Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Yes spacers were essential as it does rub without. No vibrations noted however..rides great. Studs plenty long. Was a little bothered by having to run spacers but got such a good price on wheels i got over it. BTW I think I saw where EBay had same price listed for what I got for...$790 to my door. Also read somewhere where an installer grounded calipers down ALOT after buying and researching/disecting an oem caliper and had no ill effects. Forgot where I read this. Hope this helps.

Edited by Trevor Munsell
Posted
On 1/5/2020 at 9:11 AM, Bamatruck said:

2019 Sierra AT4 

4” BDS Lift

35X12.5r20 Trail Grapplers

20X9 Mavericks +19 offset

Borla S-Type ExhaustECBB16F4-8387-4488-8247-F95C6DE6919D.thumb.jpeg.5277efa8da4661b160825ca62dc812ee.jpegBBFBE462-C6AA-4664-B387-6EB0E29AF7C0.thumb.jpeg.23a9c5d401b8f3daea59af39469edaf5.jpegF849EDD7-B1BE-4992-A37F-187601D578ED.thumb.jpeg.ac7dee80e8409a59cba122a85ad76fe8.jpegD84E104F-5254-4CF8-8644-68DB9564055A.thumb.jpeg.463ec13df5fddfcb5f2fd4e9e1adf406.jpeg

Looks awesome.  I have the same truck and am looking at the exact same lift & tires but I fear the truck wont fit in my garage with the new setup.  Any chance you could measure and let me know the height from ground to highest point on your truck?  Would seriously help me decide.  Also, any rubbing or trimming needed?  Thanks!

Posted
On 10/3/2019 at 1:02 PM, Opiedeegs said:


Eight coats just peeled off the overspray


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good. I just got my at4 and won't be changing the tires/wheels probably for a few months. I'm curious as to how these have held up? Any updated pics? 

Posted
On 4/22/2020 at 10:08 AM, loud_pipes said:

ReadyLift SST, Atturo Blade XT 305/55/20 (33x12.5), Moto Metal MO970 20x10 with 0 offset

991e784d7dd1d263ba13ce3d27a5bd14.plist118874e57086df09a6a99311aa0877b5.plist991e784d7dd1d263ba13ce3d27a5bd14.plist


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Thank you!  This is the EXACT info I'm looking for.  I want a different rim but these specs. Are you happy with the sst kit? Any trimming or rub?

Did it sacrifice any ride quality?  Lastly did this mess with your mpg's?  

Once I read about the at4's and auto 4wd issues as well as added stress on truck I got nervous.  Lots of misinformation out there.  

Tia!

Posted

Michelin LTX AT2 LT275/65/20. 2” Rough Country level front and 2” block rear. 81255ae1ae994573f45309ed72fc62eb.jpg
Rides fantastic. No rubbing. No trimming. These should last another 75k miles until an upgrade to a 4”.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
Thank you!  This is the EXACT info I'm looking for.  I want a different rim but these specs. Are you happy with the sst kit? Any trimming or rub?
Did it sacrifice any ride quality?  Lastly did this mess with your mpg's?  
Once I read about the at4's and auto 4wd issues as well as added stress on truck I got nervous.  Lots of misinformation out there.  
Tia!


I’m very happy with this kit. I would certainly recommend it, including the new UCA’s. Ride quality has not been compromised at all - my wife could not tell the difference and she typically prefers a smooth ride. This is very smooth, just like OEM.

No trimming. Very, very minor rub in the front wheel wells at full turn. But it is so slight that I have not needed to do anything to correct it. I am about 1,000 miles in on these tires and it all but stopped with that minimal of tire wear.

I ran this kit with the stock wheels and it had zero impact on gas mileage. When I went to the larger and heavier 305/55/20 setup, I lost about 1-1.25 mpg. Small sacrifice for this setup IMO.

So far, I have not experienced any auto 4wd issues, but I only used that setting 2x after I installed the SST.

I installed the SST myself, on my garage floor. It took about 5 hours, mainly because the time it took me to compress the struts.

Hope that helps!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks!  Definitely helped. I have been all over the net looking for straight answers regarding this set up. Sounds exactly like what I need to do. Do you know your backspacing?

Posted
Thanks!  Definitely helped. I have been all over the net looking for straight answers regarding this set up. Sounds exactly like what I need to do. Do you know your backspacing?


I know the offset went from +27 stock to 0 with my Moto Metal wheels. But I don’t have the backspacing off hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Thanks 1
Posted
15 minutes ago, Ryan Howard said:

Thanks!  Definitely helped. I have been all over the net looking for straight answers regarding this set up. Sounds exactly like what I need to do. Do you know your backspacing?

Hey Ryan,

 

A 20x10 with a +0 offset will be a 5.5" back spacing. If you're looking for that specific set up PM me and I'll send you a link with options.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
26 minutes ago, loud_pipes said:

 


I know the offset went from +27 stock to 0 with my Moto Metal wheels. But I don’t have the backspacing off hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

yea from what I've read the negative offsets is when you run into more issues. 

Posted
Looks good. I just got my at4 and won't be changing the tires/wheels probably for a few months. I'm curious as to how these have held up? Any updated pics? 

Never put them back on the truck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
6 hours ago, Texanfisherman said:

Michelin LTX AT2 LT275/65/20. 2” Rough Country level front and 2” block rear. 81255ae1ae994573f45309ed72fc62eb.jpg
Rides fantastic. No rubbing. No trimming. These should last another 75k miles until an upgrade to a 4”.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where did you buy the 2" lift blocks from?

Posted
Where did you buy the 2" lift blocks from?

 

I bought them from Rough Country as well. The were a little hard to find on their site, but they are tapered part # 6592 and do a good job. You’ll have to buy the new u bolts. I already had some from a previous truck, so they worked. I also bought the aluminum level kit part # 1313.
  • Like 1
Posted

Got the rims a week ago and had intentions to run the stock tires for a bit. Couldn't handle the stock tires and pulled the trigger today on some Duratracs.

Stock size at 275/60/20. Crazy...but they rub a little bit on passenger side full lock in reverse. 

 

Rims are Fuel Rebel 20x9 +1 offset.

 

20200515_172910.thumb.jpg.217c56f6d60e3062578b95de99080a4c.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
13 minutes ago, Trza said:

Got the rims a week ago and had intentions to run the stock tires for a bit. Couldn't handle the stock tires and pulled the trigger today on some Duratracs.

Stock size at 275/60/20. Crazy...but they rub a little bit on passenger side full lock in reverse. 

 

Rims are Fuel Rebel 20x9 +1 offset.

 

20200515_172910.thumb.jpg.217c56f6d60e3062578b95de99080a4c.jpg

So what's the tire size now?  And what leveling kit did u do?  I'm looking at the ready lift sst with those wheels n specs with a 305/55r20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...