Jump to content

The "Catch Can" Explained - By Elite Engineering


Recommended Posts

Posted

The sooner you install the catch can the better. However, I just did the install you are doing on my truck that has the Air Raid Air Box Tube. When you install both the oil catch can and the clean side separator kit, you use the fittings on the air tube, I modified the fittings to fit the application. The passenger side fitting gets plugged off when you do the separator kit. The fitting on the driver's side comes with an adaptor to reduce the truck's 1/2" hose barb to a 3/8" line.

 

I bought a plug for the passenger's side and found a fitting with a 90 degree 3/8" barb for the driver's side to eliminate the hose adapter all together. Much cleaner install. When you go to install the Air raid you will see what I mean.

  • Replies 698
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I know this is probably beaten to death, but has anyone actually looked in one of the 2014+ GM DI engines for carbon build up?

I searched and failed. Thanks!

 

 

Here's a very interesting article on today's DI engines. (not GM's though)

http://www.edmunds.com/autoobserver-archive/2011/06/direct-injection-fouls-some-early-adopters.html

 

Edit: Found this thread. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168709-intake-manifold-off-with-pics-of-intake-valves-with-deposits/

anyone have any more examples?

Posted

Hey Willshire. I am familiar with the ADD W1. But what is a "modded" W1?

I was referring to installing a coalescent in the internal baffle. As in the other thread, i installed some screen and stainless pot scrubber in the baffle to provide better coalescing than from the manufacturer. the holes in the baffle are too big to be effective. See the ADD W1 thread to see what i mean.

Posted

The sooner you install the catch can the better. However, I just did the install you are doing on my truck that has the Air Raid Air Box Tube. When you install both the oil catch can and the clean side separator kit, you use the fittings on the air tube, I modified the fittings to fit the application. The passenger side fitting gets plugged off when you do the separator kit. The fitting on the driver's side comes with an adaptor to reduce the truck's 1/2" hose barb to a 3/8" line.

 

I bought a plug for the passenger's side and found a fitting with a 90 degree 3/8" barb for the driver's side to eliminate the hose adapter all together. Much cleaner install. When you go to install the Air raid you will see what I mean.

 

Do you have a picture of your install? I just installed the Air Raid Jr kit, and my Elite catch can and clean side separator just showed up. Would love to have a visual reference of the changes you made if possible :thumbs:

Posted

I'm sure it's just the angle but it looks like your brass plug on the clean side of the intake tube is cross threaded?

Agreed, looks cock eyed
Posted

The threads were tapped at a weird angle or the boss was not square with the tube. I had to check it twice when I did it. Every time I look at this picture it drives me nuts. It is air tight though!

Posted

I dropped my truck off for some warranty work (shocks, loose driver's seat, etc) and the sales manager said my clean side separator was a "bad idea" and "could cause problems down the road" when referring to the bank-to-bank connection (see photo).

 

He mentioned that that type of system is only recommend for "long term/ high RPM type applications... such as towing". He also mentioned "by bypassing the PCV system, I no longer have any positive crankcase ventilation pressure".

 

I politely thanked him for his advice and input on the situation and went my way.

 

What all say the hive?

post-154054-0-48270000-1456789351_thumb.jpg

post-154054-0-48270000-1456789351_thumb.jpg

post-154054-0-48270000-1456789351_thumb.jpg

post-154054-0-48270000-1456789351_thumb.jpg

Posted

Guys, there are several threads on this subject on this site along with you tube videos. The service manger is mistaken. The 1/2" hose that goes side to side just seals the system back up so you do not have a vacuum leak. I guess he doesn't see the replacement for the breather with the hose going to the exact same place the previous ones do! Maybe he would be happier if there were two of them, one from each valve cover. When it's time to drain your catch can, go to that service manger and ask him how the oil and other crap got into the can if there is no PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system in tact.

 

The oil catch can (any brand or model) does nothing more than run in-line to the existing PCV system. All you are doing is capturing some of the oil mist that is a natural by product (blow by) of the motor and converting it back to oil along with the other nasties. The water is from condensation on the outside because you are cooling off the mixture. Think of it like an in-line fuel filter. The clean air system is an add on that takes GM's dual side system that is routed to the air box chamber and redirects it to one valve cover with a cross over hose going from one side to the side that evacuates thru the replacement for the oil cap.

 

The only pitfall to this whole system, no matter how efficient, is that you have to empty the catch can occasionally. The colder the weather the more often you need to check it.

 

One last question....... since when did towing become a high rpm type application? :M16:

Posted

Been reading forum after forum, I'm convinced and I would love to buy one, but I'm pretty lost on what brand to get. I see people mentioning Jegs and Elite. I'd like to stay in the >$100 range.. Any suggestions?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Well, I went ahead and bought an Elite. Should ship out tomorrow (hopefully) and I'll be on my way with the install!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Well, I went ahead and bought an Elite. Should ship out tomorrow (hopefully) and I'll be on my way with the install!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hopefully you are not disappointed in order fulfillment. I ordered an E2-X on 22 Feb. Received shipment tracking info on 25 Feb. It did not ship until 03 Mar. FedEx says it will be delivered tomorrow, 08 Mar.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
    • This is going to take allot of Assembly    
    • Why do they have the gas 10l80 opening at 145?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...