Jump to content

A/C Condenser

thewhitestallion
 Share

Recommended Posts

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

Well I figured i would update yall, got my silverado back. Turns out the compressor locked up. Never heard of that one on a 16 but its warrantied..

There may have been an issue with the compressor, because they superseded the original part. I bought the latest version recently.

  • Replies 628
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

thewhitestallion
thewhitestallion

Add me to the troubled condenser list...   About a month ago I was driving to work on a sticky Houston night, about ~75*f or so with probably 80% humidity when I noticed that my A/C was not blowin

Spurshot
Spurshot

Hopefully your ac is working great now?     I don't think I'd join one of these class suits over $1k. GM will settle for a fraction of the class costs and most of that will go to the slimey lawyer

Andy2016
Andy2016

Add me, 2016 Serria Denali 60k no ac, but I moved from Maryland to South Carolina and didnt have the time to get it fixed and we made a few trips now have 67k. I bought used at 53k, had the trans flus

Posted Images

BlackHawkZ71 Enthusiast

BlackHawkZ71

Posted
Posted

There may have been an issue with the compressor, because they superseded the original part. I bought the latest version recently.

i have no idea but I figure the 16 shouldn't have failed unless it was left over from older years?, but she blows ice cold air on low now (56-58*)
Snoringbear Enthusiast

Snoringbear

Posted
Posted

i have no idea but I figure the 16 shouldn't have failed unless it was left over from older years?, but she blows ice cold air on low now (56-58*)

Glad you're happy. But, you should be registering around 40 ~ 42 degrees at a vent. I checked my 15 Silverado after having the condenser replaced and that is what I got with outside temp in 90's. Out of curiosity I checked all four of my cars and got in this range except my wife's BMW which registered 38.

BlackHawkZ71 Enthusiast

BlackHawkZ71

Posted
Posted

Glad you're happy. But, you should be registering around 40 ~ 42 degrees at a vent. I checked my 15 Silverado after having the condenser replaced and that is what I got with outside temp in 90's. Out of curiosity I checked all four of my cars and got in this range except my wife's BMW which registered 38.

ya that was before replacement I forgot to mention that now you have me wanting to try it again..

 

Plus my temp gun could be wrong its a (cheaper model)? It feels colder then 56* on low. With max fan speed.

 

That bmw will freeze you out... be handy here in texas..

Snoringbear Enthusiast

Snoringbear

Posted
Posted

ya that was before replacement I forgot to mention that now you have me wanting to try it again..

Plus my temp gun could be wrong its a (cheaper model)? It feels colder then 56* on low. With max fan speed.

That bmw will freeze you out... be handy here in texas..

I'm using a gauge that I bought at Autozone. It looks much like a temp gauge used for cooking a roast and such. If your reading temp after it comes out of the vent that may be the problem. My gauge has rod that is slid through the vent about 3" inside. Btw, I live in Texas as well, DFW area. No such thing as too cold ac here in Texas, lol :)

BlackHawkZ71 Enthusiast

BlackHawkZ71

Posted
Posted

I'm using a gauge that I bought at Autozone. It looks much like a temp gauge used for cooking a roast and such. If your reading temp after it comes out of the vent that may be the problem. My gauge has rod that is slid through the vent about 3" inside. Btw, I live in Texas as well, DFW area. No such thing as too cold ac here in Texas, lol :)

i am going to have to try that. One of these days.
tnchevy Senior Enthusiast

tnchevy

Posted
Posted

I was curious about my AC since my truck is just about to go out of warranty. I also have a temp gauge that I can stick into the vents. I tested my truck, my work truck, and my jeep during the same 95 degree and 90% humidity weather a few weeks ago. I got around 48 degrees out of all three vehicles with this test. I was hoping for something worse in my truck so I could get if fixed while under warranty but I guess I'll be giving up $1k or more down the road to get if fixed when it does go out.

GhostTX Enthusiast

GhostTX

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well, appears GM has a new problem; heard on the news last night that GM has a recall out on 2014 Silverados and Sierras for electronic power steering failures. Said the fix is a reprogram. I know, I'm off-topic but thought I'd share anyway .

