How have you improved your ride quality?

[DENALIHD66]

I have the Max Trailering package on my 2015 1500 so I knew when buying it, it wouldn't have the softest ride.  I added the Sulastic rear leaf spring shackles and noticed a difference, and while they still flex, I can't tell as much of a difference anymore.  I also added a rear Hellwig sway bar, but that didn't seem to make a huge difference.

 

After those, I finally put Bilstein 5100s all around, set on the 1.8" setting up front, and got 295/55/20 Toyo Open Country At 2's.  I run them at 45 PSI (They are E-load tires).  At first, the ride was great, but after just a couple thousand miles, the ride is very rough and unpleasant to drive.  I know its a truck, but the ride really has been beating me up on the bumps.  When I hit a bump, the whole interior of the cab rattles, meaning the tires and suspension aren't giving at all, so everything is felt and nothing is absorbed.

 

Based on everything I've changed, is it the tires, the PSI I am running, the shocks, or is it the factory spring rate the biggest contributor to how hard my truck drives?

 

Cornering and handling is REALLY good, and it always keeps the truck nice and level even in hard cornering.

 

I noticed that on our trucks, the front coils don't really have that many "coils" to them.  With other truck brands, their coils seem to have twice the amount of coils (meaning they are closer together).  Does that contribute to the front ride quality as well?  

[1SLOW1500]

Most of what I recommend will reduce tow unless you add a air bag kit. It is not hard softer springs more travel. Rake so the rear is higher. With solid rear axle swaybar isn't going to increase comfort.

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[Snowcamo]

Bump the tire pressure down to 38 and see if that helps. Did on mine a bit. I feel like if our trucks had variable rate springs like the one in the pic we'd be good to go. Notice the two diff sections. Any sway on corners can be resolved by a more stiff sway bar at that point. That being said whos wants to be the guinea pig?

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[DENALIHD66]

Yeah one thing about these trucks is I feel like the overall suspension travel isn't very good, so maybe that is why its just as unpleasant to drive off road as well.  The faster I'm going off road (bumpy fields) the smoother it becomes though.

[Eddie 70]

56 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Bump the tire pressure down to 38 and see if that helps. Did on mine a bit. I feel like if our trucks had variable rate springs like the one in the pic we'd be good to go. Notice the two diff sections. Any sway on corners can be resolved by a more stiff sway bar at that point. That being said whos wants to be the guinea pig?

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I have always thought that progressive springs would be an upgrade for our trucks. As far as I know, mine is 2wd, there is only one spring for the front suspension. I looked a few years ago for progressives and never saw them listed for our trucks or I missed them. I did put Bilstien 4600(?) on mine and it seemed to help the handling. Like you, I don't notice it as much now that I am used to them.

[Snowcamo]

Yeah these trucks ride like crap. I know everyone says it a truck , but its 2019... Tech has come alomg way.

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[DENALIHD66]

Fox 2.0 Coilovers have nice springs on them that look constant.  I have also found Eibach springs that give 2.5" of lift but they have to be used in conjunction with their struts as well for them to work.  

 

Not Apples to Apples but the Rams with air suspension ride like a dream.  Didn't really like how the F150s drive but the ride is definitely a lot more supple.  

 

When I load the back up with weight it does ride a ton better.  I am contemplating adding a front brush guard on so I'm wondering if that helps pre-load the springs a tad more to soften the ride.  For winter I plan on putting around 300lbs in the bed again this year.

[Grumpy Bear]

There is around 8" of wheel travel on both ends of the K2**. Front leverage ratio is 2:1 and rear 1:1. That is actually quit a bit of travel for a road vehicle.

 

Up front the OEM shock has 4" of stroke. The right spring would place the shock at dead center with the truck sitting on the ground.

Out back the OEM shock actually has 9" of stroke so under her own weight should be sitting also dead center in the shocks travel.

 

You will find the rear is sitting near the top of it's stroke however. Around 3.5" above center. This part has absolutely nothing to do with shock valving. Just spring rate and travel. The front is about an inch above center or 2" of wheel travel above center.

 

This means that the spring rate is quite a bit too high for empty and dead on the money when carrying the full 2,200 lb. payload when centered over the rear axle. Weight includes full tank of fuel and your chunky monkey in the saddle. Empty ride stinks.

 

A shock if properly valved when it allows 90% of the full range of movement over your chosen terrain traveling at 90% of the maximum speed you ever expect to drive.

 

GM valves the shock for that performance at full load on city streets at legal speeds. This limits motion when unloaded transferring deflection from the spring to your spine.

 

The after market in their infinite wisdom decided EVERYONE likes the same thing so every manufacture tunes pretty much alike. Minor differences feel impressive initially. (Street suspension). 

 

Tires are part of the suspension and the shocks and springs are tuned to the OEM tire type. Meaning if equipped with HT or AT standard load tires and change to E rated tires it's like adding spring rate. 

 

To FIX this you would have to drastically reduce spring rates then bag it for load. Use a fully adjustable and rebuildable shock and tune to you conditions. To reduce spring rate up front the factory shock does not allow for after market spring geometry. There are plenty of after market coil overs. Out back you will need a custom made spring and beat the manufacture into submission to get him to build what you what instead of what he thinks you want. Good luck. 

[Snowcamo]

There is around 8" of wheel travel on both ends of the K2**. Front leverage ratio is 2:1 and rear 1:1. That is actually quit a bit of travel for a road vehicle.
 
