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Biggerdogg01

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Biggerdogg01 Enthusiast

Biggerdogg01

Posted
Posted

My brother-in-law has a 2017 Silverado 2500HD and my sister would like to upgrade to a larger 5th wheel. They don't have the funds to buy a new 5th wheel and a 1 ton. He said that he can upgrade his 3/4 ton to a 1 ton with a few component changes, is this possible? If he can do this, is there a way for him to get the truck certified as a 1 ton?

 

 

gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted

Not really, there's a lot different on the one ton, bigger, brakes, rear diff, sway bars, it goes on and on. You can make the 2500 carry that weight, but there's a reason they make the 2 different trucks, the 2500 is softer in almost all ways, same truck from the frame up, but that's not where you you need the capabilities to haul and stop the weight. My 2017 2500 can carry around 3000 lbs the bed, the one ton, 7000 lbs, to do that, the factory makes the proper adjustments to the truck on the assembly line. For me, with my family in the truck on vacation, I would buy the proper tool for the job....

 

brclark82 Enthusiast

brclark82

Posted
Posted
19 hours ago, gearheadesw said:

Not really, there's a lot different on the one ton, bigger, brakes, rear diff, sway bars, it goes on and on. You can make the 2500 carry that weight, but there's a reason they make the 2 different trucks, the 2500 is softer in almost all ways, same truck from the frame up, but that's not where you you need the capabilities to haul and stop the weight. My 2017 2500 can carry around 3000 lbs the bed, the one ton, 7000 lbs, to do that, the factory makes the proper adjustments to the truck on the assembly line. For me, with my family in the truck on vacation, I would buy the proper tool for the job....

 

While I’m not encouraging him to tow something that isn’t safe, I don’t believe this particular information is correct. Don’t exceed gvwr and especially axle weight ratings.

 

#1 the 2500 and 3500 have the exact same brakes

#2 the entire drivetrain from the engine/tranny/differential is the same.  If you have the Duramax even the axle is identical between the 2500/3500

#3 it doesn’t go on and on...the only difference is one extra leaf on the rear springs (6 instead of 5) and 126 load rated tires instead of 121 (3750lbs vs 3200lbs) The tires are the real weak link.

#4 the difference isn’t even close to 3000lbs vs 7000lbs...it’s more like 2500 vs 3500 and then 4500 for the DRW (add about 500 to each one of these for base models/reg cabs) Regardless, for similarly equipped trucks it’s about an extra 1000lbs from 2500-3500 and another 1000lbs from 3500srw-3500drw

 

Even for the DRW the only change is 2 extra wheels/tires (which is the weak link like I noted before) even the axle stays the same

 

NO you cannot get a truck certified with a new GVWR.

 

As far as towing the 5er, Duramax would be more important to me than 2500 vs 3500 unless it was over 16k or so and then you need DRW anyway.  You get the bigger rear axle, Allison tranny, exhaust brake  (big deal when towing this 5ers) not to mention 900 lbs of torque. As long as he has the Duramax, if he adds some helper springs (ie timbren) and makes sure he doesn’t exceed his axle weight ratings (his combined axle weight ratings will exceed his GVWR) he will be fine. 

8lugCT Enthusiast

8lugCT

Posted
Posted
While I’m not encouraging him to tow something that isn’t safe, I don’t believe this particular information is correct. Don’t exceed gvwr and especially axle weight ratings.

 

#1 the 2500 and 3500 have the exact same brakes

#2 the entire drivetrain from the engine/tranny/differential is the same.  If you have the Duramax even the axle is identical between the 2500/3500

#3 it doesn’t go on and on...the only difference is one extra leaf on the rear springs (6 instead of 5) and 126 load rated tires instead of 121 (3750lbs vs 3200lbs) The tires are the real weak link.

#4 the difference isn’t even close to 3000lbs vs 7000lbs...it’s more like 2500 vs 3500 and then 4500 for the DRW (add about 500 to each one of these for base models/reg cabs) Regardless, for similarly equipped trucks it’s about an extra 1000lbs from 2500-3500 and another 1000lbs from 3500srw-3500drw

 

Even for the DRW the only change is 2 extra wheels/tires (which is the weak link like I noted before) even the axle stays the same

 

NO you cannot get a truck certified with a new GVWR.

