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I just did this mod, so far so good, I used the 5 coil version and soldered splices into the 12v in the rear of the console and used a 12v to 3amp/5v step down converter.  It works pretty well but the factory unit has more "distance" to its charge, but the 5 coil charges faster.  Replacing the rubber mat with something thinner would work better.  Between that and adding a courtesy lamp to illuminate downward into the console from the lid when open the console is much better now. 

 

IMG_1889.thumb.jpeg.9b1de0245b437f63c55ff62620085fc3.jpegIMG_1900.thumb.jpeg.013b7a415d80bf73613f7a3629172b24.jpeg

 

One tip for 19/20's as I found it hard to find this info (in fact I thought I found it in this thread), is to get into the rear of the console, you remove the rubber cup holders (they just pull up) then there's a torx screw to remove which allows the plastic molded cupholder part to be removed by pulling it straight upward, then there's another torx screw that can be removed, and then the rear console panel pulls rearward. 

 

For those that have 20's and I assume 19's and are worried about the battery drain there is a 50 amp fuse on the passenger side that has 2 positions (3 spades) if you move it you can have the 12v ports work as if they are accessory power instead of always powered.    Fuse in question is circled in red, and it's current position is always powered. 

 

IMG_1899.thumb.jpg.07e3139be95cb0ee53f8fda8ff9a1160.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So to clarify a few things for those who want to take this on... 

 

? I would give it a 2 out of 10 as far as difficulty...  

 

Under $50 investment to add this to the console lid...

 

This is the charger I used.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PYQQ1R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

4 screws under rubber pads and the plastic shell will separate.  I took and reversed the screws to hold the board to the back cover as it was a much cleaner look.

 

I also used some t-taps that I had similar to this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087PPW7CK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I directly taped into the 12v cigarette lighter in the console using this adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y4PD3N3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

To tap into the lighter area you will need to remove the rubber cup holders (very easy to tug off) and then remove 2 x T15 Torx bolts one on top take the cup holder trim up and it will expose the 2nd bolt directly center  then the back will simply pull out as its held with simple body clips.

 

I used a 5 minute epoxy that worked perfect for this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044F9KFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Hardest part was removing the plastic but a good set of pliers or Dremel tool will make quick work.  

 

Hope this helps others prepare to do this and it works perfect with the dc to dc converter supplying a higher voltage to the charger.  No issues with it not charging.

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  • 4 months later...
On 10/28/2020 at 2:39 PM, Pyrojodge said:

So to clarify a few things for those who want to take this on... 

 

? I would give it a 2 out of 10 as far as difficulty...  

 

Under $50 investment to add this to the console lid...

 

This is the charger I used.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PYQQ1R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

4 screws under rubber pads and the plastic shell will separate.  I took and reversed the screws to hold the board to the back cover as it was a much cleaner look.

 

I also used some t-taps that I had similar to this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087PPW7CK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I directly taped into the 12v cigarette lighter in the console using this adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y4PD3N3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

To tap into the lighter area you will need to remove the rubber cup holders (very easy to tug off) and then remove 2 x T15 Torx bolts one on top take the cup holder trim up and it will expose the 2nd bolt directly center  then the back will simply pull out as its held with simple body clips.

 

I used a 5 minute epoxy that worked perfect for this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044F9KFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Hardest part was removing the plastic but a good set of pliers or Dremel tool will make quick work.  

 

Hope this helps others prepare to do this and it works perfect with the dc to dc converter supplying a higher voltage to the charger.  No issues with it not charging.

I did your mod and it works perfectly. Thank you. 

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So I tried doing this mod over the weekend. I have an iPhone 12 Pro with a thin case on it. I used the same 5 coil charging pad that everyone seems to be using. I used pliers to snap off all those little ribs so I could get the charger as close to the lid as possible. I just used duct tape to hold it in place temporarily and then put that interior cover panel back over it so I could close the lid fully. When I put the charger against the console lid, with the top cover removed so the coils are exposed, my phone won't start charging. I tried moving the phone around the extra space of the recess that I could and it never picked up the charging. If I laid the phone directly on the charger it worked, so I know the charger isn't defective. I didn't tap into any wiring when trying this out because I wanted to confirm it would work before doing all of that, so all I did was plug the charger into the USB port inside the console. That couldn't be the cause of my phone not charging through the console lid, could it?

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On 10/28/2020 at 1:39 PM, Pyrojodge said:

So to clarify a few things for those who want to take this on... 

 

? I would give it a 2 out of 10 as far as difficulty...  

 

Under $50 investment to add this to the console lid...

 

This is the charger I used.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PYQQ1R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

4 screws under rubber pads and the plastic shell will separate.  I took and reversed the screws to hold the board to the back cover as it was a much cleaner look.

 

I also used some t-taps that I had similar to this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087PPW7CK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I directly taped into the 12v cigarette lighter in the console using this adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y4PD3N3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

To tap into the lighter area you will need to remove the rubber cup holders (very easy to tug off) and then remove 2 x T15 Torx bolts one on top take the cup holder trim up and it will expose the 2nd bolt directly center  then the back will simply pull out as its held with simple body clips.

 

I used a 5 minute epoxy that worked perfect for this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044F9KFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Hardest part was removing the plastic but a good set of pliers or Dremel tool will make quick work.  

 

Hope this helps others prepare to do this and it works perfect with the dc to dc converter supplying a higher voltage to the charger.  No issues with it not charging.

