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2019 factory fog lights

Itsjustme
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BronzeSierra Enthusiast

BronzeSierra

Posted
Posted
On 1/5/2020 at 3:14 PM, Shady McTaylor said:

I'm getting ready to do this in a few days.  I had a quick look and the fuse for the fog lights is already there.  Does anyone know if that means I just need to plug the lights into the harness our do I still have to mess with the underside of the fuse box ( step 18-25)?

The instructions call out to verify if circuit is present in (X5 Brown) cavity 10, circuit 1317(BN/WH). If so, this eliminates the need to run the jumper to the UEC, the rest still applies.

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Eds240z06
Eds240z06

I purchased mine from Gmpartsdirect eBay store 249.50 shipped. This is a gm oe part. Bought many times from them with no problems. Attached is the install instructions.    2019 silverado fog

Itsjustme
Itsjustme

Here's a pic of the two different switches. The left switch is what came with my truck. The right is what came with the kit.

Itsjustme
Itsjustme

I got mine directly from the dealer but only because I redeemed the myChevrolet points so I ended up not paying anything out of pocket for them.

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BronzeSierra Enthusiast

BronzeSierra

Posted
Posted
On 1/20/2020 at 12:54 PM, Raider1975 said:

For the ones that did not need the jumper wire. Would you be willing to sell me yours? My wifes little pup got in the garage and chewed it up. Get a dog they said. It will be fun they said.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Julio13 Enthusiast

Julio13

Posted
Posted

Anybody else with extra jumper cable when dealer installed it they did it above the motor instead of under dash so would like to do it right if anybody has an extra laying around


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  • 1 month later...
Weaverstreet Enthusiast

Weaverstreet

Posted
Posted

I purchased mine on Ebay for $189.00 and I just don't feel that comfortable with all that hacking into the electrical systems on the truck. I installed the lights on the truck immediately just for the looks and I'm really considering just connecting them to the headlights. I never shut the fog lights off in my Mustang so I don't imagine I would in my truck either. If you look at the instructions one should be able to modify the new harness to use the power from the right headlight to have them come on with that headlight. My only concern is that the fuse may blow and I should add a relay to prevent that. The hacking into the electrical would be much less involved for those who would say you are still hacking into the electric. 

  • Like 1
sharkman Enthusiast

sharkman

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 3/22/2020 at 1:08 PM, Weaverstreet said:

I purchased mine on Ebay for $189.00 and I just don't feel that comfortable with all that hacking into the electrical systems on the truck. I installed the lights on the truck immediately just for the looks and I'm really considering just connecting them to the headlights. I never shut the fog lights off in my Mustang so I don't imagine I would in my truck either. If you look at the instructions one should be able to modify the new harness to use the power from the right headlight to have them come on with that headlight. My only concern is that the fuse may blow and I should add a relay to prevent that. The hacking into the electrical would be much less involved for those who would say you are still hacking into the electric. 

 

I kind of agree with you.  The factory harness connects both right and left fog lights to the left head light, then only one wires goes to the UEC. Is that wire only for a signal to turn the fog lights on using power from the headlights?  

 

Does having it flashed from the dealer only program the new switch and dish symbol?  

 

Seem to me that some simple mods to the factory harness would turn the fog light on with the headlights.  No need for the new switch or dealer flashing.  

 

Just a theory

 

 

 

 

Edited by sharkman
  • Like 1
Weaverstreet Enthusiast

Weaverstreet

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, sharkman said:

 

I kind of agree with you.  The factory harness connects both right and left fog lights to the left head light, then only one wires goes to the UEC. Is that wire only for a signal to turn the fog lights on using power from the headlights?  

 

Does having it flashed from the dealer only program the new switch and dish symbol?  

 

Seem to me that some simple mods to the factory harness would turn the fog light on with the headlights.  No need for the new switch or dealer flashing.  

 

Just a theory

 

 

 

 

From the looks of the instructions and the kit's new harness a simple cut and splice and then the fog lights  would receive power from the headlight. Per the instructions you disconnect the factory plug to the headlight and plug it into the new harness which another plug on the new harness then plugs into the head light. Being that everything is LED. I'm thinking that the amp draw may not be an issue.

  • 2 months later...
GravelPitsYew Enthusiast

GravelPitsYew

Posted
Posted (edited)

Question: I just bought the fog light kit. If I install the new dash buttons module, install all the wiring/harness/everything and I don't go to dealer right away to flash the BCM portion, will the new dash buttons still work (minus the fog lights button)? Just wondering if I'll still be able to press the headlights button to drive at night until I take the truck in to dealer to do the BCM crap. 

 

BTW, I was quoted from closest 4 dealers $180-225 just for BCM flash (with me doing the harness install). I almost went the Gen5diy route ($165 for "off high-beam" harness before tax) but it's about the same cost so going the dealer route. 

