Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Things have changed a bit.  I am going to abandon the cameras in the 3rd Brake Light assembly in place.  I am going to disconnect the camera for the rearview mirror and connect a new factory camera from the sharkfin to the mirror.  This way I don’t have to remove the headliner. 

55DD454C-B9EF-427E-865C-1D3980E59476.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/27/2020 at 4:43 PM, joguzman711 said:

Is there a better option?  

I installed a LEER shell on the bed of my 2020 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD truck.  The shell is now blocking the 3rd brake light camera so that the feature of using a camera vs a mirror in the rear view mirror unit is now not an option.  I am limited to see what’s behind me using side mirrors only.  Below are my thoughts and notes:

 

The 2020 Silverado 2500 HD has a “Spoiler” on the back of the cab that houses the 3rd Brake Light assembly.  There are two cameras on that 3rd brake light assembly identified in the attached pictorial diagram as #4 and #6.  #4 Camera is listed as an Auxiliary Rearview Camera that works in conjunction with the trailer view camera feature and the #6 camera is the RearView mirror camera that allows one to see behind him via a flip of a switch on the mirror itself.

 

It appears that in order to remove the 3rd Brake Light assembly you will either have to remove the entire headliner or simply move the back of the headliner enough to access the screws (10) & (11) that secures the spoiler in place. Once removed, you can remove the 3rd Brake Light Assembly and replace it with a 3rd Brake Light assembly without cameras.  The 3rd Brake Light assembly connects to a harness listed as (9) on the pictorial diagram. 

 

My plan is to take the OEM 3rd Brake Light assembly apart and remove both cameras.  Purchase a Kia Telluride GPS Shark Fin antenna and gut it.  Mount the cameras onto it and install it on the LEER shell roof 5” from the back hatch.  Ensure I splice in enough conductor (15-20 ft)  to run it to the harness (#9) in the cab.  This should provide a plug and play installation.  I will need to ensure that the angles of the cameras mounted on the shark fin are correct.  Reinstall headliner after I verify all is functioning correctly.  Does anyone have any thoughts on this?  Is there a better option?

Spoiler Diagram.jpeg

You don't happen to have the p/n for #5 do you?

On 2/27/2020 at 4:43 PM, joguzman711 said:

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/29/2020 at 12:43 AM, sneyeper said:

You don't happen to have the p/n for #5 do you?

 

I am hoping to attempt to add this to ours along with the associated rearview mirror ... the closest dealer is not responsive at all.  Eventually part lists will make it out of the internet I guess.

 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I just found this extremely interesting post... and suddenly it stopped!   I also fall within the same conditions mentioned above, was any further advancement in the whole camera relocation/addition process? I just got both truck and camper. 2020 AT4 and Leer.

 

Regards.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Anyone get this working yet?  My main interest is what is the proper cable to connect to the camera cable.  I intend to pull the cameras from 3rd brake light, plug in an extension camera cable, then make a custom third brake light for the Leer shell with the main rear view camera in it.  I intend to mount the bed camera facing up on top of the shell so I can see the cargo on the thule rack attached to the shell, so it will be a rack cam instead of a bed cam.

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

I have looked everywhere.  I think this will be like the trailer cameras.  There is one brand that will work, no others.  I think the suggestion to use a snap on mirror with another camera will be the most reasonable in cost and least disruptive to the truck  The trailer camera is almost $500.  Here is one that is a backup camera - i don't think a fisheye will work for a rearview mirror image.  https://www.actiontrucks.com/product-detail/RVS-915-04/jason-cap-third-brake-light-rear-view-camera  

Edited by Dave's Place
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I would really like to know how this came out? I just purchased a 2020 3500hd and am having an ARE cap installed next week, I also happen to own a fiberglass repair shop so I could mock up my own camera enclosure not that is the best use of my time if something is already out there. 

 

Thanks 

Posted
On 12/23/2020 at 5:45 PM, fiberglass charlie said:

I would really like to know how this came out? I just purchased a 2020 3500hd and am having an ARE cap installed next week, I also happen to own a fiberglass repair shop so I could mock up my own camera enclosure not that is the best use of my time if something is already out there. 

