Problems w Gamboa mod for off road light switch

[Crankycolnago]

I am using Gamboa harness , followed video and harness tabs instructions double checked all my wiring in and outside . But the light switch does not seem to be triggering the relay, I watched the video and he says put the trigger wire in to #86 on relay but the diagram he has on the vid and the videos showed him putting the trigger wire in to #85 I’ve tried both and there is no juice going to the lights , I have power from main wire to relay , my ground is good and the lights work if I put power to them. The oem switch was bought new and it activated the Icon on the dash . 

anyone had this issue any suggestions ?? 
 

 

[VanguardK2]

I am using Gamboa harness , followed video and harness tabs instructions double checked all my wiring in and outside . But the light switch does not seem to be triggering the relay, I watched the video and he says put the trigger wire in to #86 on relay but the diagram he has on the vid and the videos showed him putting the trigger wire in to #85 I’ve tried both and there is no juice going to the lights , I have power from main wire to relay , my ground is good and the lights work if I put power to them. The oem switch was bought new and it activated the Icon on the dash . 

anyone had this issue any suggestions ?? 
 
 

If you havent already PM'd him, I'd get on that. Hes a stand up guy so I'm sure he'll do everything he can to fix it or help out.
@pgamboa

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[Crankycolnago]

2 minutes ago, VanguardK2 said:

If you havent already PM'd him, I'd get on that. Hes a stand up guy so I'm sure he'll do everything he can to fix it or help out.
@pgamboa

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

Yea , not bashing him just saying that im using his harness, sent him a message earlier today so well see when he replies, maube he can walk me thru it. 

[dieselfan1]

This would have been better handled by a PM
Don't sweat it he will get you through this.

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[pgamboa]

I have no issue if someone reports an issue with product. Feedback (both positive and negative) is important. It provides me the ability to continue to enhance the product/service.

What year is the truck?

In the video that Tinkering Fox released on this upgrade, he was the brains on this upgrade and performed the upgrade on his personal truck. His truck is a 2015 truck. I tested it on my 2016 truck.

After reading the documentation on this upgrade, it was disclosed that 2014 and some 2015 trucks may not have their BCM programmed for this feature.

So if your truck is 2014-2015, there is that possibility. If you’re 2016, it should work. There has been 1-2 trucks (2016+) that have reported it not work. We are not sure why for those.

I’ve got on the back burner, a solution for these trucks in that year range with that issue.

The issue - with the Pandemic going on, the demand for popular upgrades have increased my lead times to get products built/shipped. So I’ve been very busy cranking out orders.

Hope this helps and look forward to hearing from
You.

I’ll respond as I am able to.


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[TinkeringFox]

Hi there. I actually just installed a new version of this mod yesterday that activated the light bar when two conditions are met.

#1, the ORL function is triggered 

#2, the high beams are triggered 

 

The problem you are having is certainly going to be downstream from the yellow output wire. 
You stated that the icon on the ORL switch illuminated when the ORL function is active. The button icon is fed by positive power coming back up to it from the BCM. The other branch of that positive power goes out under the hood to the aftermarket light bar harness. What is then required is for you to intercept the positive trigger wire going into your aftermarket relay. 

This is assuming that your aftermarket harness uses a positive signal to trigger the relay. 
Here’s how it should look....

Terminal 30=fused battery Positive + power

Terminal 87=Output positive + power to light bar

Terminal 86=Negative Trigger - Ground to relay & possibly bridged/spliced out to light bar.

Terminal 85=Positive Trigger input to relay from Yellow ORL harness wire.

 

#85 & #86 are both triggers for the relay and can be interchanged. The relay is an electromagnet switch requiring a positive and a negative input to flip the switch connecting terminal 30 (Battery) to 87 (Light Bar). It really matters not which way you hook up these two terminals as long as you have both a positive and a negative. 
 

The bottom line is that you need to check power and ground at terminals 85 & 86. Power being from the yellow ORL harness. You should feel and hear the relay click when triggered. Next check positive input and output power to 30 and out from 87. Next check to see if the light bar is properly grounded. 
 

I hope this helps.

 

New video and high beam upgrade coming soon. 
 

Edit...I mis-read and thought the button icon was illuminated. If your dash light is illuminating that’s great! Your truck has the programming! Verify that the yellow wire is receiving a positive signal when active. If not you may have a poor connection between the BCM and the Yellow wire. This could be due to a loose terminal, a terminal not fully inserted, a terminal inserted into a neighboring cavity (I’ve done that) or a few other things. Does the button icon illuminate?

Edited April 18, 2020 by TinkeringFox

[Crankycolnago]

10 hours ago, pgamboa said:

I have no issue if someone reports an issue with product. Feedback (both positive and negative) is important. It provides me the ability to continue to enhance the product/service.

What year is the truck?

In the video that Tinkering Fox released on this upgrade, he was the brains on this upgrade and performed the upgrade on his personal truck. His truck is a 2015 truck. I tested it on my 2016 truck.

After reading the documentation on this upgrade, it was disclosed that 2014 and some 2015 trucks may not have their BCM programmed for this feature.

So if your truck is 2014-2015, there is that possibility. If you’re 2016, it should work. There has been 1-2 trucks (2016+) that have reported it not work. We are not sure why for those.

I’ve got on the back burner, a solution for these trucks in that year range with that issue.

