Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just did mine install in 1 hour and 20 minutes, that includes running wires from the Switches, into the engine compartment for future use. Two things to help you do this install;

 

First, insert a long screwdriver into the hole in the rubber boot from the engine side into the cab. Do this for two reasons, one, made sure the path for the new wire is clear and unobstructed, second, while the screwdriver is installed, go into the cab and look were it is located, that way you have a idea were to look for the wire you are going to insert. 

 

Second, spray a little wire lube in the rubber boot to make the wire slide in easier. Make up a 4 wire harness and stick it in the rubber boot after you insert the power wire. You might as well extend the wires from the switches while you have everything apart.

  • Like 2
Posted

When my truck came in after waiting out the strike I noticed the upfitter switch kit on the back seat. When I asked the salesman about it he said that Was to be installed by the customer. I said well I have a check for $75,000.00 to pick up the truck but you won’t be getting it till the switches are installed. The next day I picked up the truck with the switches installed problem solved. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
28 minutes ago, mostcorey95 said:

I was told by my dealer I cant install them due to not having the rpo code 9L7

I figured on something like that as well. I just wanted the hardware and fuses. If I have to, I'll wire them to battery power. I'm probably going to be running most of my accessories through a relay anyway. It'll pretty much be mostly lighting.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 3/26/2020 at 4:17 PM, blamkin86 said:

 

First, grab the fuse box, and hold it near where we'll be installing it:

IMG_0597.jpg.0f450d511d7ab92edbd2666b1af8ac74.jpg

 

First, the black plug you just put on the red wire from the first steps, plug that into the fuse box. I don't have a picture of this, but there's only one place it can go.

 

At this point, you're switches are wired into the harness in your truck. 

 

 

 

 

 

I understand you can change the 5 switches as to where they are used with ignition on / engine running and or engine off and hot at all times controlled by the switch. Someone said by moving the fuse over in the same slot but different connection within the slot. Anyone got the new fuse panel where they can take a photo of the open fuse access? 

 

Chuck

Posted (edited)

So I  went on a quest to get more info on the famous knee bolster removal and replacement. I know the up fitters #153 has a small pictures to kinda get some info BUT not enough. It was discovered that half the dash must be removed to get to it! It is because of 1 screw under the radio trim. I found a GM link to a PDF file on how to remove the dash trims for replacement of various panels. Here is the link

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2UVb4djaqf3ashL9

So now this shows where the screws are as well as the push clips. 

 

I used the wrong link. Here is the correct link This is a PDF file.

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1265/Instrument Panel Knee Bolster Replacement.pdf

 

 

Chuck

Edited by Gecko50
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for the write up and the picks... For those of you not lucky enough to have GM at least change out the dash and gave you all the parts here are some photos to help with the process. FYI you have to disassemble a lot of things be prepared. I am also doing this on a 2020 AT4 3500.

 

1.  Push up on the gauge cover. Just the leather part.

IMG-0487.jpg

Posted

5. Pull both sides away from center council 

6. There are two tabs under the arm rest that need to be popped up then you can slide out the cup holder. Use =cation as there are wires attached. I disconnected one of them to be able to move it out of the way.

IMG-0484.jpg

Posted

7. This is probably the worst piece of trim in the world to get off. Its the little piece just under the break controller. It has two wings that go down either side. There is a clip at the end of each wing one on the left side front and right side front and one in the center.

IMG-0483.jpg

Posted

9. At the bottom you will see two screws to remove

10. Pull forward from the bottom to move the whole unit including the radio forward a couple of incest

11. Snaps around the edge will allow the radio to fall forward with the vents

IMG-0481.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 304 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...