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HUD in Silverado/Sierra

stereojnky
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cmatt Enthusiast

cmatt

Posted
Posted

Got the terminals to release.

6242fdb69bc2c0a8318c2a6dbfb29551.jpg

 

Verified the terminal

3d65a9a92ea32b5ba9ad7038fd887289.jpg

 

...and discovered that I should have ordered the thinner TXL 18ga instead of the GXL type. These connectors have tight tolerances.

 

 

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pgamboa
pgamboa

@Viktorrocks15   Nice Work!  For anyone that is looking at doing this MOD, I have am now offering the harnessing for this upgrade.  It is $150 shipped, Canada +$10.  It will also include the

stereojnky
stereojnky

You know that old saying, "if you have to ask..." [emoji12] This is easily a $1000 plus mod. It really depends on how much you pay for the cluster and whether it's used or not. One guy paid $150 for a

GTPprix
GTPprix

Just to add some tidbits so they don't get lost:   1. Requires custom programming for factory sierra Denali 2. If not a factory Denali (i.e. Every other c/k truck and SUV) will require Denali clust

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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

What's it's part number?

 

 

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15127038 ordered from GMPartsGiant. Listed as the Service Connector on Upfitter.

 

9da90f058fb55b5e4d598447847b63e7.jpg

 

 

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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Got the terminals to release.

6242fdb69bc2c0a8318c2a6dbfb29551.jpg

 

Verified the terminal

3d65a9a92ea32b5ba9ad7038fd887289.jpg

 

...and discovered that I should have ordered the thinner TXL 18ga instead of the GXL type. These connectors have tight tolerances.

 

 

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Interesting because the Upfitter disclosed that terminal part #...

 

 

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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have observed that the terminals are built the same (the front portion with the tangs) and the difference is the crimp part. I found that the crimp tool is also important in the pitch used and an incorrectly crimped connector will result in a very difficult insertion.

 

I learned this the hard way in my Mirror Harness DIY Kit I sell. Played around with different size terminals for different side gauge wire... which meant different crimp tool settings.

 

BTW - I look at ALL 334 possible connectors on Mouser's site with the filters - "8 Position" and "connectors". There were a couple "close" ones - including the one you bought. No cigar. Guess there isn't an alternate manufacture aside from Yazaki and the GM - AC Delco one you purchased with the pre-terminated leads on them. Sorry sir.

 

 

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Edited by pgamboa
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cmatt Enthusiast

cmatt

Posted
Posted

I have observed that the terminals are built the same (the front portion with the tangs) and the difference is the crimp part. I found that the crimp tool is also important in the pitch used and an incorrectly crimped connector will result in a very difficult insertion.

 

I learned this the hard way in my Mirror Harness DIY Kit I sell. Played around with different size terminals for different side gauge wire... which meant different crimp tool settings.

 

BTW - I look at ALL 334 possible connectors on Mouser's site with the filters - "8 Position" and "connectors". There were a couple "close" ones - including the one you bought. No cigar. Guess there isn't an alternate manufacture aside from Yazaki and the GM - AC Delco one you purchased with the pre-terminated leads on them. Sorry sir.

 

 

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Wow, thanks for doing that. At least there I can get the pigtail.

 

 

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cmatt Enthusiast

cmatt

Posted
Posted

Interesting because the Upfitter disclosed that terminal part #...

 

 

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I wasn't clear. Sorry about that. The connector specified in the upfitter manual fits perfect. It matches what's in there. The wire I ordered has too thick of an insulation jacket. Did some research and found where GM uses TXL type automotive wire, which has a thinner jacket. GXL is thicker and used more in high heat environments. There's not enough tolerance in the connector for the GXL wire.

 

 

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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

I wasn't clear. Sorry about that. The connector specified in the upfitter manual fits perfect. It matches what's in there. The wire I ordered has too thick of an insulation jacket. Did some research and found where GM uses TXL type automotive wire, which has a thinner jacket. GXL is thicker and used more in high heat environments. There's not enough tolerance in the connector for the GXL wire.

 

 

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Ah understood. I use Remington 22AWG Stranded wire and has been a good choice. 24AWG was too thin to properly crimp, and 20AWG was too thick on the insulation.

 

I'd be curious on your source for GM Color Coded Wiring. That would be awesome if I can implement that and be one step closer to "Factory"

 

 

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cmatt Enthusiast

cmatt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ah understood. I use Remington 22AWG Stranded wire and has been a good choice. 24AWG was too thin to properly crimp, and 20AWG was too thick on the insulation.

