Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I was doing some tailgating and was gonne watch tv using the bed outlet. But didn't work. I read the owners manual, ignition on, 120v button on, green light on. Nada. interior outlet did work. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but don't think so. Anyone have simular issues? Thx

Posted (edited)

Numerous posts on here that those outlets are made for recharging a laptop computer, etc, at the most.  Those who have tried household appliances like small refrigerators, vacuum cleaners, electric drills, etc, have been disappointed.  

Edited by MaverickZ71
Posted

Check the fuse, the outlet may be fine but you just tried to pull too many amps. Those are weak outlets.

Posted

It says 400 watts? Anyway there was a fuse for the inverter but since the front outlet worked I figured ok. It's in warranty just hate to take the time to deal with the dealer

Posted

I was using the bed outlet and the saw I was using stopped working after a while. No big deal... When I was in for an oil change, I asked them to look at the outlet. They said everything was fine and when I tested it, it did work. So I have no idea what happen, but I do know it was not working when I needed it!

Posted

A saw?  Like a circular saw for cutting wood?  If so, that would totally overload the circuit.  The owners manual will tell you what power that outlet will support, and it will be nowhere near what a saw will want...

Posted
1 hour ago, davester said:

A saw?  Like a circular saw for cutting wood?  If so, that would totally overload the circuit.  The owners manual will tell you what power that outlet will support, and it will be nowhere near what a saw will want...

I did see that after I used it and asked the dealer.  But I do want to know why would you build a work truck through and through to put an elec outlet in the back that can't even support a common household blender? Seems dumb and not intuitive. 

Posted

Well, it's because your 10-15A circular saw means it draws 100-150+A from your battery, and they don't last too long with that kind of draw (and then you need a boost to start the truck).

 

If you need 110V for anything other than the most trivial task, I would suggest using a small portable gas generator to provide it.  It'll be cheaper and more efficient than getting a setup installed in your truck, as to use 110V for any amount of time, you need to have the truck running, and with a high-idle so that the alternator can put out the power to support the 110V converter.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Here is the issue I am having. I purchased a 2021 1500 with a 120V power outlet in the box. Online you can purchase rail kits through GM for miter saws. Why in the world would they depict such a picture and not actually be able to follow through. This outlet has no purpose if it cant help me on the job. I really should have tested this before purchasing. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Or at least just read the specs for the power output of the outlets?  GM is pretty clear that they are not like home power outlets, and are limited to only fairly low power appliances.

 

https://my.chevrolet.com/how-to-support/entertainment-connections/outlets-ports/truck-electric-outlet

 

But the good news is, GM is having trouble producing new trucks, so you should be able to sell it for about what you paid for it.  And then you can do some research to find a truck that works for you.

Edited by davester
Posted

I was very disappointed in this outlet too.  Just another gimmick to get people to look at the truck.  I've had multiple instances that I could have really used the outlet but it wouldn't power on the device I was trying to use for more than 1 second.

 

FWIW, if anyone wants something that CAN power household appliances and charge electric vehicles.  Go get an F150 with the 7500W inverter in the back.  It's a $750 option.  Can't beat that.  I wish Chevy did something like this and maybe they will in the near future.

Posted

I know this sounds crazy, but why not just install an inverter powerful enough to run whatever equipment you want and be done with it?  It's not super difficult, and you get what you need.

Posted

It would kill the battery. Alternator couldn't keep up if a big load was plugged in. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...