 

Thanks 

You aughta mock up an entirely new topper design. Mamy of these toppers are so genaric or dated looking.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Glad it worked for you. I tried that 1st, about 2 years ago. Didn't help. I also tried doing a hard reset (disconnecting battery for minimum of 30 minutes). Worked a couple times, but after one summer of doing it over and over, that no longer worked.  I was fairly confident it was either the compressor or a failed actuator, but I just couldn't identify which one. Had to research which actuators do what and which last numbers are associated with each.
    • Took me FIFTEEN MINUTES to find this. Isn't that a problem? On the mainstream media I can INSTANTLY find 100 articles bashing President Trump ... but when it comes to TRUTH in American corporate news & search engines, it's carefully filtered to support ONE SIDE. A Republic cannot survive like this! Incredible! Even all the AI searchers out there failed as well! ChatGPT said it needed more details on the video that I provided a DIRECT LINK to! I thought AI was the be-all, end-all?? I had to dig it up myself. This should be FRONT PAGE NEWS!!! 🤬   Here's the statement directly from our President:     Glenn Beck's reporting on the operation:   https://glennbeck.com/watch/videos/trump-just-revealed-a-massive-military-secret-that-lowered-gas-prices   In case that link doesn't work, here's the YouTube link:    
    • More is cylinder deactivation. Kia-Hyundai Ive had 4. The warranty is the same 10 years 100K miles. My grandson drives the first one 05 Elantra GT. My wife drives the second one 2011 Genesis. The Genesis still performs as new and looks great. The Elantra looks rough. He’s not kind to it. The third was a Genesis coup. The fourth was a Santa Fe. Those were my daily drivers. I don’t keep them long. Kia is the same as Hyundai with the same warranty. I looked at the K-4 today. Too small, otherwise pretty good buy. Most of Hyundai and Kia’s have a performance upgrade. 
    • Thanks for the point of reference 
    • Great question. Answer....depends. One the volume of the crankcase, the driver that will actually be using the vehicle and the amount it uses plus the distance expected for that next trip. Couple of for instances:   Wife is going to drive Dizzy to Moline and back plus a bit around town so say 500 miles on the day. I know from years with that SUV that around town and local rural it uses about a quart in 1250 miles. But on the Interstate and her at the wheel without her anchor nagging her she'll push it and it will drop a quart in about 800 miles. Hence, around town I wait to somewhere between a quarter down to a quart down. On her trip I'd top it if it was down a few ounces and hope for the best.    Have I overfilled one? You mean by adding before it needs a full quart I assume. No, not once after finding the true fill mark.  I know the dipsticks of everything I drive and add what it needs. I learn this by doing the first oil change a quart low. Run the motor for a few minutes. Let it sit over night. Check and mark. Then add half a cup at a time making note of the place on the stick. I add through the dipstick tube with a barbeque basting bottle. Give it a few minutes to drain down and check again.    A vehicle like Dizzy that uses this much oil will take a few quarts between 3K changes. I keep one in the vehicle with the bottle and a bag. (Mindful of it's fullness) Not a big deal and never makes a mess of it. There is no such thing as "multiple quarts' in my shop for any specific oil. There will be a maximum however of the number of different oils used over the fleet.     Dizzy holds a nominal 5 quarts. So the first fill was indeed over as it actually took 4.75. My vehicles are fit with Valvomax valves so I can meter an ounce on the drain if need be. Found her mark first crack at it. Never to be repeated.    Pepper uses none between changes so I don't keep a quart in that one. Straight up 6 quarts put her dead on the full line. Check it ever fuel stop. They will surprise you when they start using.    Raven holds 3 liters or 5.44 ounces over three quarts. I add 3 quarts and 6 ounces. That gives me 5 oil changes on my orphan quart.    Lawnmower holds about 3/5 of a quart. I don't over fill it to prevent an orphan. So yea, depends. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...