Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, pewterliftedz said:

That looks great man, perfect stance.

Thanks!  I really like it too.  Gives the truck a little more aggressive look.  

Posted (edited)
22 minutes ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

What brand are the spacers?

 

They’re made by G2 Axle & Gear.  Hubcentric, billet aluminum with anodized finish.  Picked em up at SummitRacing.  Well made stuff. 

606D9709-CFD0-4B2B-9716-F5BF153B119C.jpeg

Edited by steve76t
Posted

Ok, I need rear spacers. Or to reprhase, if I want the back to look like the front, I need rear spacers.

 

What is the general consensus? I have searched the archives and it almost seems a fifty/fifty split. What say ye? Safe or not?

 

 

Posted
3 hours ago, Shakeydeal said:

Ok, I need rear spacers. Or to reprhase, if I want the back to look like the front, I need rear spacers.

 

What is the general consensus? I have searched the archives and it almost seems a fifty/fifty split. What say ye? Safe or not?

 

 

if you buy a quality spacer (hub/lug/wheel centric) such as BORA and torque them properly you'll be fine

Posted

Quality spacers are the 1st step.  #2 proper install & check torque on a regular basis.  After initial install, check after about 100 miles or so.  Then recheck at each tire rotation, +/- 3000 to 5000 miles.  

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Bumping this thread as its probably my next mod.  

 

Anyone know if 1.25" spacers work on the stock 20" black 5 Spokes.  Enough clearance to not have to trim the studs?  No rubbing at full lock?

Posted
3 hours ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

Bumping this thread as its probably my next mod.  

 

Anyone know if 1.25" spacers work on the stock 20" black 5 Spokes.  Enough clearance to not have to trim the studs?  No rubbing at full lock?

in order to clear the studs you need 1.75" spacers, but depending how the back of the wheels are, it's possible the protruding portion of the stud can sit in "pockets" in the back of the wheel. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Have any of you considered the track width?  Looks like the front is 1" wider then the rear.  So would ordering a 1/2" spacer in the front and a 1.5" in the rear give you a more straight line look? 

Posted
Have any of you considered the track width?  Looks like the front is 1" wider then the rear.  So would ordering a 1/2" spacer in the front and a 1.5" in the rear give you a more straight line look? 

The front is 1/4” wider per side


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Pulled the trigger on some 1 1/4” spacers for my truck.  Install took about 1.5 hours as I was taking my time, did test fitting at each wheel, made sure everything was clean, then made sure all were installed correctly.  Here’s a pic of how she looks...
 
3E2E244F-2B1E-4F19-B5BE-2D753DA43346.thumb.jpeg.2f946e59128b470ef00271fa2fdc3c83.jpeg


1 1/4” spacer need any stud trimming? And I didn’t catch which brand you went with? Nice truck! Perfect stance IMO!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

I swear I must be not looking at my truck close enough. I’ve got a bds lift so I know physically my track width is about and 1.25 wider in the front but I swear you can’t tell by looking at it. I would have to put a straight edge on the surface to tell the difference. Maybe because I have a crew cab standard bed so they are farther apart so it harder to tell? Or am I neglecting my poor girl and no spending enough time looking at her?

Posted
I swear I must be not looking at my truck close enough. I’ve got a bds lift so I know physically my track width is about and 1.25 wider in the front but I swear you can’t tell by looking at it. I would have to put a straight edge on the surface to tell the difference. Maybe because I have a crew cab standard bed so they are farther apart so it harder to tell? Or am I neglecting my poor girl and no spending enough time looking at her?

