Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

currently have a '14 LT crew cab with the 4.3.  (backstory)back in January, a tree fell onto my right headlight/hood area. it mashed down the area a bit, and popped the grille out a little. still drove it for a week until insurance had did their part and the dealership ordered the parts.

 

fast forward a month or so later after the repair, I start up my truck.. feels a little sluggish and a little vibration pops up. I hear a squeal noise and go a half mile more and park it. I smell something burning but see nothing and no warnings come up. I then drive onto work.. no smell, no vibration, no sluggishness.

 

fast forward again to first week of may. no a/c. thought it may be out of coolant, so I buy some ac pro and go to hook it up...then I see the ac belt is broke and melted a little-how it hasn't fallen out of the compartment, I don't know. so I google the part, buy one at autozone.. turns out to be too long than the original belt, get one from napa, still longer than the belt but far too tight to put it on by myself-it calls for stretch fit belts. then go back to autozone and buy a shorter belt.. it fits, but it could be tighter. anyway, I see the clutch is spinning and all that, so I thought 'cool, I should have a/c in 5 minutes!'... wrong. no ac. so then I get the can of ac pro, hook it up.. no cool air. I followed the directions, read the system pressure and have none. I put the gas into the system-it briefly charges, but immediately drops out. so I have a leak somewhere, whether it be in a hose or line, or the condenser, or somewhere else.

 

I can do some minor mechanical work, but I was looking to trade this truck in soon anyway. i'm not spending a bunch of money on something that i'm not going to have much longer, HOWEVER, it's june. i'm stuck as to either attempt to fix it myself and get over my head, take to a shop and get screwed in price, or leave it and take the hit in trade in value.

Posted

i have read through all these pages and have not seen anyone replacing the amount of oil you lose when you change the condenser. i have worked on automotive a/c for 40 years and have learnt the hard way. you should be pouring the oil out of the condenser and replacing the same amount with fresh oil. it is recommended to add 2 oz's of oil when replacing the condenser. it will save your compressor. read the post from tbarn 

 

Posted

Anyone source one of these that were actually black in color like the factory original unit. I have seen several online that show as black but end up being raw aluminum when I go to pick it up. Makes me nervous to order online, and potentially have the same issue. Are the OEM GM parts still black in color? Also, what is the latest part number for one of those units?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

2015 Sierra with 74k miles just had the same issue. Dealer quoted $1300 for repair and gave me part number 84621302. Is that the correct part? Lots of strange information online as to if that part has been replaced or it replaced the original part.

2 friends of mine had the same issue with a 2015 and 2016.

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk

Posted

Well, add me this debacle!

2014 Sierra w/ 106k mi - original owner

Just completed the DIY route. Total cost was about $150 and about 5 hrs of labor (1.5hr of that was vacuuming system and holding). I took my time watching the video posted and following step by step.

Some observations in my journey;

Went through two condensers, first one was bent. Luckily Amazon offers easy returns. Like many I received a silver/bare color but installed anyway- Honestly can't tell much difference.

Take note to your elevation, this may be a reason why you cannot obtain a 30inhg (500microns) vacuum. I am at about 2650ft above sea level and could only hit 28inhg. Unless it was my cheap harbor freight gauges/pump... Most importantly it held.

Be very careful when tightening down Hi/Lo lines, you can easily overtighten.

Add about 2 ounces of Dexron VI tranny fluid actually inside upper cooler before installing

On a 1500, 0.6kg of coolant is needed. Translates to 21.1 ounces, or almost two (12) ounce cans.

I couldn't figure out an easy way to add PAG46 oil, after vacuum, so it might be wise to add first. Someone may chime in on this.



Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk

Posted
On 7/2/2020 at 3:05 PM, Timmy Gil said:

I just fell victim as well with just over 49,000 miles. Has anyone tried welding theirs?

Well, the way I see it you’ve got nothing to lose except some time if the weld doesn’t hold.  I would recommend though, being the material is thin that you try brazing.  And, be careful you don’t burn up the metal you’re brazing or welding.   Btw, I’m no expert, my experience is limited to welding and brazing farm equipment on my grandfathers farm which was heavy duty stuff and pretty forgiving to amateurs.  ?

Posted
11 hours ago, Snoringbear said:

Well, the way I see it you’ve got nothing to lose except some time if the weld doesn’t hold.  I would recommend though, being the material is thin that you try brazing.  And, be careful you don’t burn up the metal you’re brazing or welding.   Btw, I’m no expert, my experience is limited to welding and brazing farm equipment on my grandfathers farm which was heavy duty stuff and pretty forgiving to amateurs.  ?H

Posted (edited)

2017 and my warranty is up in august. Anybody try using a pry bar and gently prying it to make the weld pop. it would be a way to see if its weak.

Edited by benelli
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/24/2019 at 5:06 PM, carnau said:

You can literally do this job yourself, under an hour for less than $300. I could understand if GM had this huge engine related failure where the truck was a complete loss unless you had extensive Mechanical knowledge. But it's not. You could literally do it with your girls box of tools. Lol. Also, It's the air conditioning. Nothing that's going to prevent the vehicle from running.

 

$300 and one year of middle school shop class and you can do this job. And $300 is expensive.

$120 condenser - https://amzn.to/2K10zH0

Ac System service to charge system to 1.32lbs - $75 - $100

$100 to buy any tools you don't have.

1 hour of your time.

And watch this video.

 

So I'm the latest victim of crappy condenser.

I have a 2015 Sierra with 53000 miles on it and weld in the upper right corner where my condenser was leaking from.

Thanks to carnau's video and instructions, I was able to do it myself in about two hours plus time to vacuum and charge. 

 

Thanks Carnau!

Posted
On 7/26/2020 at 4:22 PM, irish4life8911 said:

So I'm the latest victim of crappy condenser.

I have a 2015 Sierra with 53000 miles on it and weld in the upper right corner where my condenser was leaking from.

Thanks to carnau's video and instructions, I was able to do it myself in about two hours plus time to vacuum and charge. 

 

Thanks Carnau!

Great! I am glad it helped.

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Looks like I'm about to have to do it on my 18 Silverado!  Unfortunately mine has the 1234yf coolant, which is much more expensive.  Has anyone done it with this one?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Yep, I got bit by the Condenser just yesterday, have an appointment Monday for the dealer to replace it.....$374+ tax, I believe thru GM Goodwill, otherise they quoted $1,200....doesn't hurt to ask for a little help, especially when you have a good rapport with the dealership. 2015 GMC Sierra 61k on the clock

Edited by Beer Belly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 596 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...