 

I'd be curious on your source for GM Color Coded Wiring. That would be awesome if I can implement that and be one step closer to "Factory"

 

 

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I've been using 18AWG. However, these connectors have tight tolerances. The TXL type of wire should be thin enough. We'll see when it comes in. If not, I'll look at 20-22AWG.

 

I'll link to the eBay seller when I get in front of a computer.

Edited by cmatt
  • Like 1
Static Enthusiast

Static

Posted
Posted

Before its all over somebody is going to transplant the entire dash out of a Yukon LOL. Hopefully this doesnt turn out like that $5k factory brake controller upgrade they where talking about earlier.

stereojnky Enthusiast

stereojnky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Before its all over somebody is going to transplant the entire dash out of a Yukon LOL. Hopefully this doesnt turn out like that $5k factory brake controller upgrade they where talking about earlier.

Although that would be cool, at the most, it shouldn't cost more than $1300.

 

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cmatt Enthusiast

cmatt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Got the Denali cluster and HUD installed today. Thanks for the programming Chris! Pretty amazing that he can make options work that GM won't.

6edda5eec8511c2dd815020cda948efb.jpg

 

Also put the HUD in, but it doesn't work.

 

EDIT: I'm an idiot, sort of. Let me say it would be wise to read up on how to operate the HUD unit before jumping to conclusions. Especially turning it on. GM uses the brightness control to turn off the display. I think my issue was that, the display was positioned all the way up and the fact my OE defroster panel was covering the top half of the display.

 

2e9f64cf61560911cad487ef30f1050a.jpg

 

I know it's not pretty, but here's the harness. I'll make a proper one when I get the smaller wire.

e73b4c354c6c03a5119cbd17d05c831f.jpg

 

I used one of the grounds the I/P harness uses. You can see the threaded stud and nut just to the left of the speaker.

b879df7a27afaac1a5a9c4a95d0af656.jpg

 

Added the wire to the cluster harness.

764a6c4617624034e676044f2e4dacff.jpg

 

Here's a closeup of the terminals the cluster connector uses.

f176f4e67399ca6c69903504b30bd519.jpg

 

The yellow dimmer wire from the HUD switch goes to the X2 connector that's located on the backside of the left I/P fuse block.

f3ccfbfadede7b8316e5ace0ceabcab7.jpg

 

The red/gray stripe power wire also goes to the same X2 connector.

b5f2ceee61f8bd903bf369581b5ff3c8.jpg

 

Here's where the HUD sits.

3758ceeb0c45d0b4b1b5796bce55c593.jpg

 

There's a metal tab just under the plastic tab that needs a j-nut and bolt to secure it. I'll have to grab that from the dealer.

f33b4a892a28807e938e715907c670e6.jpg

 

I had to remove about 1/4" of the plastic on the right side so the USB cable off the cluster would fit.

2194561e5b4b9becf616b6ba1f46c420.jpg

 

You can see the different shade of the Denali aluminum trim compared to what's on the steering wheel.

01e0983fe0ab867945ed85a60bd2474b.jpg

 

The visor wouldn't fit. The opening in the defroster panel is too far left. I'll have to see if the Denali one has a different part number.

48fdf17ae44e263066a18e91c56fe614.jpg

Edited by cmatt
  • Like 2
cmatt Enthusiast

cmatt

Posted
Posted (edited)

So the defroster panels are in fact different. The Yukon Denali one has a wider opening and is positioned just slightly more to the center of the dash compared to the original one in my Yukon SLT. That fits the HUD display perfectly.

1f2f965d9c578bdbae321d4b59226de9.jpg

 

You can see how the cluster visor with the HUD cutout now fits.

c61b3c38b659ad954db1b4ea328a23fa.jpg

 

The correct one is on the left. My original on the right.

ea90ee3243a762c31292cb967a434bf2.jpg

 

I think the HUD unit is supposed to sit up flush to the dash trim. I'll have to figure out how to raise it up and support it.

853050c888bd6d99010d3b8e11afa91e.jpg

 

I think that's what's causing it to have the ghost image.

5ac31aef5607697231bcc7d39eed5023.jpg

 

 

 

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Edited by cmatt
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stereojnky Enthusiast

stereojnky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Did the HUD use the same screw holes as the collision detection piece?

What was wrong with it before?

 

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