UCA replacement....strut removal?

Jeff5347 · March 25, 2019

Like the question says I'm looking to replace my uca with new ones from RC. I have a motofab 3 in level and reinstalling the strut was a bitch when leveling it the first time. My concern is do I need to remove the strut or can I get the cam bolts out with the strut still in place. If no need to remove I can do it right in the driveway if I have to i may need to bring it down to the garage

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dcarl · March 25, 2019

I have the RC UCAs. I don't think you want to attempt doing it without removing the strut. For one, you'll want to mark your alignment cam locations at all 4 points before you remove the old ones. I think the bolts will hit the spring on their way out. I looked at a picture I took of my Eibach spring and it looks like the front bolt would run right into it. With my coilovers, I think there is room to remove the bolts...

You may also want to cut out the service perch (bump stop) while you're in there to allow the new arm more down travel.

Jeff5347 · March 25, 2019

That's what I was thinking that I would need to remove it. Not impossible just a pita. How do you like the new arms. Does it ride better, feel smoother, ect .

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Bash74 · March 25, 2019

What part is a pain to do. I ask because I find taking the strut out and putting it in the same regardless if it is stock or not.

HeySkippyDog · March 25, 2019

What part is a pain to do. I ask because I find taking the strut out and putting it in the same regardless if it is stock or not.

Not exactly.

If it's a longer strut or if there is a spacer up top, it doesn't just go back in without a struggle. Stock height is easy.

You have to use one of your strut compressors on the outboard side and crank it tight enough to let the lower strut flange land on top of the LCA if your strut is a longer one or if you used a spacer.

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Snowcamo · March 26, 2019

Not exactly.

If it's a longer strut or if there is a spacer up top, it doesn't just go back in without a struggle. Stock height is easy.

You have to use one of your strut compressors on the outboard side and crank it tight enough to let the lower strut flange land on top of the LCA if your strut is a longer one or if you used a spacer.

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Could you guys with longer struts/spacers not use the same Jack in the bottom of the strut to lift it back on the lcas? I did with the bills easy money. Lifted it up and slid it over. It stops on the humps on the lcas. Then I lined up the bolt holes with a Phillips screw driver. At first i thought it would lift the truck up but nope.

HeySkippyDog · March 26, 2019

Could you guys with longer struts/spacers not use the same Jack in the bottom of the strut to lift it back on the lcas? I did with the bills easy money. Lifted it up and slid it over. It stops on the humps on the lcas. Then I lined up the bolt holes with a Phillips screw driver. At first i thought it would lift the truck up but nope.

I tried using a floor jack to push it, but in my case, the entire truck was coming up.

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Snowcamo · March 26, 2019

I tried using a floor jack to push it, but in my case, the entire truck was coming up.

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Well darn that is a bear of a job. Sucks

Bash74 · March 26, 2019

Not exactly.

If it's a longer strut or if there is a spacer up top, it doesn't just go back in without a struggle. Stock height is easy.

You have to use one of your strut compressors on the outboard side and crank it tight enough to let the lower strut flange land on top of the LCA if your strut is a longer one or if you used a spacer.

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Have done multiple ones in the shop, and it is not a struggle at all, especially with tie rod and upper ball joint apart from spindle.

FlipZ71 · March 26, 2019

Just now, Bash74 said:

Have done multiple ones in the shop, and it is not a struggle at all, especially with tie rod and upper ball joint apart from spindle.

Agreed , i just replaced my lower ball joints and driver side axle shaft , bearing n seal last Saturday.... had no trouble getting it back on

dcarl · March 26, 2019

18 hours ago, Jeff5347 said:

That's what I was thinking that I would need to remove it. Not impossible just a pita. How do you like the new arms. Does it ride better, feel smoother, ect .

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I did the UCAs the same time I did the new coilovers and the ride is fantastic. The ball joint is flat so it has plenty of articulation in each direction.

Jeff5347 · March 26, 2019

I installed my level at the shop on a lift as well. Will probably die the same this weekend once I receive the arms. I'm sure I'm over complicating what I did previously by thinking to much into it. Definitely looking forward to getting this done and feeling t by e difference

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HeySkippyDog · March 27, 2019

Have done multiple ones in the shop, and it is not a struggle at all, especially with tie rod and upper ball joint apart from spindle.

But as DIY, you don't want to disconnect the tie rod or upper ball joint. We're not working in a shop. It's a driveway.

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HeySkippyDog · March 27, 2019

Sorry if I posted in the wrong forum, apparently this is the shop forum.

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HeySkippyDog · March 27, 2019

Agreed , i just replaced my lower ball joints and driver side axle shaft , bearing n seal last Saturday.... had no trouble getting it back on

That is in no way shape or form as simple as compressing your strut on one side to reinstall. Let's be real here chief. You just did a balljoint job, not strut only.

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