I scheduled my service for this, and 2 days later my AC stops blowing cold. Took it in this morning and its the condenser!!! 2014 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 with 42K miles. Just out of warranty. $1200 bill to replace the condenser and hose.

 

Out of the $950 it cost me to replace my condenser at the dealer, GM paid all but $400 for my out of warrantied 2014. I reached out to them via chatting on the GM website. They called me back and worked out a deal with my dealership. Dealer and rep from GM recommended that I keep my receipts for a refund of what I paid if they do a recall.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

How'd you manage this? Just a general complaint?

Edited by GhostTX
GhostTX Enthusiast

GhostTX

Posted
Posted (edited)

So this just popped up on my Facebook feed - https://chimicles.com/chevrolet-silverado-air-conditioning-defect-potential-class-action/

 

Class action for defective AC.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm in, if GM doesn't address this.

 

 

 

You got your use out of the truck AC system through the warranty period. Now the warranty is up. You wouldn't expect a manufacturer to warranty a design flaw in a computer once it's past its warranty. Same with the truck.

 

I would go with the aftermarket condenser instead of waiting. The mechanic is generalizing. He has no way to know.

This is a design flaw causing a shorter than normal lifespan on the part. Dare I say planned obsolescence. This isn't because of long life deterioration, this is piss poor engineering. I've owned NO other vehicle where I've had a cracked condenser. Especially one that's barely 2 years old and driven normally (just city/highway).

 

My other vehicle is 12 years old, and the AC still blows cold, with no recharges!

Edited by GhostTX
ImTravis Enthusiast

ImTravis

Posted
Posted

I scheduled my service for this, and 2 days later my AC stops blowing cold. Took it in this morning and its the condenser!!! 2014 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 with 42K miles. Just out of warranty. $1200 bill to replace the condenser and hose.

 

How'd you manage this? Just a general complaint?

I went on GMs website and chose contact us. Used webchat to explain the issue and that I've read that GM has assisted those out of warranty on partial costs. They called me later and I explained about what I've read and my issue. They reached out to my dealer and worked with them.

 

Good luck

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GhostTX Enthusiast

GhostTX

Posted
Posted (edited)

I went on GMs website and chose contact us. Used webchat to explain the issue and that I've read that GM has assisted those out of warranty on partial costs. They called me later and I explained about what I've read and my issue. They reached out to my dealer and worked with them.

 

Good luck

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. I did just this, and the chat person gave me a case number and said CEM (Customer Experience Manager) would contact me in a day or two. "She" also said to mention that I had this chat with Chevy when I go to the dealership to pick up my truck from the repair. Here's to hoping they cover some of the costs.

Edited by GhostTX
  • Like 1
ImTravis Enthusiast

ImTravis

Posted
Posted

Thanks. I did just this, and the chat person gave me a case number and said CEM (Customer Experience Manager) would contact me in a day or two. "She" also said to mention that I had this chat with Chevy when I go to the dealership to pick up my truck from the repair. Here's to hoping they cover some of the costs.

Good Luck, let us know how it goes.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Back in a Bowtie Enthusiast

Back in a Bowtie

Posted
Posted

UPDATE: Truck is at dealership now. I spoke to service manager, and he started at $1100 for condenser and labor. I told him i spoke to GM corporate about it and was looking for relief he said "let me check, they have a calculator" and said ok $700. I am still waiting to hear back from my contact at GM executive office as well as a chat with chevy customer service right now. Feel like they should really make good here. We will see.

  • Like 1
Back in a Bowtie Enthusiast

Back in a Bowtie

Posted
Posted

UPDATE 2: $700 final price to me is the best they can do. Looks like it better than most people are getting but im not exactly happy with it. Getting it done in hopes that GM issues a recall at some point and then i can get reimbursed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Gilkey96
    Newest Member
    Gilkey96
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 874 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • garagerog
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By garagerog · Posted

      Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Gilkey96
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By Gilkey96 · Posted

      Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • MORSNO
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...