Another Collapsed Lifter

Jer2015CC · August 15, 2019

I know there are tons of these posts but just want to share so it is known another collapsed lifter in the #7 cylinder happened. Just over 48,000 mi on a 2015 and no previous issues before, have had it since brand new, no towing, and change the oil (albeit at the dealer with their average oil) regularly. I was in town cruising at about 35 in v4 approaching a light when it turned yellow. I accelerated slightly and heard a loud thump come from the engine as v8 engaged and accelerated. At the next light, i noticed the rough idle and flashing check engine light.

When I brought it into the dealer the Service Adviser was, let's say just say was in a bad mood. I let him know the symptoms and gave my guess that it was the AFM that probably caused a collapsed lifter on number 7 given the countless other accounts I've seen and read on this. Immediately he says, "never heard of that, it's probably a bad injector. We see that all the time. And that is part of the emissions system so it's not covered under warranty." I told him to let the technician tell us what it is and go from there and I just left. Wasn't in the mood to argue with him Guess what, next day I get a call that the diagnosis is a collapsed lifter in #7. They had it a little over 2 weeks and luckily there was no damage to the cam. They replaced all lifters on the left side, gaskets, etc.

Those that have had this done, is there a higher risk of it happening again? Lower risk? Not enough data? I have an extended warranty on it so it it doesn't make sense to get rid of it before 7 years (2022) or 72,000 mi. Based on my current driving, I'll probably hit the 72K a few months before the 7 years so still have some time, but anyone get rid of theirs over this? Obviously it has lowered my faith in the long term durability. I've had a couple buddies get the new Rams and they love them but I see that the MDS in the Hemis has run into the same issue of collapsed lifters. How much is it to swap out to the non-AFM cam?

Thanks All.

1SLOW1500 · August 15, 2019

I would take the free fix then plan on a cam vally plate and lifter swap before 72,000.
Most people will say just drive it and get you money worth out.
Your can it is all a crap shoot.

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midwestdenaliguy · August 15, 2019

I think it's all over the board for those who keep the AFM feature on after repair - some never had it happen again while others had it happen twice. Crap shoot like 1SLOW1500 said. Two things you can do: 1. AFM delete through tuning/programmer or 2. delete the AFM function mechanically through new cam, etc. Second option will be much more expensive and could void your extended warranty. I could have missed it, but I have not seen a lifter issue return for those who deleted the AFM feature through tuning or mechanical changes.

HeySkippyDog · August 15, 2019

You can buy a Range device and plug it in. Way cheaper and way easier than changing lifters or actual tuning.

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1SLOW1500 · August 15, 2019

This is why at 3600miles I disabled my afm/dod fuel shutoff and added a catch can.
I have read dozens of claims,posts,and messages about this.
As always everyone is going to have options but fact is there are issues so why not take steps to prevent or at least slow down the issues?

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Jer2015CC · August 15, 2019

Any recommendations on devices to disable? Do I have to buy a tuner and that is one of the options on menu?

Baytrucker · August 16, 2019

3 hours ago, Jer2015CC said:

Any recommendations on devices to disable? Do I have to buy a tuner and that is one of the options on menu?

Yeah. I put this on a little over a month ago and it works like a charm

2017 Sierra 1500 5.3L V8

https://rangetechnology.com/afm-disabler/

Over 2000k later, and according to the economy computer, I've actually improved gas mileage. I do mostly city driving.

Even if the lifters in this truck weren't garbage, I would recommend this device. It has drastically improved the way my truck operates, especially in low speed situations like parking lots and heavy traffic. The transmission seems to get confused less often and can actually decide what gear it wants to be in. I still get that clunk when downshifting between 3-2, but when my power-train warranty is up I'm going to do a full tune to hopefully fix that, disable AFM for good, and raise my idle over 550rpm to prevent the surging that is apparently common with the 5.3.

If your lifters are already gone outside of warranty, then I would go as far as to do a full delete, which includes a new cam. If you take out of all that AFM garbage, the vortec/ecotec gasoline engines are actually second to none, and the engine will likely outlast the truck.