 

As far as towing the 5er, Duramax would be more important to me than 2500 vs 3500 unless it was over 16k or so and then you need DRW anyway.  You get the bigger rear axle, Allison tranny, exhaust brake  (big deal when towing this 5ers) not to mention 900 lbs of torque. As long as he has the Duramax, if he adds some helper springs (ie timbren) and makes sure he doesn’t exceed his axle weight ratings (his combined axle weight ratings will exceed his GVWR) he will be fine. 

I believe the axle size is different. 10.5 on the 2500 and 11.5 on the 3500, if I can remember correctly

 

Edit: with 11.5 on the 2500 duramax as well

brclark82 Enthusiast

brclark82

Posted
Posted

That is correct, the 2500 Duramax and all 3500’s have the 11.5, only the 2500 gasser has the 10.5

8lugCT Enthusiast

8lugCT

Posted
Posted
41 minutes ago, brclark82 said:

That is correct, the 2500 Duramax and all 3500’s have the 11.5, only the 2500 gasser has the 10.5

My bad. just realized you said that lol. for some reason I read 2500/3500 have same axle size

gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted

My bad also, Back in the day, working on the oil pipe line rigs, there was a big difference between the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, just looked up some part numbers, and you're right, they are the same numbers. I didn't mean to give out bad info, sorry.

  • 2 weeks later...
ewbldavis Enthusiast

ewbldavis

Posted
Posted

2 things - one, your SISTER wants the bigger 5th wheel -  isn't that usually how it goes?:lol:

 

 The other - is their current 2500 gas or diesel? Not that it changes the tow rating much, but curious because, while not necessarily legal, I see alot of big 5er's towed with 2500's.

pronstar Enthusiast

pronstar

Posted
Posted

The 11.5” rear axle is rated to 10.5k lbs by AAM.

The factory ratings are tied to the tires the truck is equipped with.

Swapping tires doesn’t change the sticker in your truck. But it also doesn’t mean your truck is a death trap if you upgrade things.

We can discuss “legality” all we want, but generally over the road weight laws are for commercial.

Look up non-comm vehicle codes - available for all 50 states if you google it - and you won’t find anything other than exceeding tire load limits, and this is only for some states.

This has been argued ad infinitum on RV.net

Full disclosure:
I towed a 18.5k, 42’ fiver toy hauler with my 2500 RAM CTD.
Was within the sticker of a 3500, was well within my tire ratings and AAM-provided axle rating.
Ran bags to level the load on Deaver springs.
Still alive.
Would loved to have towed with a dually, but duallies are crap off-road [emoji4]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • 8 months later...
ShabbaDanks Enthusiast

ShabbaDanks

Posted
Posted
On 10/3/2018 at 2:08 AM, gearheadesw said:

Not really, there's a lot different on the one ton, bigger, brakes, rear diff, sway bars, it goes on and on. You can make the 2500 carry that weight, but there's a reason they make the 2 different trucks, the 2500 is softer in almost all ways, same truck from the frame up, but that's not where you you need the capabilities to haul and stop the weight. My 2017 2500 can carry around 3000 lbs the bed, the one ton, 7000 lbs, to do that, the factory makes the proper adjustments to the truck on the assembly line. For me, with my family in the truck on vacation, I would buy the proper tool for the job....

 

Hey I’ve got a 16 crew cab standard bed 2500 high country 6.0, the placard on the door is completely faded and I’m not seeing any numbers in the manual as it’s just telling me to refer to the placard on the B pillar. I plan on putting some weight in the bed and was just trying to narrow down just exactly how much I could put in the bed with just me as the passenger (200lb). I’ve searched online and haven’t found any concrete answered. Thanks in advanced for any input and am sorry to hi jack this thread.

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, ShabbaDanks said:

Hey I’ve got a 16 crew cab standard bed 2500 high country 6.0, the placard on the door is completely faded and I’m not seeing any numbers in the manual as it’s just telling me to refer to the placard on the B pillar. I plan on putting some weight in the bed and was just trying to narrow down just exactly how much I could put in the bed with just me as the passenger (200lb). I’ve searched online and haven’t found any concrete answered. Thanks in advanced for any input and am sorry to hi jack this thread.

I would suggest directly contacting GM or your dealer, they should be able to give you the factory numbers on what your vehicle is rated for.

gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted

Well, if it was me, I would start loading the truck, when it starts to squat, take a look at the space between the rear springs and the bump stop. When you're about 2 inches away from the bump stop with the spring, stop loading.

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