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Help - Fog lights on custom

TBHiker
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TBHiker Enthusiast

TBHiker

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$165 is an ok price. My dealer charged  $235 to install and flash. I used my rewards coupon from buying the truck toward the install.

 

Nice to have them in and working. When you turn off the auto lamps and hit the fogs, just the fogs and parking lights come on. Looks good! 

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TBHiker
TBHiker

I spoke with the shopchevyparts where I purchased the kit. They told me that many dealers are making the mistake of programing the BCM the old way instead of calling a specific number and giving them

sse1990
sse1990

I have the same problem.  During install, it mentions if there is a wire on the bcm connector on circuit 10, then there is no need for the jumper.  I went to the dealer twice now, first time for the i

sse1990
sse1990

In the attached pictures, the small brown connector is what is in the BCM under the dash.  Mine already had a brown/white wire so the instructions said I didn’t need the jumper.  In the other pictures

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sse1990 Enthusiast

sse1990

Posted
Posted
On 2019-07-02 at 5:35 PM, TBHiker said:

I spoke with the shopchevyparts where I purchased the kit. They told me that many dealers are making the mistake of programing the BCM the old way instead of calling a specific number and giving them the VIN and code included in the kit. Hoping that was is the issue. I will be going back next week.  Hope you have better luck. 

Do you happen to know the number they are supposed to call?  I’m betting my dealer is still doing it the “old” way, which is why my dash light doesn’t come on.

  • 4 months later...
swing4terps Enthusiast

swing4terps

Posted
Posted (edited)

So the Chevy dealer closest to me has had my Sierra for now 7 hours and have been unsuccessful in getting the fog lights to work. I did the install of everything except the depinning of the wire on the UEC and connection of the harness wire.

 

I forgot to provide them the programming code that came with the kit, but they said they were able to obtain one from GM. Even so, they can get the indicator on the dash to illuminate but not the lights themselves. Seems others have had the same issue. They have already charged me $130 for the programming and another $50 for labor in trying to rectify the issue. They are tracing wiring apparently; something I told them wasn't necessary. But no one wants someone else to tell them how to do their job. 

 

It's now Thanksgiving eve and they want to keep the truck till Friday. I told them I'd rather pick it up because I was planning to get a Xmas tree Friday AM. They said I would have to pay the $180 to take it with nothing working. What a deal, right!? 

 

Does anybody else that had a similar experience have specific instructions on what to do to get this fixed? I'm confident it's an issue with the programming and they are confident they know how to do the programming. 

 

Thanks in advance. 

Edited by swing4terps
swing4terps Enthusiast

swing4terps

Posted
Posted (edited)

An update. They finally got the lights to work. According to them, “programming” requires that they install a jumper wire. I took a quick peak at the BCM and saw nothing additional, so I assume the jumper is related to the UEC. 
 

I was a bit surprised to hear this and frankly it doesn’t sound right, but if the lights work I guess I don’t really don’t care. 

Edited by swing4terps
  • 2 weeks later...
mbfireboat Enthusiast

mbfireboat

Posted
Posted

For those of you that did this, what did you do with the B3 wire that was in the UEC already? The instructions seem to say to just take it out and tape the end with electrical tape? It seems like this wire should be doing something?

 

I also had the brown/white wire at the BCM already so I did not do the jumper wire through the firewall.

 

Thanks

 

  • 1 month later...
IamEnzothebaker Enthusiast

IamEnzothebaker

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just had the dealership install the oem fog lights on my 2019 Trailboss. Looks like I am running into the same issue as a lot of people. The lights work , but no fog indicator on the instrument cluster.

From what I am reading (correct me if I am wrong) it has to do with the programming of the BCM? I want to make sure when I go back to the dealer I don’t get jerked around.

Any input would be appreciated.

Edited by IamEnzothebaker
Julio13 Enthusiast

Julio13

Posted
Posted
For those of you that did this, what did you do with the B3 wire that was in the UEC already? The instructions seem to say to just take it out and tape the end with electrical tape? It seems like this wire should be doing something?
 
I also had the brown/white wire at the BCM already so I did not do the jumper wire through the firewall.
 
