yazaki and the GM - AC Delco one you purchased with the pre-terminated leads on them. Sorry sir.

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Edited April 8, 2017 by pgamboa

cmatt · April 8, 2017

I have observed that the terminals are built the same (the front portion with the tangs) and the difference is the crimp part. I found that the crimp tool is also important in the pitch used and an incorrectly crimped connector will result in a very difficult insertion.

I learned this the hard way in my Mirror Harness DIY Kit I sell. Played around with different size terminals for different side gauge wire... which meant different crimp tool settings.

BTW - I look at ALL 334 possible connectors on Mouser's site with the filters - "8 Position" and "connectors". There were a couple "close" ones - including the one you bought. No cigar. Guess there isn't an alternate manufacture aside from Yazaki and the GM - AC Delco one you purchased with the pre-terminated leads on them. Sorry sir.

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Wow, thanks for doing that. At least there I can get the pigtail.

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cmatt · April 8, 2017

Interesting because the Upfitter disclosed that terminal part #...

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I wasn't clear. Sorry about that. The connector specified in the upfitter manual fits perfect. It matches what's in there. The wire I ordered has too thick of an insulation jacket. Did some research and found where GM uses TXL type automotive wire, which has a thinner jacket. GXL is thicker and used more in high heat environments. There's not enough tolerance in the connector for the GXL wire.

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pgamboa · April 8, 2017

I wasn't clear. Sorry about that. The connector specified in the upfitter manual fits perfect. It matches what's in there. The wire I ordered has too thick of an insulation jacket. Did some research and found where GM uses TXL type automotive wire, which has a thinner jacket. GXL is thicker and used more in high heat environments. There's not enough tolerance in the connector for the GXL wire.

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Ah understood. I use Remington 22AWG Stranded wire and has been a good choice. 24AWG was too thin to properly crimp, and 20AWG was too thick on the insulation.

I'd be curious on your source for GM Color Coded Wiring. That would be awesome if I can implement that and be one step closer to "Factory"

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cmatt · April 8, 2017

Ah understood. I use Remington 22AWG Stranded wire and has been a good choice. 24AWG was too thin to properly crimp, and 20AWG was too thick on the insulation.

I'd be curious on your source for GM Color Coded Wiring. That would be awesome if I can implement that and be one step closer to "Factory"

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I've been using 18AWG. However, these connectors have tight tolerances. The TXL type of wire should be thin enough. We'll see when it comes in. If not, I'll look at 20-22AWG.

I'll link to the eBay seller when I get in front of a computer.

Edited April 8, 2017 by cmatt

Likarok · April 9, 2017

Those terminal ends look like the same ones Harley Davidson uses!

Edited April 9, 2017 by Likarok

Static · April 9, 2017

Before its all over somebody is going to transplant the entire dash out of a Yukon LOL. Hopefully this doesnt turn out like that $5k factory brake controller upgrade they where talking about earlier.

stereojnky · April 9, 2017

Before its all over somebody is going to transplant the entire dash out of a Yukon LOL. Hopefully this doesnt turn out like that $5k factory brake controller upgrade they where talking about earlier.

Although that would be cool, at the most, it shouldn't cost more than $1300.

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cmatt · April 9, 2017

This is where I get my wire. Been great to deal with and quick shipping.

http://stores.ebay.com/4rcustomswire/

cmatt · April 10, 2017

Got the Denali cluster and HUD installed today. Thanks for the programming Chris! Pretty amazing that he can make options work that GM won't.

Also put the HUD in, but it doesn't work.

EDIT: I'm an idiot, sort of. Let me say it would be wise to read up on how to operate the HUD unit before jumping to conclusions. Especially turning it on. GM uses the brightness control to turn off the display. I think my issue was that, the display was positioned all the way up and the fact my OE defroster panel was covering the top half of the display.

I know it's not pretty, but here's the harness. I'll make a proper one when I get the smaller wire.

I used one of the grounds the I/P harness uses. You can see the threaded stud and nut just to the left of the speaker.

Added the wire to the cluster harness.

Here's a closeup of the terminals the cluster connector uses.

The yellow dimmer wire from the HUD switch goes to the X2 connector that's located on the backside of the left I/P fuse block.

The red/gray stripe power wire also goes to the same X2 connector.

Here's where the HUD sits.

There's a metal tab just under the plastic tab that needs a j-nut and bolt to secure it. I'll have to grab that from the dealer.

I had to remove about 1/4" of the plastic on the right side so the USB cable off the cluster would fit.

You can see the different shade of the Denali aluminum trim compared to what's on the steering wheel.

The visor wouldn't fit. The opening in the defroster panel is too far left. I'll have to see if the Denali one has a different part number.

Edited April 12, 2017 by cmatt

cmatt · April 12, 2017

So the defroster panels are in fact different. The Yukon Denali one has a wider opening and is positioned just slightly more to the center of the dash compared to the original one in my Yukon SLT. That fits the HUD display perfectly.

You can see how the cluster visor with the HUD cutout now fits.

The correct one is on the left. My original on the right.

I think the HUD unit is supposed to sit up flush to the dash trim. I'll have to figure out how to raise it up and support it.

I think that's what's causing it to have the ghost image.

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Edited April 12, 2017 by cmatt