I assume this will work for my situation even though it is a little different. I have a 2020 Custom Trail Boss and recently took out the jump seat and installed a full center console. The back usb ports and lighter are dead and do not have the option to plug in the harness I ordered. The power module under the console doesn't have another slot to plug in (so, if anyone has ideas for that, that would be great). I am wondering if I can tap into the front lighter wiring and have the wireless charger in the little catch all area in between the console and dash, directly under the lighter/usb port area? 

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On 3/8/2021 at 8:09 AM, Tribefan77 said:

So I tried doing this mod over the weekend. I have an iPhone 12 Pro with a thin case on it. I used the same 5 coil charging pad that everyone seems to be using. I used pliers to snap off all those little ribs so I could get the charger as close to the lid as possible. I just used duct tape to hold it in place temporarily and then put that interior cover panel back over it so I could close the lid fully. When I put the charger against the console lid, with the top cover removed so the coils are exposed, my phone won't start charging. I tried moving the phone around the extra space of the recess that I could and it never picked up the charging. If I laid the phone directly on the charger it worked, so I know the charger isn't defective. I didn't tap into any wiring when trying this out because I wanted to confirm it would work before doing all of that, so all I did was plug the charger into the USB port inside the console. That couldn't be the cause of my phone not charging through the console lid, could it?

Based on how you tested, and what someone else already tested, it simply doesnt get enough power from a USB port.  12v lighter to USB or 12v tap seem to be the only way to get enough power.

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4 hours ago, Jim E said:

Based on how you tested, and what someone else already tested, it simply doesnt get enough power from a USB port.  12v lighter to USB or 12v tap seem to be the only way to get enough power.

So you're saying the USB port might have enough juice to power the charger for normal use, but not enough juice to power it enough so that the strength of the charge can resonate through the console lid? I just figured if it's on and working, then it should work through the lid as well. Perhaps I was wrong.

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Earlier in this topic someone else tried using one of these charging pads with USB and it would light up, but not charge.  And based on the fact that those that have even directly connected a phone to one of these USB's for charging, have commented that it's a slow charge,  it's likely safe to say these are low power (ie: old standard USB2) ports.  If you want to test, before further hacking, you could use a new cigarette lighter power adapter that provides fast charging for your phone.  Otherwise, several others have provided confirmed parts.

 

As to your direct question, yes, it's been noted that they work better before they are placed under the lid and rubber trim. 

 

 

I'm eyeing the front tray myself as it would make it easier (at least in my opinion) to lay for charging (and be viewable), and to connect to USB for Android Auto.

Edited by Jim E
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The greater the distance between the charging pad and the phone, the less power the phone receives from the pad.  And the same goes for misalignment between the phone (and specifically, the wireless charging "area" of the phone) and the charging pad.

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Used this converter with dual USB

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081NCXB2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Why not go a bit farther with the wireless charging if you have this amazon tray for the center console.  Pull the yootech charger apart and screw the lid to bottom of tray.   Then reassemble from the bottom and plug into 2nd usb. Wireless airpod charging inside console.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081W9FHHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KZ49PJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

IMG_6774.jpg

Edited by bchamble
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  • 1 month later...

I completed this mod this evening. I have the Samsung Note 20 ultra and it charges without a case, but not with a case on. I'm sure it's just too thick.

 

I should have tested the charger prior to installing, but it doesn't connect as a "fast charge" as it states on the box.

 

Kind of bummed about both the inability to charge with my case, and it slow charging.

 

No harm done in doing it, but honestly not sure if it was worth the time and money. I don't forsee me actually using it now because of the drawbacks. 

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1 hour ago, NightcrawlerZ71 said:

I completed this mod this evening. I have the Samsung Note 20 ultra and it charges without a case, but not with a case on. I'm sure it's just too thick.

 

I should have tested the charger prior to installing, but it doesn't connect as a "fast charge" as it states on the box.

 

Kind of bummed about both the inability to charge with my case, and it slow charging.

 

No harm done in doing it, but honestly not sure if it was worth the time and money. I don't forsee me actually using it now because of the drawbacks. 

Can you thin out/remove material in the console between the charging pad and the phone? Ideally, the phone should rest on the pad, everything between it and the phone reduces how well it works.

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I completed this mod this evening. I have the Samsung Note 20 ultra and it charges without a case, but not with a case on. I'm sure it's just too thick.
 
I should have tested the charger prior to installing, but it doesn't connect as a "fast charge" as it states on the box.
 
Kind of bummed about both the inability to charge with my case, and it slow charging.
 
No harm done in doing it, but honestly not sure if it was worth the time and money. I don't forsee me actually using it now because of the drawbacks. 


I have a Samsung Note 9 and ran into a similar issue with my case. Can't charge it, but it's because my case is too wide. My phone won't sit flat in the charging cradle. I almost pulled the trigger, but waited until I could check fitment in another truck. I feel your pain.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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10 hours ago, davester said:

 

Can you thin out/remove material in the console between the charging pad and the phone? Ideally, the phone should rest on the pad, everything between it and the phone reduces how well it works.

I've thought about that as well. And may try to do so another day. 

 

I just wish I had tested it prior to install to see if the issue with slow charging, was a charger issue, or if maybe it's not getting enough power from the truck. 

 

I'm glad I did the screw method of installation, rather than epoxy. Just in case I figure out a fast charge solution down the line

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