If you are getting a range device, I would buy directly from range to ensure you get the latest firmware/model. I've heard stories about older stock being sold on Amazon which still have bugs that were resolved years ago.

paumat · August 16, 2019

What is this job costing people at the dealer — replacing all lifters on one bank when you’re out of warranty?

Baytrucker · August 16, 2019

40 minutes ago, paumat said:

What is this job costing people at the dealer — replacing all lifters on one bank when you’re out of warranty?

If they are off warranty, I would hope people are smart enough to not get it done at the dealer. Out-of-warranty work at dealers is usually drastically overpriced. Any mechanic worth his salt is not just going to replace a single bank if the lifters go. Get them all done. And when you get them all done, you might as well get the AFM deleted entirely.

I've seen prices ranging from $2000 to $6000. I can't remember specifically where I saw it, but I seem to remember someone posting that they were recommended just to drop in a new engine

It is not a small repair. I'm surprised there isn't a class action about this.

HeySkippyDog · August 16, 2019

The range device is pretty awesome. If you're able to run E85, full V8 function + E85 is one sweet setup. You'll get 15 mpg at best, but boy does it run.

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300 Blackout · August 16, 2019

I used AutoAnything’s house brand “TruXP” tuner to turn off my AFM. It was $200 and turns out it’s a rebranded SuperChips tuner. (TruXP didn’t offer a Mac compatible software updater, so I went to SuperChips website and used theirs to update my device).

Aside from being able to turn off AFM, I like the other options that come along with having a canned tuner rather than a dedicated AFM delete device, however, I’m out of warranty so I don’t mind making use of those extra features.

Unless you personally examined the cam, I wouldn’t be so sure it wasn’t damaged. I can think of at least one member here who had the exact same problem. He finally pulled his cam sometime after the repair and found it was damaged after all.

Even if you were to mechanically delete the AFM parts, you still need to turn it off in the computer. Melling has a video which contests the theory that the lifters are the cause of the failure. They explain it’s a VLOM/programming issue which causes the lifters to collapse. If it were me, I’d just turn off AFM on the computer and start researching what performance cam I want to install at 72,001 miles.

Jer2015CC · August 16, 2019

Thanks all for the info on the AFM disabling devices, I think I'll go this route. It's just a bummer because pre-direct inject, AFM, and these ever confused 6-speeds (I used to have a 2002 1500 with the 4.8 and auto 4 speed) chevy was bullet proof. I heard of far less issues at least. I guess all in the name of better efficiency (*sarcasm). It's just crazy in my mind that these AFM delete programmers and AFM delete cam kits even need to exist.

Oh, forgot to mention I'm in beautiful, sunny California and I see the Range Tech device is currently undergoing CARB certification...guess I can always unplug when it comes time to SMOG.

Thanks again!

300 Blackout · August 16, 2019

Thanks all for the info on the AFM disabling devices, I think I'll go this route. It's just a bummer because pre-direct inject, AFM, and these ever confused 6-speeds (I used to have a 2002 1500 with the 4.8 and auto 4 speed) chevy was bullet proof. I heard of far less issues at least. I guess all in the name of better efficiency (*sarcasm). It's just crazy in my mind that these AFM delete programmers and AFM delete cam kits even need to exist.

Oh, forgot to mention I'm in beautiful, sunny California and I see the Range Tech device is currently undergoing CARB certification...guess I can always unplug when it comes time to SMOG.

Thanks again!

A quick fix that you may want to read about is unplugging the brake booster vacuum sensor. You’ll get a warning about servicing the brakes/booster, maybe a MIL, but as far as I’ve read, it won’t allow the truck to enter AFM and won’t impact the operation of your brakes.

I don’t have any first hand experience with this method but quite a few people out there have posted about it.

EDIT 10/28/19: This method does not turn off AFM on my 2014 Sierra 1500.

no12nv · August 30, 2019

i did the range afm plug in. love it. saw it in the gm performace dept at my dealership. asked about it. was told its warentee approved hence why they sold it. i got mine on amazon 80$ cheaper than them.. works great. i just take it out when i go in for service.. just incase..