Jump to content

Change Fluid.. Or Leave Alone?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2000 Silverado with 250K. Just got the truck not long ago, so don't know any of the history. Anyway,  I was changing all the fluids and wondering if I should change the transmission fluid. The fluid is defiantly brownish red and needs to changed, but I have heard stories of folks messing with this and actually causing problems. Especially when doing a full "flush"  ...as for me I was thinking of just dropping the pan and changing that fluid with filter.  The trans works / shifts like butter now.. it's perfect.  The truck is just a farm truck now, only driven about 3K per year.. no towing or even much high speeds for that matter. 

 

Posted

I'd do a pan drop, replace the filter, clean the pan out well as well as the magnet.  Use a high mileage dexron 3 transmission fluid (Example: Valvoline Maxlife).

 

Daniel 

Posted
15 minutes ago, dcheeseman said:

I'd do a pan drop, replace the filter, clean the pan out well as well as the magnet.  Use a high mileage dexron 3 transmission fluid (Example: Valvoline Maxlife).

 

Daniel 

This.  Change it. 

Posted

I have looked into this matter very thoroughly on multiple occasions over the years. 

 

Benefits of changing the fluid: 

 

1) The transmission MIGHT last longer with new fluid. 

 

 

Disadvantages of changing the fluid: 

 

1) Transmission might fail immediately, or sometime over the next year. 

 

 

To me its just not worth the risk. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.  I have talked to many transmission shops about it, and they all said the same thing:

 

    If you know the service history on the trans fluid, and you know for sure that it was changed regularly - then keep changing it. If you don't know the history on the transmission, then LEAVE IT ALONE.

 

 Problem #1: As the fluid gets old, the detergent stops working. Crud builds up on the inside parts. When you introduce new fluid, it loosens that crud up and it clogs the valve body. 

 

 Problem #2: If there are seals inside the transmission that are not sealing very well, the leaks get clogged by crud. New detergent in the fluid washes the crud away and the seal fails. 

 

 Problem #3: The new fluid will be more slippery than the old fluid, so if you clutches are weak at all, then you just caused the transmission to fail by replacing the fluid. 

 

 Problem #4: It was working just fine..... until you messed with it.......

 

 

 

Many people will agree with this. Many will not agree with this. There is no correct answer. I highly advise that you just leave well enough alone and drive it. 

   

Posted

Depends what you have into the truck.  Transmission sounds like it hasnt been maintained properly so it probably doesnt have much time left.  Leaving it alone will most likely give you the longest life possible.  And take it easy on it.  
Start saving for a new one.  Put the money from the fluid and filter into that.  If you change it you have the potential to lost 3 and 4th gear because of the lack of friction material in the old fluid.  Once its dirty in a worn transmission,it can be the only thing letting it shift.  

Posted

It's likely already on its way out so if you have $$$ saved up to replace the tranny, go for it.  if not.. i'd leave it alone. 

Posted

I own a 2002 and a 2003 Suburban. One has fluid that is brown, and clearly worn out. The other has fluid that is pink and looks pretty good. Both transmissions work perfectly. I have no intention of changing either fluid EVER. I have never had a transmission fail that had old fluid in it. I have had several fail with newer fluid in them. Change it, don't change it. - do what makes you happy. 

Posted

I would change it out.  No worries.  I changed out a 2000 Silverado's transmission fluid and filter at 150k miles and it was really brown.  No issues after the change.

Posted

I had a 1999 Chevy Lumina with a 3.5 or something v6. After a ton of miles and years, the overdrive started slipping in and out on the highway. The "experts" said, "nothing you can do, just wait for it to fail". I decided to change the fluid, and it started working perfectly again. Kept it for a couple more years and still sold it for $900. Great car and I'm into maintenance so I say change it. IMHO. 

Posted

Although I would not change the fluid unless it has been done regularly since new, I agree that if your transmission is already failing, changing the fluid and filter would be worth trying before you replace the trans. Probably wont help, but its worth a shot. 

Posted
14 hours ago, Zoomie said:

I had a 1999 Chevy Lumina with a 3.5 or something v6. After a ton of miles and years, the overdrive started slipping in and out on the highway. The "experts" said, "nothing you can do, just wait for it to fail". I decided to change the fluid, and it started working perfectly again. Kept it for a couple more years and still sold it for $900. Great car and I'm into maintenance so I say change it. IMHO. 

3.1L, or 3.8L for those years.  And those luminas were great cars.  Only thing you had to worry about was the head gasket. 

Posted

I've always really liked the 3.1liter. I had a 2.8 in a 1989 Z24 that broke a crank shaft ( my fault for always hot rodding it) so I dropped a 1994 3.1 in it. Mostly plug and play too.
What a torquey engine and for a v6 they had a great exhaust note.
I learned to tear that engine down in the driveway ( the top end of the engine) replace heads, etc and have it ready for cruising a few hours later. The good old days.

3.1L, or 3.8L for those years.  And those luminas were great cars.  Only thing you had to worry about was the head gasket. 


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

Ya, that was a 3.1. I had the 2.8 in an earlier car. Great engines. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 511 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...