Jump to content

The "Catch Can" Explained - By Elite Engineering

Elite Engineering

Recommended Posts

sensinitas Enthusiast

sensinitas

Posted
Posted

I found a bunch of oil in my intake tube when I recently opened up my airbox. Even with my catch can. This was all clean-side blowby.

 

Needless to say, I got ahold of a RX clean-side separator kit ASAP. I will be installing it this weekend. Video to follow.

New here and getting my learn on. So are you running a catch can AND this separator?
  • Replies 698
  • Created
  • Last Reply
fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

New here and getting my learn on. So are you running a catch can AND this separator?

Yes. Follow the link in my signature to my YouTube channel. I have videos showing all my intake and catch can and separator stuff.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
drparker7 Enthusiast

drparker7

Posted
Posted

whats the best catch can system out there. I have a brand new truck and I don't want anything to happen to it

Willshire Enthusiast

Willshire

Posted
Posted

Elite EX-2, Saikou Michi, are good units. I am putting in a modified ADD W1 because of the price.

landfusion Enthusiast

landfusion

Posted
Posted

Anyone looking for a catch can north of the border I have a new one for sale in the marketplace section. Decided I'm not going to need it.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
SierraMyst Enthusiast

SierraMyst

Posted
Posted

Could someone better explain the catch can vs the oil separator?

 

Isn't the purpose of the catch can to catch the oil. What does the separator do?

 

Also, I see on Elite's website they don't advertise a catch can for the 2016 5.3L.

 

What brand is everyone else using?

CNC237 Enthusiast

CNC237

Posted
Posted

So I installed an Elite EX-2 catch can kit (clean side included). Call me crazy, but I can feel a difference in the throttle. the truck seems to have more get up and go at the start. Nothing major just a suttle difference.

 

I have not drained it yet, figured I'd get some miles on it.

 

I'll let you know when i drain.

Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can someone explain why I can't find the 2014+ Sierra on Elite Engineerings website?

 

It can be found, close to the top, in the pull-down menus in these two locations:

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/elite-engineerings-2nd-generation-catch-can-e2/

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/elite-engineering-e2-x-catch-can/

SierraMyst Enthusiast

SierraMyst

Posted
Posted
Thanks for coming in.. I found it once I switched out of mobile view.

 

Could I ask for clarification on a couple things.

 

I have a 2016 5.3L.

 

Do want a single exit or double? What's the difference?

 

Do I want a check valve? What's the purpose?

 

Is the clean air oil separator necessary?

 

What the difference between the ex and ex-2?

 

Thanks in advance...

sensinitas Enthusiast

sensinitas

Posted
Posted

You guys running the Elite - What fittings and hoses did you use? What is the exit line check valve?

Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You guys running the Elite - What fittings and hoses did you use? What is the exit line check valve?

 

 

All our Catch Cans are shipped with 3/8" ID SAE 30R7 fuel line hose. The check valves are also 3/8" size

CNC237 Enthusiast

CNC237

Posted
Posted

You guys running the Elite - What fittings and hoses did you use? What is the exit line check valve?

The EX-2 kit has everything including the clean side. I did not realize this when i purchased but was pleasantly suprised when it arrived.

 

The only thing I did was replace the feul hose with transmission hose. Works like a champ and not whining noises.

Spurly Enthusiast

Spurly

Posted
Posted

Thanks to all the good folks on here, I should have an Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean side separator waiting for me when I get home. I bought a new 2016 Silverado LT Z71 at end of January and instantly began looking for a good forum to join, so here I am.

 

I never had an issue with carbon build up on my last truck (2008 Frontier) because it wasn't direct injection so I promptly ordered a catch can this week for my new truck. This will be my first "mod" besides tinted windows. I only have 500 miles on the truck and this will be installed this weekend. I wasn't going to order the clean side spearator with the catch can but decided I better. I planned on ordering the Airaid MIT next month and thought it would be best to have all this on beforehand. It seemed like a few people who didn't have catch can or clean side separator were noticing oil on the air filter after they installed the MIT and thought I better just buy it now!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 5,439 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      J&L OIL SEPARATOR CO

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Grumpy Bear
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • JAI3
      2016 Sierra 5.3L L83 new injectors now runs rich.

      By JAI3 · Posted

      I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Coastie05
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No, but don't skimp on safe! 😉 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...