Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I occasionally see guys ask about catch cans for the 4.3 so I am putting this out there hoping they will run across this in the future.Currently there is no catch can directly for this application however for DIYers like myself the Elite can kit for the 5.3 V8 in the Silverado will also work.You would just need to purchase some 3/8" hose and a few 3/8" hose clamps.A catch can is probably not absolutely needed in this application but for the OCD guys who occasionally ask the information is now out there for you. dasda.thumb.jpg.bf32c1491f5c5dc16294a4ab7708c98f.jpgadad.thumb.jpg.01cfd251db0bdb373707427afcab8f67.jpgadsa.thumb.jpg.93f7cf6ec481ef42c2f497647cbf6f32.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

There's no catch can for the 4.3? I always figured any catch can would work with 3/8's hose and a couple clamps.

 

My thought on catch cans is this...they don't hurt anything as long as you empty them. And they probably help.

Posted

Couldnt agree more.Also one could theoretically use any can but the universal chinese cans wont have baffling inside to trap nearly as much oil.You would be looking to spend $100+ for a well made one from a known vendor like UPR or Elite.Additionally the ones intended for the 5.3 will come with a bracket intended for fitment on the Silverado so there is no need to fabricate one.The main difference installing on the 4.3 is the pcv ports will be in different locations from that of the 5.3 but its a bolt on deal for the most part

Posted
3 hours ago, WHITESSTOWPIG said:

Couldnt agree more.Also one could theoretically use any can but the universal chinese cans wont have baffling inside to trap nearly as much oil.You would be looking to spend $100+ for a well made one from a known vendor like UPR or Elite.Additionally the ones intended for the 5.3 will come with a bracket intended for fitment on the Silverado so there is no need to fabricate one.The main difference installing on the 4.3 is the pcv ports will be in different locations from that of the 5.3 but its a bolt on deal for the most part

I've actually had some good luck with a cheap Chinese can, plenty of baffling, does a nice job. These cheap brands - at least some of them - have done a nice job copying the better products. But yeah you won't get the bracket, you'll have to buy your own hose and clamps...not as nice as the expensive ones...not as big, no quick disconnects, etc. But they sure catch oil.

 

I wonder if the ports are easier to get to on the 4.3, with the port being in the rear instead of the front?

Posted

What? No clean side separator for those PULLS out of the grocery store?  LOL 

 

Side note: looks good!

  • Haha 1
Posted
14 hours ago, Doublebase said:

I've actually had some good luck with a cheap Chinese can, plenty of baffling, does a nice job. These cheap brands - at least some of them - have done a nice job copying the better products. But yeah you won't get the bracket, you'll have to buy your own hose and clamps...not as nice as the expensive ones...not as big, no quick disconnects, etc. But they sure catch oil.

 

I wonder if the ports are easier to get to on the 4.3, with the port being in the rear instead of the front?

Definitely easier and both ports are on the same side of the motor.I am thinking the intake manifold itself must have a check valve built into it because the line itself didnt when I cut it open to reuse the factory quick connects.If I had to do it again I would probably use a can from UPR.Its much cheaper and looked just as well built if not better than the Elite when I installed one on my other vehicle.

Posted
52 minutes ago, WHITESSTOWPIG said:

Definitely easier and both ports are on the same side of the motor.I am thinking the intake manifold itself must have a check valve built into it because the line itself didnt when I cut it open to reuse the factory quick connects.If I had to do it again I would probably use a can from UPR.Its much cheaper and looked just as well built if not better than the Elite when I installed one on my other vehicle.

I think the piece that the line attaches to at the manifold is an orifice. I believe it unscrews. At least it looks that way on the 5.3

  • 1 year later...
Posted

A year old post and I made an account to ask this question. 

 

On the 4.3 I see 2 lines that look like they could be vent lines. There is the one like the first/second photo. It is on the drivers side of the motor. There looks like a second one on the passenger side on the front of the motor. It runs from the valve cover to the intake box thing, not the air filter. Does anything need to be done with that line? 

Posted

No. The line on the passenger side is the fresh air inlet from the air box to the rocker cover. 

There is a PCV valve at the back of the drivers side head with a hose that goes to the drivers side center of the inlet manifold. There is no orifice. The can is placed between the PCV valve and the manifold. Couldn't be more straight forward. 

  • Like 1
Posted

My turn for a question. Why are catch cans so small? I almost understand it in a baffled can  but the ones without baffles need sufficient volume to lower space velocity enough to allow the separation of liquid from gas. Not sure a pop can sized volume would be enough. 

Posted

From the photos I've seen they work decent enough. I would make sure it has some good baffling an even a bronze filter to help more vapor condense. I just got a cheap one from amazon that looks like a mishimoto but twice the size. Looks like 1.5 soda cans stacked. I'm also going to mount it next to the fender so it can have a little room from the engine heat. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...