Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anybody have paint protection film? I have a RST on the way any day now and was thinking about getting the front end done? I got a quote for $1200! I was thinking it would be $300-$500. Never had it before so really don't know the going rate but that quote had me thinking I could get the paint repaired cheaper if it bothers me.

 

If you have it, what did you have covered and how much?

Do you like it and think it's worth it?

 

Thanks

Posted

'19 LTZ.  I had all front paint covered (not my chrome bumpers but you would want to cover your painted bumpers) including headlights, about 9" of hood, front quarters and possibly something else (can't recall) plus tint including windshield for I think $900.  I am in Charlotte.  So $1200 for ppf alone seems high.  I would shop around.

 

As far as it being worthwhile, yes it is.  I've read lots of complaints here and on FB about how easily the paint chips and how folks wished they'd had ppf applied.  

Posted

Absolutely get the front end protected with the 3m clear, especially if you have painted bumpers. It is best to have it installed right away before any chips, scratches, or oils get on your paint. I paid $700 for full front end & fenders at the dealer which included the Costco 15% off parts and service. I wish I would have had the doors done too. If you are a Costco member, I would take advantage of their dealers discount.  I print out a 15% discount every time I go to the dealer for something.  Works every time.

Posted

I live in Lake Zurich IL. I got a few different quotes and ended up going with Auto Image in Barrington. Got XPEL PPF on entire front end, a pillars, 12l on hood and fenders, windows tinted, the entire truck ceramic coated w 9 year GTechniq.  They did an awesome job. I think it was around $1800

Posted
30 minutes ago, Dbrace said:

I live in Lake Zurich IL. I got a few different quotes and ended up going with Auto Image in Barrington. Got XPEL PPF on entire front end, a pillars, 12l on hood and fenders, windows tinted, the entire truck ceramic coated w 9 year GTechniq.  They did an awesome job. I think it was around $1800

Thanks! 

I'm in Ingleside!

Fire guys in Antioch got back to me at $850 for Llumar platinum... I missed their email until after I posted this thread. I went back and read the other quote and that was actually $1500!!!

 

I'm thinking I want about 4"-6" on the hood, the painted bumper, the bar going across the grill and the triangle looking piece that is forward part of the front fenders.

Posted

I got Xpel Ultimate applied to front 1/4 of hood, leading portion of front fenders, areas around/under headlights, A-pillars, and strip between satellite antenna and windshield across top of the roof.  Paid $800.  My grille and bumper is chrome, so none applied there.

Posted

I apply Ceramic Pro through my business. $1200 doesn't seem absurd if it's a quality brand of PPF (3M or Ceramic Pro). We do the ceramic coatings for $1500-5000 depending on paint correction and type of vehicle. It really just depends on what products they're offering. It's definitely worth it though. Mine has 4 layers of Ceramic Coating. I have a coworker with the same color and you can clearly tell the difference.

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Alex Kemple said:

I apply Ceramic Pro through my business. $1200 doesn't seem absurd if it's a quality brand of PPF (3M or Ceramic Pro). We do the ceramic coatings for $1500-5000 depending on paint correction and type of vehicle. It really just depends on what products they're offering. It's definitely worth it though. Mine has 4 layers of Ceramic Coating. I have a coworker with the same color and you can clearly tell the difference.

 

Would you say this is something that a professional should do?

 

I was wondering if they made precut kits I could do myself? Otherwise I'm leaning towards a place by me that uses Llumar platinum which is the same as suntek ultra.

Posted
1 minute ago, Whipped500 said:

Would you say this is something that a professional should do?

 

I was wondering if they made precut kits I could do myself? Otherwise I'm leaning towards a place by me that uses Llumar platinum which is the same as suntek ultra.

100%, ceramic coatings should be done by a professional or someone at least comfortable with it. We’ve had dozens of people end up at our shops after they tried the DIY kit and ended up with uneven paint. Then we have to charge them extra to undo their screwup...

Posted
5 minutes ago, Alex Kemple said:

100%, ceramic coatings should be done by a professional or someone at least comfortable with it. We’ve had dozens of people end up at our shops after they tried the DIY kit and ended up with uneven paint. Then we have to charge them extra to undo their screwup...

Sorry, I meant the ppf...I'm familiar with coatings and high spots.

Posted
8 minutes ago, Whipped500 said:

Sorry, I meant the ppf...I'm familiar with coatings and high spots.

PPF is variable. If you’re comfortable doing vinyl wraps or tint, then you can likely do PPF at home. Just depends how much you’re willing to do and how long you have. PPF is just time consuming, not really difficult

Posted

There's a guy on Ebay that sells precut kits. I did it on my 2019 rst. It's a pain. And imperfections are very noticeable. I got mine good enough and got much better at it towards the end but there are several pieces I'll probably rebuy and redo. Definitely worth $800-$1000 for a professional install. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I did Xpel on full hood, full fenders, full bumpers for $1500 CDN 

Posted

I also did the Xpel on the hood, headlights, fog lights, front and rear bumper and i believe the 4 door handles. It ran me $1500. I like it. I haven't had any issues with it. Had it about 8 months or so. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
    • Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
    • I have both but typically use the 4 legged walker (wheels on front, ski's on back).   The four wheeler is starting to be used on "longer" outdoor walks.  The 4 legged walker is particularly helpful in practicing good walking posture.  Both of my knees are at different stages of recovery and I'm trying to not develop poor habits.  I can actually manage with a cane but it's very difficult not to favor one leg over the other.  My PT recommends I continue with my 4 legged walker for a while.  Yesterday was four weeks since my last knee replacement and I'm excited about my progress to date.  It has been a hell of a rough journey so far but it is exciting to witness  systematic and continuous improvement.  I went for years watching the decline of my "mobility".  It seems that everyday now I am alerting my wife to something I can do now that I couldn't a day or two ago!  I encourage anyone facing the prospect of knee replacement to share any concerns with others who have had the surgery.  It isn't an instant fix but rather is a considerable amount of short term pain for long term gain.  Recovery time and pain levels vary for individuals post surgery but the end results are typically very positive and I've never encountered anyone regretting having had the surgery. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...