Edited by GravelPitsYew
  • 2 weeks later...
GravelPitsYew Enthusiast

GravelPitsYew

Posted
Posted
On 1/17/2020 at 5:54 PM, Julio13 said:

For those of you who installed yourselves I’m stuck in part of taking fuse box apart in engine bay I loosen the four bolts where fuses are but cannot separate to get in the uec dealers in Miami are charging me from 450 to 495 plus tax just for that one cable and programming would love to be able to do myself any pictures videos or ideas would be appreciated

 

 

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Holy hell, I had a great time (not!) doing this portion. Anyhow, I don't know how a simple man gets underneath the green Body Connector 2 box to swap the pin connectors with their fingers either, but I pulled it off.

1. Harness kit lone wire pin connector: First, I had to peel back a few inches on the harness kit's plastic casing around the lone wire to get enough "lone" wire up into the green box.To feed in the new wire pin from underneath up into the green connector box, I pried apart it's plastic sleeve casing opening underneath and fed the wire up into the green box.  

2. Once you free the 4 tabs on the green box and lift it up the mere .75" you can then "UNLOCK" THE WHITE PORTION OF THE GREEN BOX (shown with arrow in this photo, and was the big turning point once I figured that out) which is actually 2 separate locks for the pin connectors (one the front, one for rear of the green box). You wedge a small flathead screwdriver in and pry it open. For the B3 connector do it on the side closest to car battery.

 

3. To release the B3 pin connector that's currently in the B3 position, (if you don't have a "wire connector removal tool") insert 2 small paperclip ends into the B3 opening from the top of the green block and push down equally to release the pin clips holding it in. I had to use both the paperclips and then a very small screwdriver to push down in the center to free the wire pin altogether at once.

 

4. There was still no way for me to get underneath to plug in the new pin connector, as it's so tight, so I ended up feeding a small string down the B3 connector cavity from above the green box, gathering it from underneath and tying it to the new pin connector to be inserted. I pulled up on the string from above the B3 cavity and at same time I kept it straight using a very small flathead screwdriver going down thru the top of the B3 cavity (screwdriver fits into the wire pin) to guide it up. Once the wire connector was 1/4 in the hole the correct angle I cut the string and then used needle-nose pliers to grab and lift the wire connector up until it clicked into position.

 

Hope this helps! I was at a loss until I figured out the white locking portion of the green box. 

Screen Shot 2020-06-22 at 6.19.00 PM.png

  • 1 month later...
awsm66 New Member

awsm66

Posted
Posted

I need some help on this.  I may have missed it but have been searching and cant find it.

I bought the kit form GMpartsdirect off ebay.  I did not have an authorization code in the box though.  There is a serial number on the outside of the box along with the GM original parts sticker but nothing that says authorization code.

 

Is the serial number the number I need to give the dealer?  How many digits are the authorization code?

 

I sent them an email but not sure how long it will take to get a return response so figured I would ask here.  Thanks for any help.

 

 

  • 7 months later...
Windagetray New Member

Windagetray

Posted
Posted

If anyone is still looking at this topic, I have an interesting dilemma. There are pins in both the B3 AND in the C3 pin holes in the green block under the hood. The one in C3 is BN/WT however, there were no BN/WT wires at all in the BCU under the dash. I installed the wire in the brown connector in what I believe is pin 10 and ran the wire through the blasted "grommet" in the firewall (what a pain in the @$$). Any way, when I got to the ECU connector, BOTH pin holes have something in them! I understand I can remove the one from B3 but what about the one in C3!!!?????

  • 1 month later...
Cryogizer Enthusiast

Cryogizer

Posted
Posted

I am in the process of installing mine as well. Mine came with a generic style wiring harness with a relay already wired up just needing a power source to the relay and to a switch. My thought is to just power the relay and find the power wire going to the low beam headlight or parking light circuit and tap into that wire so they will come on that way. From other articles I read that’s basically how the gen 5 kit does it but uses I plug in line instead of tapping a wire. Has anyone done it this way and know what color wire would be for either or both. 

  • 4 weeks later...
98whitelightnin New Member

98whitelightnin

Posted
Posted

I just got done installing a pair I got from the dealer in my 2021. The brown plug under the dash already had a wire in it so I didn’t have to run the jumper wire. The only problem I had was removing the wire from the green box under the hood without the proper tool. I finally got it by getting rowdy with a pick. I’m pretty sure it was the first truck my dealer had activated and charged me $85 for the flash. All and all a fairly easy instal and I’m happy with the end result. 

  • 1 month later...
RG1 New Member

RG1

Posted
Posted
On 8/11/2019 at 10:25 AM, Brutus230 said:

I had my flashed at the dealer, someone said in this post you can do it your self I would like to know how.  

Can you tell me what the dealership did to get the fog light indicator to work? I had mine installed at the dealer but they are telling me that GM is saying the indicator will not work if not originally installed. They told me they updated all the software (BCM?), but that did not change anything.  

dgstarr63 Enthusiast

dgstarr63

Posted
Posted

My dealer installed the fog light kit on  my 21 LT and was not able to make the indicator work. I purchased a small round 12 v LED from Amazon and drilled a hole in the lower left dash. I hooked one wire to the power feed to the left fog lamp and the other wire to ground. Works great.

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