Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 3/31/2020 at 5:30 PM, alexistence said:

Since I guess it's been a couple of weeks now, have you noticed any drain on your battery that would be more than leaving a phone charging inside? I would like to run it hot and I hate that the USB won't charge my phone with the engine off.. which is a terrible design flaw if you ask me. I'd like to be able leave the phone on the console and have it charging while I'm at work.

Nope, no noticable battery drain.

Posted (edited)

I just ordered this wireless charger which others on this forum have installed (I think...) in the center console lid. 

 

CHOETECH Dual Fast Wireless Charger, 5 Coils Qi Certified Double Wireless Charging Pad

 

here is the issue:  the charger works when I plug into the wall outlet. When I plug into the USB in the center console the light comes on but does not charge when a phone is placed on it. I tried a regular charging cord plugged directly into the phone and it charges, so it is not the USB outlet in the truck.  I did this without mounting it, just loose on the center console, so it is not the thickness of the lid and cover on the phone that prevent charging. 
 

any suggestions?
 

thanks for the help!

 

 

EE0DF257-87CB-413D-BFBA-03405E53ED71.png

Edited by pschne1
Add more info
Posted (edited)

The USB on the dash probably doesn't carry enough voltage or watts to run that thing. It charges phones slow...

 

I bet it carries enough to power the LED on the device, but not enough send power to your phone. Try to hard wire it??

Edited by alexistence
Posted
2 hours ago, alexistence said:

The USB on the dash probably doesn't carry enough voltage or watts to run that thing. It charges phones slow...

 

I bet it carries enough to power the LED on the device, but not enough send power to your phone. Try to hard wire it??

Hard wiring is an option, but would prefer to avoid having to tear apart center console. I am wondering if getting a USB C to USB C cable would work. The plug on the charger is a UBC C but the other end of the cable is the old, larger USB connector. I see cables with USB C on both ends available. I wonder if there is more power supply using the USB C jack in the console?

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, pschne1 said:

Hard wiring is an option, but would prefer to avoid having to tear apart center console. I am wondering if getting a USB C to USB C cable would work. The plug on the charger is a UBC C but the other end of the cable is the old, larger USB connector. I see cables with USB C on both ends available. I wonder if there is more power supply using the USB C jack in the console?

The built in USB ports didn’t provide enough power to effectively power up the coils in my charger mod either.   Run a hot wire into the console and use a quality 12V USB adapter to power the charging pad.   
Also - you don’t have to tear apart the center console to run a wire, you can easily tuck a wire up under it, and the rear of the console (where the vents are) comes off extremely easily, so you can access the inside of the console.  

 

Edited by romclean1
Posted
19 minutes ago, romclean1 said:

The built in USB ports didn’t provide enough power to effectively power up the coils in my charger mod either.   Run a hot wire into the console and use a quality 12V USB adapter to power the charging pad.   

Even plugged into the smaller USB-C outlet?  I thought those charge faster. 

Posted
12 hours ago, pschne1 said:

Even plugged into the smaller USB-C outlet?  I thought those charge faster. 

The only way to know for sure is to test with a meter. I bet that they are both the same though. 

Posted
On 3/1/2020 at 8:49 PM, Fyreman97 said:

This is how I decided to do it for now. Want to wire it in so I don't lose the USB port on the dash.

 

5C128D57-0738-4175-94DB-788BFC6FF977.jpeg

AD75A2A1-7982-4591-A59B-C76FCB947BE7.jpeg

Which wireless charger is that?  Looking for one that I can just plug into the USB port and not hardwire in. 

Posted
1 hour ago, pschne1 said:

Which wireless charger is that?  Looking for one that I can just plug into the USB port and not hardwire in. 

It was from Amazon. It says currently unavailable

FASTPAD Ultra-Slim Qi Wireless Charger PU Leather Wireless Charging Pad for iPhone 11 Pro iPhone X XR XS MAX / 8/8 Plus 7.5W Fast Charging, Water Resistant, No Heating (No AC Adapter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0793TJ9YR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ds7IEbSG37WGF 

Posted

I have a 2020 Silverado LTZ without wireless charging, I was wondering if you bought a new console insert with the wireless pad is the factory wiring underneath to plug in? That would be the way to go for a factory look.

Posted
5 hours ago, John DiLauro said:

I have a 2020 Silverado LTZ without wireless charging, I was wondering if you bought a new console insert with the wireless pad is the factory wiring underneath to plug in? That would be the way to go for a factory look.

 

I have a 19 TB. I ended up using this wireless charger:

CHOETECH Wireless Charger, 3 Coils Qi Certified 10W Max Fast Wireless Charging Pad, Compatible iPhone 11/11 Pro/11 Pro Max/Xs Max/XR/X/XS/8/8 Plus, Galaxy Note 10/S20/S20+/S10/S10E, AirPods Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2CWBS1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zp2KEbMZYJ09C

 

i took the top off and epoxied it to the underside of the center console. The inside of the center console pops right off and i ran the wire out by the hinge.  I hid the wire and plugged it into the USB in the center console.  I tested it and it works perfectly.  Strong connection even if you slide the phone around in the center pocket on the armrest (I have an iPhone 10 Max).  Phone gets slightly warm when in there for an extended amount of time. I had to drive 1.5 hours yesterday and it was in there and charging the entire time even when using Waze.  All in I spent $20 and about an hour (once I found a wireless charger that the USB port in the truck could power). I assume that buying the factory parts would be way more expensive and do not know if the wiring is already there. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 4/3/2020 at 4:00 PM, pschne1 said:

I just ordered this wireless charger which others on this forum have installed (I think...) in the center console lid. 

 

CHOETECH Dual Fast Wireless Charger, 5 Coils Qi Certified Double Wireless Charging Pad

 

here is the issue:  the charger works when I plug into the wall outlet. When I plug into the USB in the center console the light comes on but does not charge when a phone is placed on it. I tried a regular charging cord plugged directly into the phone and it charges, so it is not the USB outlet in the truck.  I did this without mounting it, just loose on the center console, so it is not the thickness of the lid and cover on the phone that prevent charging. 
 

any suggestions?
 

thanks for the help!

 

 

EE0DF257-87CB-413D-BFBA-03405E53ED71.png

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08336XQR9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V71NQ19/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I had the same issue.  Found this adapter for the cigarette lighter and has higher output.  Then invest in some right angle usb/usb-c plugs.  I didn't know that middle piece came up like that on the console.  I might have to try relocating mine underneath like what you have pictured.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have been looking into adding wireless charging to a 2020 LT Trail Boss. It took a little digging and found the factory components on gmpartsdirect.com. The total cost is $108, and here are the required part #'s.

 

#84482763 Wiring Harness (w/o rear heated seats) 

 

#84505586 Upper Trim Panel

 

#84002462 Wireless Charging Module

 

The only thing I'm not 100% is whether or not there would be any firmware requirements, or if it is a simple plug and play situation.

  • Like 3
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 3/1/2020 at 8:49 PM, Fyreman97 said:

This is how I decided to do it for now. Want to wire it in so I don't lose the USB port on the dash.

 

5C128D57-0738-4175-94DB-788BFC6FF977.jpeg

AD75A2A1-7982-4591-A59B-C76FCB947BE7.jpeg

Did you ever get it hard wired in or did you just leave it plugged into the USB port?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,214 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...