Up front the OEM shock has 4" of stroke. The right spring would place the shock at dead center with the truck sitting on the ground.
Out back the OEM shock actually has 9" of stroke so under her own weight should be sitting also dead center in the shocks travel.
 
You will find the rear is sitting near the top of it's stroke however. Around 3.5" above center. This part has absolutely nothing to do with shock valving. Just spring rate and travel. The front is about an inch above center or 2" of wheel travel above center.
 
This means that the spring rate is quite a bit too high for empty and dead on the money when carrying the full 2,200 lb. payload when centered over the rear axle. Weight includes full tank of fuel and your chunky monkey in the saddle. Empty ride stinks.
 
A shock if properly valved when it allows 90% of the full range of movement over your chosen terrain traveling at 90% of the maximum speed you ever expect to drive.
 
GM valves the shock for that performance at full load on city streets at legal speeds. This limits motion when unloaded transferring deflection from the spring to your spine.
 
The after market in their infinite wisdom decided EVERYONE likes the same thing so every manufacture tunes pretty much alike. Minor differences feel impressive initially. (Street suspension). 
 
Tires are part of the suspension and the shocks and springs are tuned to the OEM tire type. Meaning if equipped with HT or AT standard load tires and change to E rated tires it's like adding spring rate. 
 
To FIX this you would have to drastically reduce spring rates then bag it for load. Use a fully adjustable and rebuildable shock and tune to you conditions. To reduce spring rate up front the factory shock does not allow for after market spring geometry. There are plenty of after market coil overs. Out back you will need a custom made spring and beat the manufacture into submission to get him to build what you what instead of what he thinks you want. Good luck. 

Well said sir.

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[Grumpy Bear]

I have nearly $5K in my suspension and still it is no where near what I would LIKE but....it is light years ahead of factory. IF I were to do this twice I would do again the King OEM front coil overs but this time 500# springs and adjustable dampening. (30% lighter) and tune to suit. Bell 2" drop knuckles. Take another half degree of castor out. Moog problem solver end links and bushings in the smaller bar. 

 

Out back I would be remove the strong back and second leaf and have the resultant mono leaf arched to level to plus 1" rake after removing the spacer block. Front pivot Energy Suspension Poly bushing. Viking stock length shocks with both damping valves sitting in a Mcgaughys 1" extention. Shorten the bumper 2". Sulastic hangers. Custom valve as needed. Red Line shock fluid. 150-250# N2 front. 17" factory steel rims and Continental Cross Contact LX 20 tires at 35 PSIG.

 

Then bag it if I wanted to haul or tow. 

 

I under estimated the degree of over spring and over dampening first go around. Severely underestimated. No actual data is publicly available. Could have saved maybe $1500 and had a Caddy ride. What I have now is more of a Camaro track day ride. Better than the suicidal jack hammer the factory delivered. 

 

My service could be called a GT truck. 

[1SLOW1500]

This is about what I did lowered truck. Removed overload added traction bars. And the most important the rear air bag. With the bag it took some different pressures to find the sweet spot and that spot was about 1" rake. I have no rear swaybar but it would assist the launch. And I run my tires at lower side of the pressure. More for ride quality and traction. Also I don't care about even where and replace tires sooner then anyone I know.
My buddy has a 2017 F250 with huge lift and he just got King shocks. Ride is oddly stiff.

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[truckguy82]

11 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

To FIX this you would have to drastically reduce spring rates then bag it for load. Use a fully adjustable and rebuildable shock and tune to you conditions. To reduce spring rate up front the factory shock does not allow for after market spring geometry. There are plenty of after market coil overs. Out back you will need a custom made spring and beat the manufacture into submission to get him to build what you what instead of what he thinks you want. Good luck. 

Was just just about to type something similar to this.

 

My perfect suspension would have way softer springs, shocks, lowered 2/4 (for COG), hellwig sway front and back, plus airbags.

 

I sorta wonder if you can swap parts from a tahoe or suburban, they certainly ride nicer and have much lower payload capacity

 

 

[1SLOW1500]

Was just just about to type something similar to this.
 
My perfect suspension would have way softer springs, shocks, lowered 2/4 (for COG), hellwig sway front and back, plus airbags.
 
I sorta wonder if you can swap parts from a tahoe or suburban, they certainly ride nicer and have much lower payload capacity
 
 

You are very very close but short of a IRS in the rear a better setup is 4 link with watts link or wishbone. Dual adjustable coilovers and I would add a bag in the rear for tow. Clean up the angles and possibly also throw a 2 piece small diameter drive shaft.
And in a perfect world get as much weight out and as low as reasonable to reduce weight and roll will help handling but as said travel limited means stiffness this is why I said weight loss.

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[aseibel]

15 hours ago, DENALIHD66 said:

After those, I finally put Bilstein 5100s all around

 

Based on everything I've changed, is it the tires, the PSI I am running, the shocks, or is it the factory spring rate the biggest contributor to how hard my truck drives?

Those are the springs they give us to be able to carry close to 2,000 lbs of payload. Not much you can do beside carrying around 700# of dead weight, which would make it ride like a dream.

 

But I'm just "shocked" that adding bilstein 5100s didn't fix your problem..... haha. (see what I did there?)

[Grumpy Bear]

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/suspension-brakes/129-1101-know-your-springs-suspension-secrets/

 

That might be useful.