Jump to content

Dented Rear Bumper, can it be fixed?

Imcrazy

Recommended Posts

NE18 Enthusiast

NE18

Posted
Posted

I accidentally backed into someone in a tight parking lot and found the limits of the camera! No dents but the bumper was slightly pushed in on one side. It bothered me for a little but the pain did pass. If the bumper continues to be an issue for you I would go aftermarket... get something a little more substantial. 

2018GMC Senior Enthusiast

2018GMC

Posted
Posted

These bumpers are made out of one step up from tin foil.

 

My rear bumper was pushed in on passenger corner but thankfully didn't hit the rear quarter panel. I pulled it back straight with a ratchet strap around a stump and 1% throttle.

 

I still have a small dent in bumper and it used to bug me, but after a few months you learn to live with it.

 

I keep an eye out on craigs and local junkyards but all of them I have seen either don't have the backup sensor holes or have a dent in the same place as my current bumper.

mcdavis Enthusiast

mcdavis

Posted
Posted

I have a very similar dent...can barely see it, so I don't care because it's a truck (and yes, I like my truck and take care of it). I know you said you're anal about your truck, and I fully respect that. But, to me, there are much better ways to spend $400-$500 on your truck. Your back bumper has the potential to be damaged again. I'd wait and see if it continues to bother you in a month.

 

However, if you are going to change it regardless, I like the idea above to look into something aftermarket. Might find something you like better.

MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted

Am I missing something here?  These new bumpers aren't at all like the chrome bumpers of the old days. 

 

Isn't that just a chrome-plated tin backed with plastic piece?  You just buy that chrome cover piece and replace it, while the rest of the bumper stays on the truck?  Mine is 2-piece instead of one piece, but I have had the ends replaced that way.  

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted
Just now, MaverickZ71 said:

Am I missing something here?  These new bumpers aren't at all like the chrome bumpers of the old days. 

 

Isn't that just a chrome-plated tin backed with plastic piece?  You just buy that chrome cover piece and replace it, while the rest of the bumper stays on the truck?  Mine is 2-piece instead of one piece, but I have had the ends replaced that way.  

Thr bumper assembly has to come off the truck to replace the chrome bumber "shell". Its not like the old days when the bumper was solid and could take a hit. These thin shells are crap. The best thong about them is the chrome. There's a bunch of squeeze clips and bolts that need to be removed to get to that shell.

Imcrazy Senior Enthusiast

Imcrazy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the feedback guys.. I found a local guy with a nice bumper for $300, I'm going to swap that in

and then try to sell the slightly damaged one to someone with better skills than I have for body work...

 

I find it pretty disappointing how these things aren't really bumpers anymore... I figured 1-2mph vs drywall and 2x4 studs I would have broken the stud before I dented the damn bumper! I thought about an aftermarket bumper but, those look to be close to 1500 and I don't love the look...

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted
46 minutes ago, Imcrazy said:

Thanks for the feedback guys.. I found a local guy with a nice bumper for $300, I'm going to swap that in

and then try to sell the slightly damaged one to someone with better skills than I have for body work...

 

I find it pretty disappointing how these things aren't really bumpers anymore... I figured 1-2mph vs drywall and 2x4 studs I would have broken the stud before I dented the damn bumper! I thought about an aftermarket bumper but, those look to be close to 1500 and I don't love the look...

Nice! I just sold my painted rear that was scratched really bad for $100

Imcrazy Senior Enthusiast

Imcrazy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, Snowcamo said:

