Jump to content

Engine Bay Under hood lights


Tleesmith14

Recommended Posts

Posted

Mine are on a manual switch

20161112_122922

 

Posted

I used left over18”  LED tubes from my under cabinet lights, wired the directly to battery using a mercury switch that I used 3M double sided tape and shimmed  the switch to the underside of my hood. Has worked for the last Year with no problems. They are on my 2015 Sierra SLT Crew Cab. The LED’s are from inspired led  

Posted
On 3/7/2018 at 6:51 PM, krzyd said:

Mine are on a manual switch

20161112_122922

 

what lights are those?

Posted
On 3/6/2018 at 8:20 PM, Dub1796 said:

Mercury tilt switch. Hood opens, lights turn on

AU-46_mercury_56f4eea8-471b-4209-ba4f-35deed046b7f_600x.jpg

Where did you get it?  Part Number?

Posted
23 hours ago, Mike1220 said:

what lights are those?

I dont remember, they were like 10 bucks on amazon

 

Posted
On 3/16/2018 at 9:37 AM, krzyd said:

I dont remember, they were like 10 bucks on amazon

 

how bright are they? Debating on using a series of these or the rock lights that the OP used around the truck for light when camping. Also under the hood when working on something at night. 

Posted
37 minutes ago, Mike1220 said:

how bright are they? Debating on using a series of these or the rock lights that the OP used around the truck for light when camping. Also under the hood when working on something at night. 

They are pretty bright, I'll get some night shots once the supercharger is installed.

 

  • 11 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 3/4/2018 at 6:21 PM, Tleesmith14 said:

So ended up finding a thread about this on another forum trying to use the hood latch like I wanted. But after reading further into it seemed ppl were blowing their bcm by doing it so I ended up going a direct route.  I installed a hood plunger style switch but also added a push button switch into the ground as well. This way if the hood needs to be open during the day for long time you can just pressure the switch and turn them off also this way no need for a relay since I am only breaking the ground and not having the hot 12v constantly going through the actually switch.  Still have an in-line 7.5 amp fuse off the battery.  Ended up being way brighter than I was going for but what the hell lol. 364996A4-7B17-4DD5-95B7-FCB51D28902B.thumb.jpeg.260589400b495199dcdf4f46be979ef3.jpeg

Do you have the link to that other thread you found? Trying to get this going on my 15'

Posted

If you are still looking for ideas what I have though of is a Under hood light kit from a C5 Corvette. Under Hood Lamp - GM (10303617) I believe the switch for it is built into the light if I remember. 

 

Not Led but would be very easy to wire in.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I just can't think of the exact term GM uses for that higher gvw package without looking at the website but basically sort of a trailering package and I imagine it may also have been created to skirt around the licensing fee differences between a3/4 and 1 ton that apply in some states although ironically I believe in some states its the reverse that a 1 ton is the cheaper truck to license over a 3/4 ton. It makes no difference here in Alberta but oddly enough a 1 ton through my insurance company is a bit cheaper to insure over a 3/4 ton as its based on the insurance statistics they generate.    For sure when ever you do have the chance to weigh your truck and to be fair, try to have the fuel tank full or nearly so rather than give yourself a false sense of the truck being lighter by having an almost empty tank.    In my other comment I was mentioning stock sized tires and partly in case someone was reading this and thinking they could lower their pressure down to what your aftermarket tires are able to do with your empty truck as that is a vastly different picture in the leeway you have to play with for running minimum pressures while remaining safe. I will say also that its easy to see from reactions of truck owners that may have been more used to owning a half ton in the past or a car and be it on a forum like this or in person etc that they get so wrapped up in that placard pressure sticker that they can't get their head wrapped around the fact that an HD truck due to how much it can carry can also vary the tire pressures drastically lower than those pressures ( typically more so for the rear axle on stock sized tires ) when empty vs some car that isn't made to carry much so the tire pressures can't be lowered since it needs almost that much pressure just to carry the empty car.    If I ever do find myself in the states with this truck, I will only be too happy to switch it over to the US measuring system as then I will understand all the dash readings. The only thing that is off for me slightly with US measurements is US miles per gallon as I grew up with the Imperial gallon and to this day up here anyway speak in Imperial miles per gallon ( I don't do that on this forum though as that would confuse everyone for no good reason ). 
    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...