Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The control arms where stock, just ordered ready lift leveling kit with upper control arms designed to change the geometry of the stress on the components especially the control arm and ball joints

Posted
1 hour ago, Mike may said:

The control arms where stock, just ordered ready lift leveling kit with upper control arms designed to change the geometry of the stress on the components especially the control arm and ball joints

The only modification i did on my truck was the 1" spacer. Scared the hell out of me when that tire folded and locked up !.

So that's 2 trailboss trucks that failed. It appears factory 2" plus 1" for 3" total is to much upper ball joint angle.

Beware trailboss owners with lift  blocks without upgraded upper a-arms ! .

Posted
6 hours ago, Mike may said:

The control arms where stock, just ordered ready lift leveling kit with upper control arms designed to change the geometry of the stress on the components especially the control arm and ball joints

Did you get it professionally installed, curious because I wanted to do a RC, level but now I’m second guessing... did you do an alignment after installing too?

Posted
On 10/12/2020 at 11:25 AM, ALLSTAR said:

Added a Motofab 1" spacer (CH-1LM-TB)  to my 2019 trailboss. after about 8 months passenger side upper ball joint separated.

Normal driving, couple railroad track crossings daily at speed that might have extended suspension.

Lucky i was going only about 25mph when it came apart. Going to go with better angle upper a-arms.

 

IMG_6438.jpg

IMG_6437.jpg

Was your level professionally installed? And did you do an alignment? Curious because I’m second guessing doing it now..

Posted
8 minutes ago, jgjorge44 said:

Was your level professionally installed? And did you do an alignment? Curious because I’m second guessing doing it now..

I installed them myself. Its just a spacer, 2 bolts, Its pretty easy to install, you really cant do it wrong.

I could post a pic when it gets light out. Went right to alignment shop and they had to do a minor adjustment.

Posted
31 minutes ago, ALLSTAR said:

I installed them myself. Its just a spacer, 2 bolts, Its pretty easy to install, you really cant do it wrong.

I could post a pic when it gets light out. Went right to alignment shop and they had to do a minor adjustment.

Here is closer view of ball joint

IMG_6512.jpg

IMG_6513.jpg

Posted

I’m not a mechanic.  Bought my truck new off the lot as it sits today.  Can anyone look at my angles and tell me if I’m driving around a ticking time bomb?  If so I’m going to get my suspension fixed.  
 

41CBE918-A36C-492C-BF9D-951EBB819D7D.jpeg

986D4B5B-4C2D-4B89-9378-A224714E3302.jpeg

Posted
9 hours ago, Musgo said:

I’m not a mechanic.  Bought my truck new off the lot as it sits today.  Can anyone look at my angles and tell me if I’m driving around a ticking time bomb?  If so I’m going to get my suspension fixed.  
 

41CBE918-A36C-492C-BF9D-951EBB819D7D.jpeg

986D4B5B-4C2D-4B89-9378-A224714E3302.jpeg

From my understanding is that every stock is already stretched, but still good if you keep factory settings on it. You only push it if you plan on leveling, if so the consensus seems to be to replace the arm to fix the geometry. Readylift has a kit that includes the arm. 

Posted
1 hour ago, jgjorge44 said:

From my understanding is that every stock is already stretched, but still good if you keep factory settings on it. You only push it if you plan on leveling, if so the consensus seems to be to replace the arm to fix the geometry. Readylift has a kit that includes the arm. 

I agree. MUSGO'S AT4 appears to be factory, and looks good to me .  Can someone with just a 1" or 1.5" level with factory upper a arms get a picture of the ball joint angle like the one Musgo posted for a comparision ?  

Posted
1 hour ago, ALLSTAR said:

I agree. MUSGO'S AT4 appears to be factory, and looks good to me .  Can someone with just a 1" or 1.5" level with factory upper a arms get a picture of the ball joint angle like the one Musgo posted for a comparision ?  

RC’s level is 1.5in but it still apparently caused the same issue. I guess replacing the arm is the only way to fix the geometry, but I don’t know for sure. I would like to see someone’s geo with a professionally installed level, see if it’s still the same. Also some Chevy dealers preload a 1in level on their trucks off the lot. Would like to know where they get their kits 

Posted
7 hours ago, ALLSTAR said:

I agree. MUSGO'S AT4 appears to be factory, and looks good to me .  Can someone with just a 1" or 1.5" level with factory upper a arms get a picture of the ball joint angle like the one Musgo posted for a comparision ?  

Only reason I’m concerned is the truck came with 285/65 20s.  So I was worried there was a level the dealer added to do so.  

Posted
On 10/26/2020 at 12:59 PM, Mike may said:

The control arms where stock, just ordered ready lift leveling kit with upper control arms designed to change the geometry of the stress on the components especially the control arm and ball joints

Hello I have a 2020 at4 with the 1.75” leveling kit with control arms. On these trucks they recommend control arms with a leveling kit. To keep all the angles right for the cv axel joints etc. I’ve had it in for about 2 months now. Zero problems at all, truck might even ride better. I also have the truck sitting on 22x12 -51 offset with Toyo 33x12.5 

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 500 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...