Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 3/9/2021 at 3:07 AM, dram1983361 said:

On a 2wd it's not as critical since there is no front axle shaft that could potentially hit/rub on a bottom mount if you go with 2"+ lift blocks. You could go with either or both depending on how high you go. More than 3" I believe (someone who's done it correct me if I'm wrong) you will want to consider getting new upper control arms.

Bottom mounts are a little easier to install since you don't have to remove the struts. You should still get the alignment checked regardless of which type of level you use as well.

Makes sense. I appreciate the insight! Still trying to learn the ins and outs of this truck!

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I have read through all 35 pages and didn't see the answer to a question I have. 

 

I have a 2020 Denali and just installed Motofab 1.5" front leveling blocks. The kit did not come with the ARC relocation bracket, nor is it shown anywhere on Motofabs site (other companies supply them with a 2" lift). My question is, do I need the brackets (I don't have any dash sensors lighting up) or will I be okay without them? I have called and emailed the company, but they are not responding. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Looking for some help here: I have a 2019 crew LT z71. I want to level but avoid any nose up. Planning to do eibach adjustable shocks. My question is getting the level height right. When comparing to many on the threads (non trail boss or at4) my factory stance seems much different in existing rake and ride height. Currently ground to rear measures at 38 7/8 and front 37 3/4. Roughly 1 1/8” different. Same tire to fender rear 7 1/4 and front 6 1/2. I have about 20k mi so maybe some settling in. I’m concerned the adjustable setting on the shocks putting me at 1.7” could get me nose high. Of course I could add a block to the rear though trying to get it right with the front level. Were others this close on ride height and successful with a 1.5” or in this case 1.7” level? There is one lower setting on the eibach, but doesn’t seem right to do all the effort for .07”. Welcoming any helpful input here. Thank you. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey everyone.  I just traded in my 2015 1500 4x4 for a 2021 Z71 RST.  We also recently purchased a 25ft travel trailer that I'll be pulling every month or so with this truck.

 

My old truck had 2" level, and at some point I'd like my new one to sit a little higher as well.  However, since I will be towing with it I want to maintain the factory rake (which is just under 2").  Even with the WD, the back end drops a little more than the front.

 

I was thinking of making the upgrade functional instead of just cosmetic and doing Blistien 5100's up front and setting them for a 1.5-2.0" level, rather than just adding spacers.  I was going to go with the 5100's for the rear as well to help with towing and adding a block as well to lift the same amount as the front.

 

Any issues with this approach, or is there another option I should be considering?  Is there a better option for the rear than the Blistien 5100's plus a block?

20210904_093615.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/22/2021 at 2:06 AM, Brandon Martin said:

Is it better to use the leveling "pucks" that go on top of the strut or the brackets on bottom?

If you are 4WD, then pucks that mount on top of the strut for sure.  If you are 2WD then the location is irrelevant.

Posted
On 9/21/2021 at 4:09 PM, malibu43 said:

Hey everyone.  I just traded in my 2015 1500 4x4 for a 2021 Z71 RST.  We also recently purchased a 25ft travel trailer that I'll be pulling every month or so with this truck.

 

My old truck had 2" level, and at some point I'd like my new one to sit a little higher as well.  However, since I will be towing with it I want to maintain the factory rake (which is just under 2").  Even with the WD, the back end drops a little more than the front.

 

I was thinking of making the upgrade functional instead of just cosmetic and doing Blistien 5100's up front and setting them for a 1.5-2.0" level, rather than just adding spacers.  I was going to go with the 5100's for the rear as well to help with towing and adding a block as well to lift the same amount as the front.

 

Any issues with this approach, or is there another option I should be considering?  Is there a better option for the rear than the Blistien 5100's plus a block?

20210904_093615.jpg

That will work fine.  Check out the Eibach Pro Truck lift.  It provides springs as well as shocks and the difference in handling is significant.  My truck pulls a trailer much nicer now and handles greater weights without the sway and pontoon effect.

Posted

This is my 2019 AT4 leveled with Bilstein 6112’s and 2” MotoFab top spacers. It initially was 3/4” high in the front but after 100 miles settled to perfectly level.

04E74569-96DF-49DC-91C1-BE0785B4968D.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/20/2021 at 1:47 PM, Bullseye07 said:

Has anyone done the fox 2.0 coilover kit? 

I tried to get a Fox 2.0 kit last month, but I couldn't find them in stock.  I ended up with Icon Stage 1 instead.  Extremely happy with ride quality and off road performance.  (I'm only 2WD, so nothing muddy or too difficult...just fast dirt trails)  It sits little high in front...maybe because it is 2WD and light in the nose, so I'm going to block it up 1" in the back.  

Posted
2 hours ago, Seagate Life said:

I tried to get a Fox 2.0 kit last month, but I couldn't find them in stock.  I ended up with Icon Stage 1 instead.  Extremely happy with ride quality and off road performance.  (I'm only 2WD, so nothing muddy or too difficult...just fast dirt trails)  It sits little high in front...maybe because it is 2WD and light in the nose, so I'm going to block it up 1" in the back.  

I was originally planning on bilstein 6112s and 5160s but they’re out of stock everywhere. The fox 2.0 were only a little more and in stock so went ahead and ordered them. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Has anyone leveled an AT4 with rear shackles and has photos? I went through all 35 pages and only saw a few shackle levels but none were AT4s that I could tell.

Posted

I just purchased the 1 inch cognito leveling kit.  I know most of you want 1.5-2 inches, but for my eyes 1 inch looks right.  I will be installing later this week or weekend.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 500 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...