Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 3/31/2020 at 5:30 PM, alexistence said:

Since I guess it's been a couple of weeks now, have you noticed any drain on your battery that would be more than leaving a phone charging inside? I would like to run it hot and I hate that the USB won't charge my phone with the engine off.. which is a terrible design flaw if you ask me. I'd like to be able leave the phone on the console and have it charging while I'm at work.

Nope, no noticable battery drain.

Posted (edited)

I just ordered this wireless charger which others on this forum have installed (I think...) in the center console lid. 

 

CHOETECH Dual Fast Wireless Charger, 5 Coils Qi Certified Double Wireless Charging Pad

 

here is the issue:  the charger works when I plug into the wall outlet. When I plug into the USB in the center console the light comes on but does not charge when a phone is placed on it. I tried a regular charging cord plugged directly into the phone and it charges, so it is not the USB outlet in the truck.  I did this without mounting it, just loose on the center console, so it is not the thickness of the lid and cover on the phone that prevent charging. 
 

any suggestions?
 

thanks for the help!

 

 

EE0DF257-87CB-413D-BFBA-03405E53ED71.png

Edited by pschne1
Add more info
Posted (edited)

The USB on the dash probably doesn't carry enough voltage or watts to run that thing. It charges phones slow...

 

I bet it carries enough to power the LED on the device, but not enough send power to your phone. Try to hard wire it??

Edited by alexistence
Posted
2 hours ago, alexistence said:

The USB on the dash probably doesn't carry enough voltage or watts to run that thing. It charges phones slow...

 

I bet it carries enough to power the LED on the device, but not enough send power to your phone. Try to hard wire it??

Hard wiring is an option, but would prefer to avoid having to tear apart center console. I am wondering if getting a USB C to USB C cable would work. The plug on the charger is a UBC C but the other end of the cable is the old, larger USB connector. I see cables with USB C on both ends available. I wonder if there is more power supply using the USB C jack in the console?

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, pschne1 said:

Hard wiring is an option, but would prefer to avoid having to tear apart center console. I am wondering if getting a USB C to USB C cable would work. The plug on the charger is a UBC C but the other end of the cable is the old, larger USB connector. I see cables with USB C on both ends available. I wonder if there is more power supply using the USB C jack in the console?

The built in USB ports didn’t provide enough power to effectively power up the coils in my charger mod either.   Run a hot wire into the console and use a quality 12V USB adapter to power the charging pad.   
Also - you don’t have to tear apart the center console to run a wire, you can easily tuck a wire up under it, and the rear of the console (where the vents are) comes off extremely easily, so you can access the inside of the console.  

 

Edited by romclean1
Posted
19 minutes ago, romclean1 said:

The built in USB ports didn’t provide enough power to effectively power up the coils in my charger mod either.   Run a hot wire into the console and use a quality 12V USB adapter to power the charging pad.   

Even plugged into the smaller USB-C outlet?  I thought those charge faster. 

Posted
12 hours ago, pschne1 said:

Even plugged into the smaller USB-C outlet?  I thought those charge faster. 

The only way to know for sure is to test with a meter. I bet that they are both the same though. 

Posted
On 3/1/2020 at 8:49 PM, Fyreman97 said:

This is how I decided to do it for now. Want to wire it in so I don't lose the USB port on the dash.

 

5C128D57-0738-4175-94DB-788BFC6FF977.jpeg

AD75A2A1-7982-4591-A59B-C76FCB947BE7.jpeg

Which wireless charger is that?  Looking for one that I can just plug into the USB port and not hardwire in. 

Posted
1 hour ago, pschne1 said:

Which wireless charger is that?  Looking for one that I can just plug into the USB port and not hardwire in. 

It was from Amazon. It says currently unavailable

FASTPAD Ultra-Slim Qi Wireless Charger PU Leather Wireless Charging Pad for iPhone 11 Pro iPhone X XR XS MAX / 8/8 Plus 7.5W Fast Charging, Water Resistant, No Heating (No AC Adapter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0793TJ9YR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ds7IEbSG37WGF 

Posted

I have a 2020 Silverado LTZ without wireless charging, I was wondering if you bought a new console insert with the wireless pad is the factory wiring underneath to plug in? That would be the way to go for a factory look.

Posted
5 hours ago, John DiLauro said:

I have a 2020 Silverado LTZ without wireless charging, I was wondering if you bought a new console insert with the wireless pad is the factory wiring underneath to plug in? That would be the way to go for a factory look.

 

I have a 19 TB. I ended up using this wireless charger:

CHOETECH Wireless Charger, 3 Coils Qi Certified 10W Max Fast Wireless Charging Pad, Compatible iPhone 11/11 Pro/11 Pro Max/Xs Max/XR/X/XS/8/8 Plus, Galaxy Note 10/S20/S20+/S10/S10E, AirPods Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2CWBS1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zp2KEbMZYJ09C

 

i took the top off and epoxied it to the underside of the center console. The inside of the center console pops right off and i ran the wire out by the hinge.  I hid the wire and plugged it into the USB in the center console.  I tested it and it works perfectly.  Strong connection even if you slide the phone around in the center pocket on the armrest (I have an iPhone 10 Max).  Phone gets slightly warm when in there for an extended amount of time. I had to drive 1.5 hours yesterday and it was in there and charging the entire time even when using Waze.  All in I spent $20 and about an hour (once I found a wireless charger that the USB port in the truck could power). I assume that buying the factory parts would be way more expensive and do not know if the wiring is already there. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 4/3/2020 at 4:00 PM, pschne1 said:

I just ordered this wireless charger which others on this forum have installed (I think...) in the center console lid. 

