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Posted

@Frankielozano214Oh no their refunds/returns suck massive donger that is definitely true. I think I've only had one warranty experience but I cannot remember what it was or how it went.

 

The problem is that parts store prices are double or triple that of RockAuto. The only reason I go to O'Reilly anymore is to get some stuff I need that day, like vacuum plugs etc.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Yep, then half the time the hardware that is supposed to come with the part is either missing or wrong ... so if you can't mickey-rig it, you've got to send the whole thing back. HUGE PITA.

 

I recently had a Toyota in here, I think it was the 3.3 V6 in a '04 Highlander  - the tensioner in a timing belt kit was totally wrong. Thankfully I was able to reuse part of the old assembly and just transfer the pully / bearing over to it. Then other times stuff is misboxed - one time I got a Moog box, but the part inside clearly was NOT a Moog part! Had to send that back, wait an eternity for the correct part to come back ...

 

Lately they've been using DHL as a shipper when they used to exclusively either use USPS or FedEx. DHL SUCKS! Worst shipping service there is as far as timely deliveries go. I ordered a pair of OE GM o2 sensors last week for a Tahoe I've got here. TX to MA used to take 3 days. Coming up on a week and they're STILL not here yet! WTF. They piss me off. 

 

You get what you pay for ...

Edited by Jsdirt
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I recently bought a bunch of stuff from Rock.  I guess I'd forgotten about the shipping issues I had in the past.  One part left AZ and went to NY, then back to me in CA.  It was damaged and had to be returned.  The replacement part was missing special hardware.  

  • Like 1
  • Sad 2
Posted

Sounds familiar!! 

  • Haha 2
  • 9 months later...
Posted (edited)

Add me to the list. 2016 GMC 3500HD with 112,000km. (have actually had no AC for a few years so I might have lost it as long as 40,000 to 50,000km ago - just kept refilling it beginning of each summer only to have it run hot by end of summer).

 

I've been told by independent shop (which has a very good reputation over the past 20 years) that I need to replace all 3 lines plus condensor.

 

with labour and taxes they want $3,000!!  They quoted me $1,200 for the 3 lines ( suction, liquid and discharge lines) which retail for about $400 on gm-parts.ca - what am I missing?

 

It's also 2-3 weeks to get parts out of USA... 

 

should I just go to the dealer at these prices?

 

EDIT: comment about when problem actually started

Edited by eurobound
Posted (edited)

DO NOT go to the dealer!!!! That is, unless you want the whole system replaced for, just a guess, probably $8,000. You need to find another shop. That's a RIPOFF for parts only. For the whole job, it's a high down here in the states, but in Canada that might be just borderline high.

 

The dealer is no place for a '16 to be. Only time a dealer ever touched my vehicle was under warranty ... and they screwed that up royally! They found every opportunity to deceive me, and weasel out of warranty claims. They smashed my truck up on one occasion, too, from bumper to bumper along the passenger side!

 

Corporate pay scales encourage speed over being thorough, plus parts and labor costs are usually 50-150% higher than most shops. GM not only screws you, the consumer, but screws their techs just as badly, if not worse. I realize there are good and bad among ALL shops, but that said, the overwhelming majority of GM dealers will make you pull your hair out as you go broke. Your odds are MUCH better at an independent shop. Just do your research - talk to people, Google the name, read reviews, etc..

 

There is no reason to replace lines UNLESS they are damaged and/or leaking. On a case such as this, first thing I would do is see if the compressor is able to "compress".  If that checks out, I would inspect the system for contamination. If it's clean, I'd replace the accumulator, orifice tube, and condenser and call it a day. Last one I did I charged LESS than $700 USD for parts AND labor.

 

If the compressor is junk, and/or grenaded and sent shrapnel through the entire system, now $1,200 is sounding reasonable. That's (grenaded compressor) the worst-case scenario as far as money goes.

Edited by Jsdirt
  • 4 months later...
Posted

I replaced the condenser in my 15 in about 2017 or so.   I was just out of warranty by miles.   GM dealer was going to get me some assistance, but it was July, on a Friday, and it wouldn't be done until the next Tuesday or Wednesday. 

So I got one from Autozone on the way home, put it in myself that evening.  About an hour.  

Took it to one of my dealerships I do work for, (I'm a vendor for many dealers around here) and had it charged by one of the techs next morning, been working ever since.   Lasted a lot longer than the factory one, for sure. 

  • Like 1
  • 11 months later...
  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

Add me to the list of leaking condensers, 1st 80 day in South Carolina and no A/C. Took it to a shop and they said it had a slow leak, with dye it was leaking right from a weld on the condenser. I need a new one, called GM, was told there is no issues on a 2016 so no help there. I ordered a GM P/N 19383805 and a couple of seals. Guess I will tear into it when I get it.☹️

 

Truck is a 2016 Silverado LT Z71 with 75,030 miles

condenser.webp

Edited by tjrado
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/16/2025 at 1:53 PM, tjrado said:

Add me to the list of leaking condensers, 1st 80 day in South Carolina and no A/C. Took it to a shop and they said it had a slow leak, with dye it was leaking right from a weld on the condenser. I need a new one, called GM, was told there is no issues on a 2016 so no help there. I ordered a GM P/N 19383805 and a couple of seals. Guess I will tear into it when I get it.☹️

 

Truck is a 2016 Silverado LT Z71 with 75,030 miles

There fix was putting a piece of foil tape on the top corner where they were all failing. So far mine has held but i wonder for how long, i can't imagine that piece of foil dissipates enough heat so the new one doesn't fail also.

Posted (edited)
On 3/27/2025 at 1:30 PM, BIGDOGx said:

There fix was putting a piece of foil tape on the top corner where they were all failing. So far mine has held but i wonder for how long, i can't imagine that piece of foil dissipates enough heat so the new one doesn't fail also.

The swap was good, had it leak checked and serviced, I have cold air coming from the vents again. What a pain in the a$$ to change out this condenser though. I wanted mine fixed right.

Edited by tjrado
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
On 3/27/2025 at 1:30 PM, BIGDOGx said:

There fix was putting a piece of foil tape on the top corner where they were all failing. So far mine has held but i wonder for how long, i can't imagine that piece of foil dissipates enough heat so the new one doesn't fail also.

It's not heat, and it's not abrasion causing these failures. It's the cheap ****** metals GM is using.

 

The failures I've seen have been right in the heat exchanger portion of the condenser, down in the lower left corner (your right hand side when facing the condenser from the front). Nothing touches that (or even comes close), and no A/C system on the planet gets hot enough to distort aluminum.

 

With aluminum having a melting point of roughly 1,200°F, it would take some SERIOUS heat to get one to fail thermally. At those temperatures you'd have an explosion from the sky high R134A  pressures.

Edited by Jsdirt
  • 10 months later...
Posted

Since Condenser replacement Ive had no issue with that, now its the transmission, strut and shock issues and electrical issues. I only have 80K on it and barely drive it. 

Posted

Welcome to 21st century GM quality.

 

Crappy part is, go buy another brand and you'll have  the same issues. It's like they all had a big meeting and decided that NOBODY was allowed to produce a reliable vehicle anymore. What a sad state of affairs. Just when you think it can't get any worse, it DOES ...

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