Thanks
 

What did you do with jumper wire if you have it laying around I’ll take it if your hands if you want to sell it


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Julio13 Enthusiast

Julio13

Posted
Posted

Anybody with the extra jumper I’ll take it off you hands dealer did a real crappy job with mine please let me know thanks


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  • 4 months later...
GravelPitsYew Enthusiast

GravelPitsYew

Posted
Posted
On 7/11/2019 at 4:32 PM, sse1990 said:

In the attached pictures, the small brown connector is what is in the BCM under the dash.  Mine already had a brown/white wire so the instructions said I didn’t need the jumper.  In the other pictures, the green connector is what you open and the wire gets installed from underneath.  I had to remove a wire from B3 position to be able to install the wire from the kit.  I did not have to remove the wire from C3 since that is the brown/white wire already installed.

 

Also I just tested the pre-installed brown/white wire and I have continuity.  So I do not need the single jumper wire provided in the kit.

 

21DA6006-9282-4942-9BD1-28E253712530.jpeg

B35DABF4-7570-491F-8B40-A65F280259A3.jpeg

1C2BA2C0-C31F-440E-8E0A-071535C09007.jpeg

On the UEC, how did you pull the green "body 2 connector" so far apart to be able to see underneath it/access it? According to your photo here, mine is pulling away maybe 1/3 the distance as yours. 

  • 3 weeks later...
gmtech2014 Enthusiast

gmtech2014

Posted
Posted
On 7/2/2019 at 5:35 PM, TBHiker said:

I spoke with the shopchevyparts where I purchased the kit. They told me that many dealers are making the mistake of programing the BCM the old way instead of calling a specific number and giving them the VIN and code included in the kit. Hoping that was is the issue. I will be going back next week.  Hope you have better luck. 

If the fog lamp indicator did not light up previously and now does, they programed the BCM correctly.

  • 3 months later...
jnissen Enthusiast

jnissen

Posted
Posted

I'm fighting the same thing right now. Dealership was unable to program the BCM after three hours so I left it with them. Is there some instructions or tech help I can refer them to? I installed the lights this weekend and the one jumper wire running to the switch was not needed as I already had that wire in the BCM connector. I did manage to lift and remove the B3 pin and get the new wire put in place of the existing wire. Hoping they figure this out quickly.

 

 

BTW - on the UEC and gaining access to the underside. Yes it’s difficult. I had to remove the piece that holds the split loom in order to turn it for seeing under.

 

You have to remove that white lock insert on the left side of the connector and use a two prong tool to push old connector out if ones already present. New wire fits fine. Just reassemble the connector lock. The one area I struggled was the large split loom was nearly impossible to open and suck in the new wire and loom. I elected to take a Dremel tool and slotted the bottom mount to allow the fog light wiring to exit the bottom of the UEC and not try to shoehorn in the existing cable. That way the split loom holder can go back like original and you support the lower wire harness properly.

jnissen Enthusiast

jnissen

Posted
Posted

Update. Only took them 2.5 days to get it done! I now have fog lights and yes the icon on the dash lights up! Winning - finally!

  • 2 months later...
Tim Cogley New Member

Tim Cogley

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just installed an aftermarket set of OEM style foglights on a 2020 silverado.  I just simply ran the power from the battery to the relay, ground to a bolt on the body near the fuse box under the hood and used a fuse tap on the running light fuse, connected to the relay switch wire.  

 

They come on with the running lights and turn off with the running lights. 

Edited by Tim Cogley
  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
rami2096 New Member

rami2096

Posted
Posted
On 7/11/2019 at 6:32 PM, sse1990 said:

In the attached pictures, the small brown connector is what is in the BCM under the dash.  Mine already had a brown/white wire so the instructions said I didn’t need the jumper.  In the other pictures, the green connector is what you open and the wire gets installed from underneath.  I had to remove a wire from B3 position to be able to install the wire from the kit.  I did not have to remove the wire from C3 since that is the brown/white wire already installed.

 

Also I just tested the pre-installed brown/white wire and I have continuity.  So I do not need the single jumper wire provided in the kit.

 

21DA6006-9282-4942-9BD1-28E253712530.jpeg

B35DABF4-7570-491F-8B40-A65F280259A3.jpeg

1C2BA2C0-C31F-440E-8E0A-071535C09007.jpeg

I came across the same issue as you. Did you find out what that wire controls?

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