Nice! I just sold my painted rear that was scratched really bad for $100

Nice! The guy I bought this bumper from is the body shop manager for a local GM dealer and he said that #1 I wouldn't be able to fix the dent, he actually pointed out how the whole bumper was creased from the impact and even if I could bend it back out he said the chrome would spider web... #2 he said the sensors in my bumper are about $100 each x 4 so I could easily sell the bumper OR just the sensors for $200 in his opinion... So we shall see...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I think we're reaching the end of constant projects/work.   The water pump bolt appears to have self-sealed, as it's not leaking anymore. I'll take it, and, I'm ready should it self-unseal! I was also getting an oil leak at the front oil pan seal and timing cover and came to find a pan bolt on the corner wasn't even finger-tight. Too easy. And, it was. But, it appears tightening it has reduced a leak producing spots on the ground every time I parked, to just a weep, leaving an occasional dot on the cardboard that lives under it while parked. That's acceptable on a 30 year old engine in my book. I do hate leaks, but, replacing the pan seal is quite the job.   The rear washer line is reconnected and the sprayer works, although getting an intermittent washer fluid drip off the bottom. I think it's just residual...the reservoir filled up the channel in the rear floor and drained down into the upside-down spare tire/wheel. So there are residual puddles all over under there, will wait a few days for it to spill out and dry before I go chasing a potential leak.   The door speaker...no dice. Speaker works just fine, it's that channel in the factory amp that's gone bad. Can't win 'em all. And, whomever buys this will probably tear out the factory radio for something more modern anyway.   I put about 110 miles on it yesterday. Put a lot of wind and heat into it with some mountain driving. Still runs great. Near the top of the pass I got off on a gravel side road and put about 10 miles on with 4hi engaged. Works great.   If ya squint, she's mint! God I wish these were still in production. I can see why they're not. They're rudimentary bordering on agricultural. They began life as a pickup truck and then modern society demanded the rear be enclosed for kids and crap. They're still a pickup underneath, and that gives them lots of ride character, sway and bounce and bump steer. They're alive on the road, and, at least for purposes of nostalgia, it makes driving one a lot of fun.   The Check Engine light did come back on the pass, P0134 for the upstream O2 sensor dropping out. Putting heat into the exhaust causes it after about 10-15 seconds of increased load at higher RPM. The downstream sensor is completely mangled (someone clearly had a rough time removing it, but they didn't replace it?) so I'll just put two in it. For what, mostly to cure the CEL, I can tell the cat is damaged. It's not plugged or fractured, but it's not catalyzing. There's some guilt in not fixing it, but at a cost of $500+, the truck just won't get driven much under my watch. I dislike the smell...running the truck in the shop even with both doors open and the overhead fans blasting, I still reek of pre-cat exhaust. Sticks to clothing and everything else.   Window motor (I'm dreading this), and tires, and that should be about it. 50/50 on Starfire Solarus H/T's, or spending $20 more per tire and going with Cooper Discoverer RT's. I like the look of the RT's a lot more, but is it worth it? I've got a really good (just very old) Toyo Open Country XTX on there now and I like it.  
    • tjonesdfw
      Shift to Park Message Warranty Claim

      By tjonesdfw · Posted

      From what I've seen, they "could" sell the switch but designed the assembly such that the switch can't be readily removed and replaced without removing a plastic locating pin.  Sure appears aimed at forcing the end user to purchase a $900 shifter assembly instead of a $20 switch.  Thankfully I still have some extended warranty left...  this one has had warranty repairs almost every 5K miles from the day I bought it.  
    • ENJOYLIFE22
      Adding GM factory trailer brake controller

      By ENJOYLIFE22 · Posted

      did anyone get this figured out?
    • tjonesdfw
      2021 with Intermittent AC Cooling Issues

      By tjonesdfw · Posted

      I'm well aware of the typical bathtub failure curve, but plotted, this truck has been more like an elevated straight line.  It started days off the lot with misfires that GM couldn't solve for almost 2 years, and steadily continued over the last 5 years with repeat replacements of wiring harnesses, camera modules, cameras, parking sensors, head unit, rear windows, rear leaf springs and bushings, lower control arms, a radiator, and now an ac compressor and a column shift assembly.  
    • mosierpat
      The truck is connected to the internet? 5g LTE to group network 2018 canyon

      By mosierpat · Posted

      It was a commercial vehicle at one point. I went through all the menus and see nothing. But ill look at mygmc.com. Thank you  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...