Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm scheduled to have the Xpel film protection installed week after next. I'm think about only doing the front bumper. Has anyone else gone this route? Thanks

Posted

Buddy did his whole trailboss for almost 3k. Yes he has money. A lot of it 

 

Posted

Im a PPF tech and I did full truck.  It definitely adds  extra gloss touch and Protection. Not sure if you guys can tell the difference on this pic (top of rear bumper has film and bottom didn’t at that moment). 

 

I suggest you to go with the thickest film available lat the shop you getting it done . Good luck!

626E1316-01E4-403C-AE81-7C1282401FAA.jpeg

Posted

I have it all over my truck. Entire front clip, roof, door sills, tailgate, rockers, doors, and rear bumper. In my opinion it’s worth it. If I was gonna get the whole truck done it Would of cost almost 6k. But that for 3m pro series. My installer uses xpel software as he says it’s the best in the business. 

Posted

I’m pissed that I didn’t do it to my truck, my front bumper and hood is all chipped up already at 6k, I’m debating on having it painted then getting it covered up. 

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, eppieguy said:

I’m pissed that I didn’t do it to my truck, my front bumper and hood is all chipped up already at 6k, I’m debating on having it painted then getting it covered up. 

How are the front fender extensions holding up after 6K. I'm not going to the extent that others have done but want some protection where chips are most likely to happen.

Posted
1 hour ago, Off_Trail said:

How are the front fender extensions holding up after 6K. I'm not going to the extent that others have done but want some protection where chips are most likely to happen.

So far they are fine, but maybe they haven't got hit the same? I don't know, but I haven't noticed any chipping on them. It's only the front bumper and hood, each of my fenders have chips as well nut one is from a shopping cart and I'm pretty sure the other is from road debris. 

Posted

Is this a problem with the RST also?

I am close to ordering one.

if you had it to go over would you order the LT with chrome?

I can not afford 3K to wrap.

Posted

Wrapped my entire truck with 3M Pro Series Matte paint Protection. Then added the extended paint warranty.IMG_20190507_183026.jpeg

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk

Posted
On 5/5/2019 at 10:31 AM, Off_Trail said:

I'm scheduled to have the Xpel film protection installed week after next. I'm think about only doing the front bumper. Has anyone else gone this route? Thanks

I initially was going to do just the bumper and ended up doing a mini kit on the hood, front bumper and the air vent things on the side. I’m extremely glad I did the hood. About a week after I had it done I took a really hit of a rock that made a tiny dent, but didn’t break through the Xpel. Had I not did the hood, I’d have  a nice size rock chip. 

 

Since i I first had it done, the came out with a grill kit. I have had it applied as well. 

Posted

So you have done the whole front and hood?

May I ask what did all of that cost?

What are you thought on front fenders or quarter panels also?

8 hours ago, Cmillerjr said:

I initially was going to do just the bumper and ended up doing a mini kit on the hood, front bumper and the air vent things on the side. I’m extremely glad I did the hood. About a week after I had it done I took a really hit of a rock that made a tiny dent, but didn’t break through the Xpel. Had I not did the hood, I’d have  a nice size rock chip. 

 

Since i I first had it done, the came out with a grill kit. I have had it applied as well. 

 

Posted
55 minutes ago, Snuff said:

So you have done the whole front and hood?

May I ask what did all of that cost?

What are you thought on front fenders or quarter panels also?

 

The guy I go to has his own machine to cut the patterns so he charges what is on the xpel website. Some people charge the website price plus $25 for each star of difficulty. In all I paid about $750. 

Posted

The bumpers chip really easily, I had 5 chips in 30,000km on my K2 that never leaves pavement and I don't ride peoples @$$. I doubt it will help much besides small chips but worth a shot, the paint is so thin on these things a strong breeze will peel it off. My 2010 had the box painted in 3 years from new, now the 2014 WT I have is stripping on the wheel wells, hood and roofline. We don't have to worry about rock chips anymore, even a grain of sand or a pebble is enough to open a hole in this garbage paint to let moisture in underneath. I would Xpel the whole thing if you plan on keeping the truck 5-8 years. Otherwise you will have to repaint it. GM's truck paint has been crap since the water-based paint came in and screwed our lives up.  

 

If we could use oil base and had a real frame coating I would be a happy camper, but the days of vehicles lasting 10-20 years are long dead, bad for profits. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,920
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Frank V
    Newest Member
    Frank V
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,346 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...