 

CHOETECH Dual Fast Wireless Charger, 5 Coils Qi Certified Double Wireless Charging Pad

 

here is the issue:  the charger works when I plug into the wall outlet. When I plug into the USB in the center console the light comes on but does not charge when a phone is placed on it. I tried a regular charging cord plugged directly into the phone and it charges, so it is not the USB outlet in the truck.  I did this without mounting it, just loose on the center console, so it is not the thickness of the lid and cover on the phone that prevent charging. 
 

any suggestions?
 

thanks for the help!

 

 

EE0DF257-87CB-413D-BFBA-03405E53ED71.png

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08336XQR9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V71NQ19/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I had the same issue.  Found this adapter for the cigarette lighter and has higher output.  Then invest in some right angle usb/usb-c plugs.  I didn't know that middle piece came up like that on the console.  I might have to try relocating mine underneath like what you have pictured.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have been looking into adding wireless charging to a 2020 LT Trail Boss. It took a little digging and found the factory components on gmpartsdirect.com. The total cost is $108, and here are the required part #'s.

 

#84482763 Wiring Harness (w/o rear heated seats) 

 

#84505586 Upper Trim Panel

 

#84002462 Wireless Charging Module

 

The only thing I'm not 100% is whether or not there would be any firmware requirements, or if it is a simple plug and play situation.

  • Like 3
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 3/1/2020 at 8:49 PM, Fyreman97 said:

This is how I decided to do it for now. Want to wire it in so I don't lose the USB port on the dash.

 

5C128D57-0738-4175-94DB-788BFC6FF977.jpeg

AD75A2A1-7982-4591-A59B-C76FCB947BE7.jpeg

Did you ever get it hard wired in or did you just leave it plugged into the USB port?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m out of ideas on this truck. 2020 Silverado 1500. 5.3 135,000 miles. Has a p0308 and p050d codes. Smokes From exhaust when cold. Compression test passed. New plugs, wires and coil on cyl 8. Same issue. New coil on 8, no change. Replaced injectors, no change. Bore scope showed oil pooled on the piston after sitting overnight. Pulled head and had machine shop check it out. No cracks. Stem seals looked good, replaced anyways. He also ground valve seats. Put it all back together and still have the same issue. Bore scope shows oil on the piston again. Leaning towards maybe a cracked ring but unsure. Cylinder looked good when the head was off, no scoring or scratches. Any ideas on what else I should look for?  Appreciate the help 
    • Just want to make sure it is covered by Special Coverage N232395310 Evaporative Emission Purge Pump 2021 Silverado 1500 Custom 2.7L L3B ~100k miles I'm getting DTCs P146B and P146F. VIN 3GCPWBEK2MGxxxxxx   I spoke to a person that works at GM and he said it is not covered after checking my VIN.   Is there anyone here who currently works for a GM/Chevrolet dealership and has access to GM Global Warranty Management / Investigate Vehicle History who could explain how the VIN eligibility is determined?   thank you    
    • Thanks for all that information, I might purchase one and see if it will work for me, if not they may let me return it! Yes for sure the tires are definitely within limit for my truck empty, and when I do tow I'll definitely make sure to raise the rear psi for the amount of weight that's going to be on it.
    • Yes exactly, more and more these days people/companies are afraid of liability issues so its easier just to say no rather than risk putting their neck on the line.    I will say with the Autel unit or when I used it last year on my truck, it wasn't like I could choose the 2025 model year or even the 2024 model year as that option was not there to manipulate the placard pressures but had to go back to 2023 or there abouts and then it showed up as an option, odd but that was how the software was then and I can't say one way or the other now as they throw out updates every so often. I still would talk to your tire dealer though to start with and they may do it for nothing but also they may have a comment on a better unit to purchase. All I know is that one of the large tire shops in my area happens to use these Autel units for their use and set them up to use the wifi and all of that jazz for constant updating because each tire tech has one handed to them by the shop but I just plugged it into my laptop to update it and yes if one is bought it has to be registered so you can get the link to do updates and then the unit has to be updated before its even used. I am not at all techy so it took me a bit but anyway just a heads up for anything you buy, most likely it will need to be connected to a computer to access the internet to have it updated to the latest software version before you can put it to use.   If your truck is near empty, those tire pressures you listed are a very safe upper range pressures to carry the weight, both the front and rear as I know they could be run lower yet with an empty truck. And if its a trailer and not some motorcycle your going to strap onto the front of your truck on a rack, you shouldn't have a need to inflate your front tires if your at 55 front already, its the rear ones that would need more air if you have much hitch weight. 
    • Thank you, I'll check that Autel scanner out and see if it will work for me! Ya I can see GM's point of view if they lower the psi set value for someone and the person sell's the truck and the new owner puts the factory tires back on then their could be liability issues cause the psi warning light wasn't coming on when the tires were under inflated for towing their load and then it might be able to be traced back to GM lowering it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...