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Okay guys, first time poster and I'm needing some help. I recently bought a 2007 new body style sierra z71. The truck has a slight vibration that begins around 55ish and stays there, even up to the shut off of 98mph... doesn't seem to get any worse, if it does is only slight... heres what's been done. Vibration was there with the old tires which were 16 years old according to the date codes. So I had brand new tires put on, along with new upper control arms, and had an alignment performed, no change. Truck looks to have new brakes and rotors on front as well as a new hub on drivers side. Passenger cv boot was torn and had some play so I removed itand disassembled it and reinstalled the stub,  no change. Spun drive shaft 180° just in case, no change. Although I did notice one u joint cap was missing a needle, didnt see it onthe ground or still on the cross pin so idk what's going on there... but I packed the caps with grease and installed, no change. The vibration is there whether I'm on the gas or not, in neutral and coasting, still there. Foot to the floor, still there with no change. Doesnt change when turning, no noticeable vibrations in the steering or brake pedal. Mainly feel it in the seats and all my mirrors shake. I did notice when I bought the truck that it had an apparent blow out before I bought it, it has the OEM aluminum wheels(17s)... any help would be appreciated... blow out warp the rim? That rim is on the front but I dont feel anything in the steering... missing needle bearing in u joint? And suggestions?

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If it were mine, I'd go ahead and slam some new U joints in there, especially with a missing needle and go from there. 

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Could just be the driveshaft itself. Some others have documented this on newer trucks, no reason why the 2007's would have perfectly balanced shafts.

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I was curious about the beam shake I had been hearing about. But idk if this one would have it. Its an 07 but it's the new body style not the classic. I'm gonna check the wheels and if they look good next step will be trying to get the shaft balanced and new u joints. It's not a major vibration,  just an annoyance. 

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So after work I got home and jacked up all 4 corners of the truck spun and checked for any out of round on the wheels. One wheel seemed to have a little bit on the outer edge but nothing to extreme, even swapped my spare with that rim and went for a drive, no difference. So I jacked up the rear of the truck and let it idle in gear and watched as my driveshaft spun, towards the front where it slips into the transmission I could actually see a small amount of run out and could even feel if I let my fingers lightly rest on it as it rotated, if I slid my fingers down to around the center of the driveshaft the feeling almost went away. Being that maximum driveshaft run out is .005 to .010 one would think you couldn't see that with the naked eye. So my next step is to set up an appointment at a driveline shop about an hour from me and have the run out checked and balanced as well as new u joints. Sure hope that's the issue, I do love this truck. 

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A little bit of an update, yesterday after work I hauled a complete 4.8 engine block for a buddy at work and with the wieght of that engine in the bed of the truck it made my vibration worse. Didnt seem to change the frequency,  just made it worse. So I'm figuring with that it may be something in the driveline...

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4 hours ago, Matthewsteven1989 said:

A little bit of an update, yesterday after work I hauled a complete 4.8 engine block for a buddy at work and with the wieght of that engine in the bed of the truck it made my vibration worse. Didnt seem to change the frequency,  just made it worse. So I'm figuring with that it may be something in the driveline...

The original engine mounts are fluid filled for vibration dampening.  They eventually leak and of course the driver's side is usually the first to fail.  Consider replacing those and the transmission mount.

 

I was leaning towards the driveshaft since your first post until you mentioned it getting worse with a load on and this is what I would do.

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I've replaced the engine mount already, done that this past weekend. And there wasnt any signs of any fluid leaking from then either. I figured it got worse with the load due to changing the angles of the u joints slightly combined with the already existing issues. But... then again that's why I'm here. Bc I dont know. 

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So took the driveshaft to the driveline shop today, he said the driveshaft was fine, only had .010 run out and wasnt out of balance. But he did install 2 new Spicer greaseable u joints for me. So if that doesnt fix it then I'm back to the drawing board... 

 

Could the level kit up front be enough to disturb the driveline angle on the slip yoke u joint??

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Another update, I jacked up the rear of the truck the other day and removed the right rear wheel and ran it in gear and watched the drum itself. I know the drum isn't perfectly machined so I didn't pay a whole lot of attention to the out of round on the rear part of the drum and the crappy castings causing it not to be true all the way around, I removed the drum and clocked it one stud hole to the right and reinstalled, the vibration is now better at higher speeds but still tho, also it's now way more noticeable at low speeds, plus while running it in gear up in the air you can hear the pads catching a low spot on the drum. Also, the low speed vibration that more noticeable its ONLY when I first drive it... like when everything is cooled off...

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You couldn't feel that braking? shoes out of adjustment enough ?

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Good diagnosis on your part,a warped drum will make the tailgate rattle on that corner,and only on braking,at least that's what I thought,new one, figures

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Yeah, I've changed everything that was loose or needed to be changed except the drums, but I got new ones on the way, bendix brand and machined and balanced perfectly.  New tires, they are all within specs, 2 new u joints installed when I had the driveshaft checked(he said it was perfect) new moog upper control arms, front end alignment. Driveline angle seems to be in spec if I measured right. New engine mounts bc they were destroyed. But everything changed when I clocked the drum 1 stud.

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