Help replacing Ball Joints ??? Aluminum control arms vs. Steel control arms

[triple-tap]

Hello all,

 

Long time reader, but just registered as I can't seem to find the answer to this questions. 

 

I have a 2014 Silverado Crew Cab (short box) 4x4.  The truck has aluminum upper and lower control arms.  I need to put new new ball joints on the truck, and I am having trouble determining which parts are going to fit / work best for this repair.

 

I know that the upper control arms come as a complete unit with the new ball joint.  However, I am starting to think that the aluminum lower control arms are going to require a complete replacement as well (as opposed to just pressing out the ball joint and pressing in the new one).  Can someone confirm that this is the case?

 

No one has the Aluminum upper control arms in stock, and I am wondering if I will run into problems simply replacing the aluminum control arms (upper and lower) with steel control arms?  

 

The truck has a 3" front leveling kit that was on the truck when I purchased it.  I suspect that ball joints will likely need to be replaced every few years, and I don't really want to have to replace an entire lower control arm every time this happens.  However, I don't know if there is a benefit to keeping the aluminum control arms?  Will this cause any other issues with the truck's suspension, etc.???

 

 

[triple-tap]

P.S. - I do see that Advance Auto Zone has a Moog Lower Ball Joint specifically noted to fit "Aluminum Arms" -  Does this mean that it is possible to replace the lower ball joint on my aluminum control arm with a normal Ball Joint press?  Will I need some type of special press to handle this  without deforming the control arm itself?  Moog Part ##K500245

 

[newdude]

The lowers are different steel vs. aluminum.  The uppers, GM has replaced the aluminums with the stamped steel ones as a replacement arm. 

[triple-tap]

Thanks for the response.  I am aware that the lowers are different.  I am just trying to determine if I need to replace the ENTIRE lower control arm  -OR-  if I can replace just the ball joint (and press out the old lower ball joint).  I just dont want to deform the lower control arm or have any safety issues because it is an aluminum arm.

 

Regarding the uppers, are you stating that it isn't going to cause any issues to replace the upper aluminum control arms (currently on my truck) with the stamped steel ones?  Is this true EVEN if I can keep the aluminum lower control arms?

[Spurshot]

Pressing out a ball joint from aluminum arms is no different than steel arms.  The A-arm should be supported as close to the ball joint as possible, all the way around and square-level.  You can heat the aluminum to 300F if you want to make it easy to remove/install.  No more than 300F .  A hair dryer will work. Aluminum grows/shrinks at a much higher rate than steel ball joints. 

 

You should consider using using an aftermarket upper arm with a modified ball joint angle to accommodate your 3” level.  The stock ball joints bang against the limit of their angular movement at full suspension extension when an aftermarket spacer is installed or if shocks have longer travel than stock.  The banging beats out the formed socket of the ball joints and loosens them.

[triple-tap]

Awesome. Thanks for the help on this.

 

Can you recommend the control arms to use?  I don’t really know what brand the spacers are on the truck, but they are on the top of the strut (it appears the prior owner had to cut the strut bolts down to fit the leveling spacer).

 

Id like to keep it somewhat reasonable in price as I wasn’t expecting this repair right now. I’ll look at a complete lift kit in about a year or so, but I am trying to keep the cost down for now. 

 

Wheels are 17x9 Fuel Beast wrapped in NITTO grappler g2’s (285/70r17) in case that matters. 

[newdude]

2 hours ago, triple-tap said:

Thanks for the response.  I am aware that the lowers are different.  I am just trying to determine if I need to replace the ENTIRE lower control arm  -OR-  if I can replace just the ball joint (and press out the old lower ball joint).  I just dont want to deform the lower control arm or have any safety issues because it is an aluminum arm.

 

Regarding the uppers, are you stating that it isn't going to cause any issues to replace the upper aluminum control arms (currently on my truck) with the stamped steel ones?  Is this true EVEN if I can keep the aluminum lower control arms?

Sorry I thought I mentioned it in my other post LOL.  The joints are removable both lower arm designs.  No need to change the whole arm.

 

No issues.  Upper joints aren't replaceable from GM, just the whole arm.  If you have aluminums, they no longer make those, only the stamped steel ones.  Also, if you are going the GM replacement route (aluminum to stamped steel) you need new front brake hoses. 

[triple-tap]

11 minutes ago, newdude said:

Sorry I thought I mentioned it in my other post LOL.  The joints are removable both lower arm designs.  No need to change the whole arm.

