Jump to content

Only 1 DRL not working

barneytoe

Recommended Posts

barneytoe Enthusiast

barneytoe

Posted
Posted

99 Silverado, right side DRL is not working. 

 

I replaced both bulbs with new LED ones, and STILL the right side doesn't work.

 

Is this a relay or some sort of DRL module issue then?

mllester325 Enthusiast

mllester325

Posted
Posted
99 Silverado, right side DRL is not working. 

 

I replaced both bulbs with new LED ones, and STILL the right side doesn't work.

 

Is this a relay or some sort of DRL module issue then?

 

I have replaced the lamp sockets a couple of times on my 2000 Yukon XL.

This is a new socket and pigtail you can use to repair the wiring harness.

 

Available at Amazon in addition to other AC Delco suppliers.

 

ACDelco LS94 GM Original Equipment Natural Colored Multi-Purpose Lamp Socket

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

barneytoe Enthusiast

barneytoe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Solved the problem but not sure how. While debugging ended up swapping lamp sockets  from L to R and now both working :( 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AlVeron
      Manufactuer's Defect - Paint Failure - Cherry Red High Country 2021 Suburban

      By AlVeron · Posted

      This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...