The widened track is blatantly obvious bro lol. It’s about 1.75” per side also, not 1.25”

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
7 minutes ago, jimmyboy8301 said:

The widened track is blatantly obvious bro lol. It’s about 1.75” per side also, not 1.25”

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I guess it’s time for an eye appointment brother haha. If I put my wheels straight, walk about 20 feet back and squat down and sort of move my head back and forth I can kinda see it. And you’re probably right about size difference I did my lift about 6 months back so I don’t recall the exact measurements I took. If it wasn’t raining so damn much I’d snap a picture.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,982
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    nolankd
    Newest Member
    nolankd
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 440 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • For a limited time, retail accounts receive a free fender cover (G2803) with their order of $750 or more when they use code FENDER926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. Own a business and want to apply for a retail account?  Apply here. https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/sell-in-your-store/?zo=521390  
    • Thanks for that, yes just because I could I measured what came out just to give me some guidance although I already knew to expect it to take at least 9.5 to just throwing in the whole 10 quarts off the shot and doing a one and done heat cycle to drop out the excess to get to the proper level. I don't recall exactly now what I measured that came out but was less than I put back in, I knew I spilled some on the garage floor but the main part was that I was thrilled in the discovery I did not have to touch my exhaust to flex it down. The gasket manipulating is a pain of course to create that clearance to take the pan out and put back in but its all very doable if one is careful and not forcing the gasket to flex too much. From the quote I got at a transmission shop of 900.00 here in Canada ( never asked at the dealer what they charge ) I saved 700.00 doing it myself after paying for the supplies so that to me paid very good wages !, and I knew what fluid was put in and that I had changed the filter and that the level is correct without any doubts. 
    • I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.
    • I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.
    • Typically its said and I agree so far that the engine oil drain plug oring is not required to be changed out unless you see some damage happening to the oring as apparently the oring lasts well. The dealer I have been getting a few parts from never even stocked the oring but instead stocked the whole drain plug that comes with a new oring which for the dealer is easier because they just throw in a new drain plug if there was any question about damage on it as well and charge the customer accordingly but again only if it is needed.    Also a hint about the drain plug oring to help it last vs a risk of causing damage to it, after its been removed and wiped off or washed off ( that is a whole other topic about some solvents damaging orings because some solvent types do ) to make sure to relube the oring with a bit of new oil so that it won't "grip" on the sealing surface of the pan and needlessly stress out the oring. Its no different than putting some oil on the sealing ring of the engine oil filter. So I just grabbed a new drain plug to have on hand although more recently bought just the oring as well but as its special it costs half the price of the drain plug ... !   Since you mentioned the hate to be empty handed theme, I am not sure what you have in the way of filter removal tools as I like using the exact sized for the filter steel 1" wide band with side to side swivel handle filter removal tool, and it can be used to snug up the filter without risk of damaging a filter as well ( its probably a lisle brand I have ). The drain plug hex size is 15mm and I always like using a 6 point socket if I have a choice and with this truck I've been using just a 3/8 ratchet that has a fairly long handle. Do you have a funnel that will work to pour oil in as that is definitely the short coming bastard part about the design with that fill port on the valve cover on such an angle that no normal funnel will even work. There are adapters and things on the market that will set into or screw into that fill port, I didn't want to deal with US shipping as that is all I was seeing at the time so caved and bought a Lisle brand multi vehicle fit adapter funnel kit and it really works well but there are much less expensive adapters out there that work in conjunction with an off the shelf funnel that would do the job also. Now that I have it, I like how it works and works so slick with the shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers I have now switched over to. Whatever you do, have a funnel system of some sort as you will be swearing if you dropped the oil and then realize you have nothing to properly pour new oil in without spilling it all over the engine !.     Other comments, quite a bit of oil flows out down the filter when its cracked loose due to the housing above the filter so let it dribble down the filter until it slacks off flow and then remove the filter to create less possible mess. It seems these engines can sit for quite a while and drip and if you have time let it sit there and drip out of the engine as much as it wants. Also a good time to grease the 9 zerks on the front end, that's my typical practice anyway to grease the suspension and steering each time I change the oil. And remember to reset the oil change minder ( not something I am used to doing with older vehicles and equipment ). 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...