Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

As requested, I started this thread because the other one for the Denali cluster swap was going off topic.

What we know so far

1) It is possible.

2) Part numbers for HUD and switch

3) Dash and cluster visor are different for suv and truck

4) No wiring harness yet ( that we know of)

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Edited by stereojnky
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

c5b6816a3741d3377929e4473874a073.jpg

Not a great pic, but the Denali visor cutout for the HUD is indeed larger than the collision detection cutout.e72d6c4d459346832327b5940ed2ec78.jpg

03ba4478495f5e2dd5547788997e7c88.jpg

I looked at my truck and a Yukon side by side and it looks like the defroster panel is interchangeable but there's no way to tell for sure without measurements or buying one to try out.

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

post-143606-148996682984_thumb.jpg

post-143606-148996682984_thumb.jpg

post-143606-148996682984_thumb.jpg

post-143606-148996682984_thumb.jpg

Edited by stereojnky
Posted

Good pics. Lot's of obstacles to make this happen on the trucks...the biggest might end up being the wiring to the switch and HUD unit itself. I'm starting to feel more like the visor and defroster panel might work. One of us will just need to go for it..

Posted

Subscribed...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Good pics. Lot's of obstacles to make this happen on the trucks...the biggest might end up being the wiring to the switch and HUD unit itself. I'm starting to feel more like the visor and defroster panel might work. One of us will just need to go for it..

Maybe we can all chip in to buy those parts and if it works whoever the guinea pig, I mean volunteer, is can just give everyone their money back.

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Posted

That's way too much work.

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Posted

Just to add some tidbits so they don't get lost:

 

1. Requires custom programming for factory sierra Denali

2. If not a factory Denali (i.e. Every other c/k truck and SUV) will require Denali cluster swap

With custom programming.

 

We are of course the provider for the programming portion lol

  • Like 3
Posted

Just to add some tidbits so they don't get lost:

 

1. Requires custom programming for factory sierra Denali

2. If not a factory Denali (i.e. Every other c/k truck and SUV) will require Denali cluster swap

With custom programming.

 

We are of course the provider for the programming portion lol

BOOM !! This is awesome !!

 

Ps I send you and email & PM whenever you have time.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I vote we make stereojnky the guinea pig :). Seriously though if someone has a way to look up the part number for the wire harness to the switch and hud unit I'd be in for giving it a try..

  • Like 2
Posted

I vote we make stereojnky the guinea pig :). Seriously though if someone has a way to look up the part number for the wire harness to the switch and hud unit I'd be in for giving it a try..

My parts guy and I did some searching and there's nothing but the I/P harness listed. SUVs with HUD have a different part number for their I/P harness which includes the mini-B USB connections along with the other plugs for the HUD and switch.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Here's the connections and part numbers listed on the Denali cluster, HUD and switch used for my model year Yukon (2015.5).

 

Denali cluster

c0f89dec4966f6b4fd5bfdc91f2e376e.jpg

 

HUD unit

dfbbf1e92f654b786252578baed0b71e.jpg

 

HUD switch

f9ed6b01a41581a59f52b0325152d53f.jpg

 

5547fb68a4c929edd2255ce5458117c6.jpg

 

The switch mounts to the left of the steering wheel in the silver trim below the vent.

de6e799728d4aeebc1f57e587d35539e.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Edited by cmatt
Posted

My parts guy and I did some searching and there's nothing but the I/P harness listed. SUVs with HUD have a different part number for their I/P harness which includes the mini-B USB connections along with the other plugs for the HUD and switch.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

How much was the I/P harness for the hud SUV's?
Posted

Here's some dash pics of my Yukon with forward collision alert and without HUD (for now...)

9edeeb619f555638ffa7301a1f42e9cb.jpg

 

8918df8b2eedfdc097106f75bb994c13.jpg

 

959534bf6e239d3a22432e501e1bb850.jpg

 

538c3246550979d1b034d0bab77ab519.jpg

 

dff236d5ede56176be6c45de76938f27.jpg

 

d26aed0e6b635506ffa2db8b87a548c3.jpg

 

Forward collision unit attached

e116a762078ca7f6091b1734bc7b3610.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...