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Posted

Is the ghost image the reason for a special coated windshield for HUD models? Just a thought. There had to be a reason for a different windshield with HUD.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Did the HUD use the same screw holes as the collision detection piece?

What was wrong with it before?

 

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No. It attaches to the dash support vs. the cluster visor. I just have it laying in there now. Going to work on securing it. As best I can tell, vehicles that came with the option have mounting tabs welded on the metal support bar. Mine has one tab that matches up with a mounting hole. I'll have to look around and see if there are any more.

 

Nothing was wrong with it besides operator error. Go back through my previous post. I edited it to explain what I missed.

 

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Edited by cmatt
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Is the ghost image the reason for a special coated windshield for HUD models? Just a thought. There had to be a reason for a different windshield with HUD.

 

 

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Maybe. It looks worse in the picture. I'll know more after I have time to adjust its mounting. I can say polarized sunglasses make it so you almost can't see it unless the brightness is turned all the way up.

 

 

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Edited by cmatt
Posted

The factory HUD in my Suburban is nearly impossible to see with polarized glasses. I have a pair of non-polarized prescription sunglasses and I can see the HUD perfect with them. I think most higher end cars have polarized windshields in them so I guess no harm to wear non-polarized glasses if you are UV sensitive.

 

 

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Posted

The factory HUD in my Suburban is nearly impossible to see with polarized glasses. I have a pair of non-polarized prescription sunglasses and I can see the HUD perfect with them. I think most higher end cars have polarized windshields in them so I guess no harm to wear non-polarized glasses if you are UV sensitive.

 

 

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Looking through the Yukon Denali owner's manual it mentions polarized sunglasses reduce visibility of the HUD.

 

 

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  • 3 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Just wanted to follow up on this as well, this would be a great mod for the Sierra/Silverado trucks as well. I am getting the parts together for this as well to do on my 2016 Sierra Denali. Currently working on adding on the factory tri-mode articulating power assist steps and after that is done I plan on working more on the HUD mod. I do have the caddy Escalade defroster vent panel so I see how the HUD cutout is and it is very similar to the standard defroster panel on the Sierra (as mentioned the center speaker makes it a mod fit but the panel looks like it was based on the the Sierra version). So mounting the HUD will be the biggest challenge.

 

Also, yes, the ghost image is because of the laminated windshield. HUD glass is really the same as normal windshield glass, they just check for this when they are made and only the ones with the least amout of ghosting become HUD windshields. Not sure of a transparent file (like clear tint) on the HUD display area would help minimize the ghosting affect.

 

Another thing is where to put the HUD switch in the dash. Since I have 4x4 and trailer brake module, there is not really room on the left panel to put this and I don't see any areas that will acccept this switch. Might have to put it on the bottom part of the dash (knee panels) but I will have to consider that more when the time comes.

 

But if anyone has done this successfully in the trucks, I am sure there would be great interest in this mod!

 

Xenawise

  • Like 2
Posted

Just wanted to follow up on this as well, this would be a great mod for the Sierra/Silverado trucks as well. I am getting the parts together for this as well to do on my 2016 Sierra Denali. Currently working on adding on the factory tri-mode articulating power assist steps and after that is done I plan on working more on the HUD mod. I do have the caddy Escalade defroster vent panel so I see how the HUD cutout is and it is very similar to the standard defroster panel on the Sierra (as mentioned the center speaker makes it a mod fit but the panel looks like it was based on the the Sierra version). So mounting the HUD will be the biggest challenge.

 

Also, yes, the ghost image is because of the laminated windshield. HUD glass is really the same as normal windshield glass, they just check for this when they are made and only the ones with the least amout of ghosting become HUD windshields. Not sure of a transparent file (like clear tint) on the HUD display area would help minimize the ghosting affect.

 

Another thing is where to put the HUD switch in the dash. Since I have 4x4 and trailer brake module, there is not really room on the left panel to put this and I don't see any areas that will acccept this switch. Might have to put it on the bottom part of the dash (knee panels) but I will have to consider that more when the time comes.

 

But if anyone has done this successfully in the trucks, I am sure there would be great interest in this mod!

 

Xenawise

Would love some info on the Tri-Mode steps and if you're successful in that retrofit. I stopped looking into this after seeing that a module is needed. I see module, and think programming will be needed.

 

 

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Posted

Would love some info on the Tri-Mode steps and if you're successful in that retrofit. I stopped looking into this after seeing that a module is needed. I see module, and think programming will be needed.

 

 

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I dont' see why you couldn't get them to work with a few relays or wiring up directly to the needed wires.

  • Like 1
Posted

I dont' see why you couldn't get them to work with a few relays or wiring up directly to the needed wires.

Didn't really dig into it too much and would like to have it as OEM. There was a member here who sold this tri-mode steps but was not close enough for me to get them. I've got black OEM boards now and they are fine...

 

I guess once I saw a module, I stopped looking.

 

The last time I went down the path of no return... it cost me $700. [emoji15]. Let's just say a Seat Memory Module, some harnesses, and switches... we're all part of that expedition.

 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

I dont' see why you couldn't get them to work with a few relays or wiring up directly to the needed wires.

 

While you could certainly run the motor directly, the OEM design uses hall-effect sensors to understand where the running board position is, so you would have to design some electronics to read these or use some other method to control the positioning of the running boards. The OEM design also leverages the trucks' low speed data bus for information like door opening/closing and truck speed. I believe that disabling the running boards is also accomplished via the data bus, not to mention that there are status callouts in the DIC/Instrument Cluster which require BCM programming. In my research, it looks like at least the GMC Denali and SLT should already have the BCM programming there, on lesser trims the programming calibrations are different so I am not sure the programming for these running boards would be there (and knowing GM, I would tend to doubt it). GTPPrix might be able to help answer some of those programming questions, and getting a calibration with the RPO BRS support into a truck without the option would be next to impossible since GM techs do not usually know or want to program a module with a calibration from a different VIN than what the truck was assigned. It can be done of course, but there is all the liability issues to contend with.

 

Xenawise

Posted

Any updates on this? @cmatt @stereojnky

It's working great... in my Yukon.

 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

It's working great... in my Yukon.

 

 

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How did you end up mounting the HUD unit in the dash and how is the display on the windshield glass? Is it crisp or does it still have noticeable ghosting? Did you have to fabricate some mounting points for the HUD unit to the dash frame?

 

Regards,

 

Xenawise

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Thought I had responded to this, sorry.

 

There's a bracket on the metal dash support that matches up with one of the holes on the HUD. I used the OEM j-nut and bolt to secure it. It's surprisingly solid. I think the trim panels help hold it.

I wouldn't call the display crisp, but it's not ghosting terribly. Seems to be better at night.

Edited by cmatt

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