Jump to content

Any issues with levels OTHER than Rough Country?


Arkangel

Recommended Posts

Posted

We have removed three level kits at my shop due to popping in the front steering.  Two of the trucks ended up with replacement steering racks from the dealer (warranty).  One quit popping after the level kit was removed and it was out of warranty anyway.  Last week I had a low mileage '17 Silverado with a level kit and stamped steel control arms come in with a popped out ball joint.  These are all exceptions, but I've seen enough to have an opinion of the risk.  The steering popping is annoying.  The ball joint coming out of a stamped control arm is down right dangerous.  I would not run any level kit with stamped arms after seeing this.   

IMG_5603.JPG

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
45 minutes ago, Leevon said:

We have removed three level kits at my shop due to popping in the front steering.  Two of the trucks ended up with replacement steering racks from the dealer (warranty).  One quit popping after the level kit was removed and it was out of warranty anyway.  Last week I had a low mileage '17 Silverado with a level kit and stamped steel control arms come in with a popped out ball joint.  These are all exceptions, but I've seen enough to have an opinion of the risk.  The steering popping is annoying.  The ball joint coming out of a stamped control arm is down right dangerous.  I would not run any level kit with stamped arms after seeing this.   

IMG_5603.JPG

What size leveling kits?

Posted

The stamped arms are quite frankly junk and can’t handle much other than stock angles. The cast steel and aluminum arms are much more robust, by far the most issues you hear in the forum is from somebody with stamped arms running a 2.5 level. 2 inches is pushing it on those arms, that’s why rough country came out with the different 2.5 kit for them and now their 3.5 kit (which is not a great kit) comes with a knuckle because these arms are too delicate.

 

Youll most likely be fine with a 2-2.5 kit of any kind unless you have stamped arms.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Posted
12 hours ago, Leevon said:

We have removed three level kits at my shop due to popping in the front steering.  Two of the trucks ended up with replacement steering racks from the dealer (warranty).  One quit popping after the level kit was removed and it was out of warranty anyway.  Last week I had a low mileage '17 Silverado with a level kit and stamped steel control arms come in with a popped out ball joint.  These are all exceptions, but I've seen enough to have an opinion of the risk.  The steering popping is annoying.  The ball joint coming out of a stamped control arm is down right dangerous.  I would not run any level kit with stamped arms after seeing this.   

IMG_5603.JPG

What is causing failure of the steering rack?

Posted
On 2/28/2018 at 10:59 AM, TRG said:

What size leveling kits?

2.5" and 3"

16 hours ago, Arkangel said:

What is causing failure of the steering rack?

I really don't know, my best guess was increased inner tie rod angle.  There is a service bulletin on this issue, have not read it in awhile though.  The dealership service adviser in both cases knew about the level kit and asked the customer to remove it so he could help them with warranty.   It's happening with non-leveled vehicles as well but both of ours happened after the level.  There is a like a "catch" or "hitch" that makes a popping noise and feel when turning one direction.  You can see the "pop" happen in the tie rod/rack.   There is another issue with the steering column lower bearing assembly as well, it is literally coming out of place and making a dangerous catch/pop when turning.   BIL's 2015 Tahoe just had it fixed for the second time, unrelated to a level kit though.  

Posted
3 minutes ago, Leevon said:

2.5" and 3"

I really don't know, my best guess was increased inner tie rod angle.  There is a service bulletin on this issue, have not read it in awhile though.  The dealership service adviser in both cases knew about the level kit and asked the customer to remove it so he could help them with warranty.   It's happening with non-leveled vehicles as well but both of ours happened after the level.  There is a like a "catch" or "hitch" that makes a popping noise and feel when turning one direction.  You can see the "pop" happen in the tie rod/rack.   There is another issue with the steering column lower bearing assembly as well, it is literally coming out of place and making a dangerous catch/pop when turning.   BIL's 2015 Tahoe just had it fixed for the second time, unrelated to a level kit though.  

 

What year are the trucks? Ive read alot about the 14’s having that problem. Damn im leaning more and more towards not doing this and just lifting it 4” when the warranty is up

Posted

2015's and one 2014.  I wouldn't really worry, lots of folks running around fine with levels, just sharing the other side (rare).  Just don't level with stamped arms, the risk is understated by vendors IMO

Posted
30 minutes ago, Leevon said:

2015's and one 2014.  I wouldn't really worry, lots of folks running around fine with levels, just sharing the other side (rare).  Just don't level with stamped arms, the risk is understated by vendors IMO

Mine does have the stamped arms. Cognito being the cheapest at 540, plus the spacer kit and maybe bilsteins if it rides like shit with the ranchos, im prob better off saving the money for a BDS. Wife wouldt be happy for making it tougher for her and my young kids to get in with a 4” plus lift

Posted
We have removed three level kits at my shop due to popping in the front steering.  Two of the trucks ended up with replacement steering racks from the dealer (warranty).  One quit popping after the level kit was removed and it was out of warranty anyway.  Last week I had a low mileage '17 Silverado with a level kit and stamped steel control arms come in with a popped out ball joint.  These are all exceptions, but I've seen enough to have an opinion of the risk.  The steering popping is annoying.  The ball joint coming out of a stamped control arm is down right dangerous.  I would not run any level kit with stamped arms after seeing this.   
IMG_5603.JPG.cc7904f899f47291469c4c5865396a80.JPG

I also had the same issue on my 2014. 25k miles on the truck. About 15k on the level. Had Tj have the steering rack replaced. I won’t be leveling my 2018 cause of it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted

Thanks for the info.  I have an 18 Z71 with the stamped arms and want to do a 2” level, but likely won’t do it now without replacing the stamped arms. 

Posted

So tell a non-mechanic how to tell if I have stamped UCAs.   I am (was?) about to put a 1.5-2” level on my ‘18.  Thanks in advance.  

Posted
40 minutes ago, Boardmember said:

So tell a non-mechanic how to tell if I have stamped UCAs.   I am (was?) about to put a 1.5-2” level on my ‘18.  Thanks in advance.  

 

6B73F9FC-A58D-4F7A-9B07-D5479AA54871.jpeg

Posted

For those of us who dont plan to do

much if any off-road, RC has no ETA for control arms for the Stamped Steel folk. I havent found anything cheaper than Cognito $540

Posted
For those of us who dont plan to do
much if any off-road, RC has no ETA for control arms for the Stamped Steel folk. I havent found anything cheaper than Cognito $540


Have you tried moog?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...