Jump to content

Considering used '16 Silverado LT- pricing question

bamafan76

Recommended Posts

bamafan76 Enthusiast

bamafan76

Posted
Posted

I purchased a new '16 Sierra DC SLE in January '17. Had it 8 months, loved the truck but didn't use it as a truck so traded it for a car. Now having truck withdrawals and began looking at a '16 Silverado LT. When I bought my Sierra, it was rebated from $44K to $31K. The Silverado's I'm looking at are dealer demos and was wondering if I could find out if the trucks also had rebates when new and therefore could know that going in to help get a better price for them. Right now they are asking more for them than what I paid for my brand new '16 Sierra, so I know they can't be worth more than that, right? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

B R A D Enthusiast

B R A D

Posted
Posted

I looked at a few Ford demos before pulling the trigger on my Sierra and they included any rebates with their demo trucks because they had never been titled. I would be inclined to think the same would be true for GM.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

aseibel Senior Enthusiast

aseibel

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, bamafan76 said:

Right now they are asking more for them than what I paid for my brand new '16 Sierra, so I know they can't be worth more than that, right?

Sounds like you got an extremely good deal on your last truck, usually 20% below MSRP is a great deal. you got 30%. It might have been a mistake to get rid of it. But we don't know the full details of your truck to do a real comparison.

 

How many miles were on it when you bought it? Fill us in with the engine, options, etc. Was it 4wd? I can't imagine getting a brand new 4wd truck for 31k.

 

My local dealer currently has three 2016's on their lot right now, asking 31k, 35k and 36,500 respectively. That's what slightly used trucks go for around here. The internet is your friend. search around for your desired truck options and see what they are listed for in your area.

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

Your previous truck was a late leftover and would have had every possible price break.  Wait till late '18/early '19 and you will find similar savings on an '18. The downside to leftover vehicles is they often have the least desirable build configurations. If you're considering used, broaden your search to include any other years in this generation of trucks.  You may even find a used '18 for a great price!

aseibel Senior Enthusiast

aseibel

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, Donstar said:

The downside to leftover vehicles is they often have the least desirable build configurations. 

and least desirable colors, hah. My wife picked the color. I would have just gotten regular black otherwise!

 

The less picky you are, the better deal you can find.

joejoe11 Enthusiast

joejoe11

Posted
Posted

I was glancing at pricing a few days ago and now actually looks like a really good time to buy a new 2018.  Not sure what options you need, but check out HolidayAutoGroup.com or Bomninchevrolet.com.  They're both no haggle pricing dealerships that list the prices as they are.

 

http://www.bomninchevrolet.com/VehicleDetails/new-2018-Chevrolet-Silverado_1500-Crew_Cab_Short_Box_2_Wheel_Drive_LT-Miami-FL/3074936683

 

Brand new - sticker $43,940 discounted to $26,052.

bamafan76 Enthusiast

bamafan76

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies. My '16 Sierra 1500 SLE was brand new when I bought it in Jan. 2017. It was 2WD, Double Cab, white. It was MSRP'd at $44K, and I paid right under $32K which to me was a great deal. My thought was to find a used 2016 or so Silverado 1500 LT with low miles and to do an even trade with my current vehicle of 2018 Accord EX, less than 2300 miles on it and 5 months old. The used Chevy's I'm looking at were titled as corporate lease which I believe were used as demos at the dealership they are for sale at.

Tahoe02 Enthusiast

Tahoe02

Posted
Posted

The used 2018 EXs on Cars.com are going for $26,000 so they will probably offer you $22-23,000. Depends on what they are going for at the auto auctions. Not sure you will find a truck that cheap.

bamafan76 Enthusiast

bamafan76

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, joejoe11 said:

I was glancing at pricing a few days ago and now actually looks like a really good time to buy a new 2018.  Not sure what options you need, but check out HolidayAutoGroup.com or Bomninchevrolet.com.  They're both no haggle pricing dealerships that list the prices as they are.

 

http://www.bomninchevrolet.com/VehicleDetails/new-2018-Chevrolet-Silverado_1500-Crew_Cab_Short_Box_2_Wheel_Drive_LT-Miami-FL/3074936683

 

Brand new - sticker $43,940 discounted to $26,052.

Man that is some good prices...much better than the dealerships near me! My whole reasoning for going used was thinking I'd get a better price and the fact if it was used I wouldn't mind it as much if I treated as a truck rather than a new one, I'd want to treat it new forever.

Fix29 Enthusiast

Fix29

Posted
Posted

I would shop around at new trucks if I was you. Of course a lot depends on location, timing, etc but when I bought my 17 Sierra in February of last year the incentives actually made the new truck cheaper than buying a used one.

joejoe11 Enthusiast

joejoe11

Posted
Posted
33 minutes ago, Fix29 said:

I would shop around at new trucks if I was you. Of course a lot depends on location, timing, etc but when I bought my 17 Sierra in February of last year the incentives actually made the new truck cheaper than buying a used one.

I had the same experience when I bought my 17 in September.  The exact same trucks used with 30,000 miles were running $2,000 more than my brand new one.

bamafan76 Enthusiast

bamafan76

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, joejoe11 said:

I had the same experience when I bought my 17 in September.  The exact same trucks used with 30,000 miles were running $2,000 more than my brand new one.

While I'll assume that there is a logical explanation, I don't see why a used truck a couple of years old could cost more than a brand new truck of the same model, engine, etc. I get the rebates/incentives offered on a new truck, but it then makes you wonder why would someone buy a truck when those are not being offered?

joejoe11 Enthusiast

joejoe11

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, bamafan76 said:

While I'll assume that there is a logical explanation, I don't see why a used truck a couple of years old could cost more than a brand new truck of the same model, engine, etc. I get the rebates/incentives offered on a new truck, but it then makes you wonder why would someone buy a truck when those are not being offered?

I completely agree.  This is my own personal opinion, so take it how you will, but I think buying a vehicle a year or two old with 10,000-20,000 miles on it to get a deal is an old school way of thinking.  I think the industry has changed and the manufacturers have shifted their way of doing business.  But, hard to say if this is accurate.

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

When you need a truck, you need a truck and have to take the incentives that are offered at the time.  The dealer doesn't know about upcoming incentives so if you let a month go by, the next month could be less incentives than now.  It's a crap shoot.

 

My 2014 GMC Z71 4x4 SLE stickered at $44K and I got it for $33,400 + free spray-in + free underseat storage + $800 credit to some Nitto G2s + 3 years maintenance.   On the other end of the lot, there was a used 2014 for $38K.    Made no sense to me.     I regularly see trucks like mine on craigs with 60-90K miles for around $30k.    

 

Cash buyers willing to walk away will always get the best deal.

 

OP is a car dealer's dream!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • Atlas
      Tire psi

      By Atlas · Posted

      It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • B07
      Anyone have a spare?

      By B07 · Posted

      Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...