The issue - with the Pandemic going on, the demand for popular upgrades have increased my lead times to get products built/shipped. So I’ve been very busy cranking out orders.

Hope this helps and look forward to hearing from
You.

I’ll respond as I am able to.


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Hey Phil Thanks for the quick reply, the truck is a 2016 . 

[pgamboa]

Hey Phil Thanks for the quick reply, the truck is a 2016 . 

Tinkering Fox provided some great info on the different types of light bar harnesses and how they are configured.


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[Crankycolnago]

9 hours ago, TinkeringFox said:

Hi there. I actually just installed a new version of this mod yesterday that activated the light bar when two conditions are met.

#1, the ORL function is triggered 

#2, the high beams are triggered 

 

The problem you are having is certainly going to be downstream from the yellow output wire. 
You stated that the icon on the ORL switch illuminated when the ORL function is active. The button icon is fed by positive power coming back up to it from the BCM. The other branch of that positive power goes out under the hood to the aftermarket light bar harness. What is then required is for you to intercept the positive trigger wire going into your aftermarket relay. 

This is assuming that your aftermarket harness uses a positive signal to trigger the relay. 
Here’s how it should look....

Terminal 30=fused battery Positive + power

Terminal 87=Output positive + power to light bar

 

Terminal 86=Negative Trigger - Ground to relay & possibly bridged/spliced out to light bar.

Terminal 85=Positive Trigger input to relay from Yellow ORL harness wire.

 

#85 & #86 are both triggers for the relay and can be interchanged. The relay is an electromagnet switch requiring a positive and a negative input to flip the switch connecting terminal 30 (Battery) to 87 (Light Bar). It really matters not which way you hook up these two terminals as long as you have both a positive and a negative. 
 

The bottom line is that you need to check power and ground at terminals 85 & 86. Power being from the yellow ORL harness. You should feel and hear the relay click when triggered. Next check positive input and output power to 30 and out from 87. Next check to see if the light bar is properly grounded. 
 

I hope this helps.

 

New video and high beam upgrade coming soon. 
 

Edit...I mis-read and thought the button icon was illuminated. If your dash light is illuminating that’s great! Your truck has the programming! Verify that the yellow wire is receiving a positive signal when active. If not you may have a poor connection between the BCM and the Yellow wire. This could be due to a loose terminal, a terminal not fully inserted, a terminal inserted into a neighboring cavity (I’ve done that) or a few other things. Does the button icon illuminate?

I have a dash icon light, the switch itself does not illuminate , I tested the yellow wire that goes to the engine bay and it has no power . So then I need to add a wire to the relay prong labeled 87a ? 
 

currently have as follows 

 

30 - 12 v battery power w fuse 

85 - yellow trigger wire

86 - ground for relay and light 

87 - power to light 

 

i ran a power wire from battery to light to test its ground and it works .

 

so it seems that the problem is the switch trigger wire.

 

thanks for the help 

[TinkeringFox]

Yes, it seems that the yellow wire is the issue. You should double check the connection at the BCM to be sure that everything is correct. Correct cavity, proper depth, good (tight) connection.

[JohnnyLane]

On 4/17/2020 at 11:40 PM, TinkeringFox said:

Hi there. I actually just installed a new version of this mod yesterday that activated the light bar when two conditions are met.

#1, the ORL function is triggered 

#2, the high beams are triggered 

 

The problem you are having is certainly going to be downstream from the yellow output wire. 
You stated that the icon on the ORL switch illuminated when the ORL function is active. The button icon is fed by positive power coming back up to it from the BCM. The other branch of that positive power goes out under the hood to the aftermarket light bar harness. What is then required is for you to intercept the positive trigger wire going into your aftermarket relay. 

This is assuming that your aftermarket harness uses a positive signal to trigger the relay. 
Here’s how it should look....

Terminal 30=fused battery Positive + power

Terminal 87=Output positive + power to light bar

Terminal 86=Negative Trigger - Ground to relay & possibly bridged/spliced out to light bar.

Terminal 85=Positive Trigger input to relay from Yellow ORL harness wire.

 

#85 & #86 are both triggers for the relay and can be interchanged. The relay is an electromagnet switch requiring a positive and a negative input to flip the switch connecting terminal 30 (Battery) to 87 (Light Bar). It really matters not which way you hook up these two terminals as long as you have both a positive and a negative. 
 

The bottom line is that you need to check power and ground at terminals 85 & 86. Power being from the yellow ORL harness. You should feel and hear the relay click when triggered. Next check positive input and output power to 30 and out from 87. Next check to see if the light bar is properly grounded. 
 

I hope this helps.

 

New video and high beam upgrade coming soon. 
 

Edit...I mis-read and thought the button icon was illuminated. If your dash light is illuminating that’s great! Your truck has the programming! Verify that the yellow wire is receiving a positive signal when active. If not you may have a poor connection between the BCM and the Yellow wire. This could be due to a loose terminal, a terminal not fully inserted, a terminal inserted into a neighboring cavity (I’ve done that) or a few other things. Does the button icon illuminate?

Just wanted to follow up with you TinkeringFox regarding how you went about this new mod as i am looking to do the same on my '18. I realize there are a few feasible ways of achieving this but appreciate your insight. Was this achieved at the bcm/switch or by simple hardwiring w/ diode?

[JonnyB]

here is a detailed instruction video