 

No issues.  Upper joints aren't replaceable from GM, just the whole arm.  If you have aluminums, they no longer make those, only the stamped steel ones.  Also, if you are going the GM replacement route (aluminum to stamped steel) you need new front brake hoses. 

Will I need to replace the brake hoses if I opt for aftermarket control arms better suited for the level kit?

[Spurshot]

50 minutes ago, triple-tap said:

Will I need to replace the brake hoses if I opt for aftermarket control arms better suited for the level kit?

Good question.  I would say, most likely not.  But I suppose it somewhat depends on what the full extension of your shock allows more than the shape of the A-arm.  I have tried the Rough Country A-arms a few years ago and sent them back.  They weren't shaped right to clear the frame attachment and allow for full camber/caster adjustment.  They may have changed their design, but I don't know.  My Cognito A-arms also rub on my frame, at the attach area when approaching full extension.  I had to trim the frame flanges back a bit and should have trimmed more.  Possibly, there are better choices.  The picture below is from Total Chaos and shows the flange area I'm describing, especially the inboard flanges of both attachment areas.  You could see how an A-arm that doesn't have enough clearance in that area could rub if the flange isn't trimmed back or the A-arm curves in more than stock.  That "line" across the top of the A-arm is the anti-skid sensor wire.   brands of A-arms I can recall Cognito, camburg, zone, icon

[triple-tap]

7 minutes ago, roaniecowpony said:

Good question.  I would say, most likely not.  But I suppose it somewhat depends on what the full extension of your shock allows more than the shape of the A-arm.  I have tried the Rough Country A-arms a few years ago and sent them back.  They weren't shaped right to clear the frame attachment and allow for full camber/caster adjustment.  They may have changed their design, but I don't know.  My Cognito A-arms also rub on my frame, at the attach area when approaching full extension.  I had to trim the frame flanges back a bit and should have trimmed more.  Possibly, there are better choices.

Good to know. It looks like you have a pretty significant rig on your truck. Do you believe the cognito arms or the rough country arms may have worked on a stock strut (I believe the Rancho stuff) with just a top spacer for the level?

[newdude]

55 minutes ago, triple-tap said:

Will I need to replace the brake hoses if I opt for aftermarket control arms better suited for the level kit?

 

Possibly not. 

[Spurshot]

1 hour ago, triple-tap said:

Good to know. It looks like you have a pretty significant rig on your truck. ...

That was not my truck.  It was a web picture. 

 

This is my truck

 

[Spurshot]

1 hour ago, triple-tap said:

...  Do you believe the cognito arms or the rough country arms may have worked on a stock strut (I believe the Rancho stuff) with just a top spacer for the level?

For what I know about what Rough Country sent, I would say the A-arms they sent me would have interference regardless of what type of level or stock setup.  Hopefully they changed their design.  I don't know. 

 

The Cognito arms had similar interference, but not near as bad.  My Cognitos still rub when the suspension is under compression.

[triple-tap]

10 hours ago, roaniecowpony said:

Pressing out a ball joint from aluminum arms is no different than steel arms.  The A-arm should be supported as close to the ball joint as possible, all the way around and square-level.  You can heat the aluminum to 300F if you want to make it easy to remove/install.  No more than 300F .  A hair dryer will work. Aluminum grows/shrinks at a much higher rate than steel ball joints. 

 

You should consider using using an aftermarket upper arm with a modified ball joint angle to accommodate your 3” level.  The stock ball joints bang against the limit of their angular movement at full suspension extension when an aftermarket spacer is installed or if shocks have longer travel than stock.  The banging beats out the formed socket of the ball joints and loosens them.

 

So I have been looking at some alternatives for the upper control arms, and I came across this article:

 

https://www.readylift.com/blog/2017/07/11/upper-control-arms/

 

It essentially says that aftermarket UCA’s are needed for lift/level kits BUT the stock aluminum kits are good because they don’t have an issue.  Should I just suck it up and order the aluminum UCA’s for now and replace the upper control arms when I install a bigger lift in 1.5-2 yrs?

[jgutierrez89]

@triple-tap just a bit of advice, if i were you. I would start by getting rid of that 3in leveling kit otherwise you'll be going thru ball joints and cv's due to the angles. I'm sure the ride probably isn't the best either since the control arm is sitting on the service perch(droop stop) with that size of level.