Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hello there.  New this this forum. Nice to meet you all.  I just bought a 2017 Yukon XL SLT.  I thought the towing capacity was 8300, but now that I'm reading more it looks like around 6300 without the HD towing package. We're looking at a travel trailer that is 5050 dry weight and 600lbs toung weight.  Seems like the Yukon can handle it even with adding water, but I wonder if it worth trying to add the HD towing package?  Is there an aftermarket way to do it or do I need to go a dealer? Any idea on the upgrade cost?

Edited by awhit22
Posted (edited)

Nothing you can change or add will change the factory tow rating. It is what it is when the vehicle is built.  

 

 

Edited by elcamino
Posted
3 hours ago, elcamino said:

Nothing you can change or add will change the factory tow rating. It is what it is when the vehicle is built.  

 

 

Thanks for the response.  Not trying to add addition tow capability, but trying to get to the max capacity of 8300 tow. Everything I'm reading shows the standard tow capacity to be 6300 for the Yukon XL out of the factory, but there is/was a HD towing package option for my model and year that will upgrade a few things to handle additional weight. Larger rear axle, upgraded cooling, different spring on back, (which I think is what silveradosid mentioned above), et . Was just curious to see if that can be added after by the factory or if there is a way to add those after the fact?

Posted (edited)

Anything can be added but at what cost?   


Lager axle means the whole rear assembly will need to be replaced and brakes may not be same either so more cost.

Upgraded cooling means replace radiator and other misc parts

Different springs will also require different shockes

 

Could cost $5,000+ if having to buy all new GM parts......Be better off looking for another vehicle equipped like you want because you still have a 5.3L engine.

Edited by elcamino
Posted
On 5/28/2020 at 7:17 AM, elcamino said:

Anything can be added but at what cost?   

 


Lager axle means the whole rear assembly will need to be replaced and brakes may not be same either so more cost.

Upgraded cooling means replace radiator and other misc parts

Different springs will also require different shockes

 

Could cost $5,000+ if having to buy all new GM parts......Be better off looking for another vehicle equipped like you want because you still have a 5.3L engine.

Apologies for the slow response.  Thanks for clarification. Makes sense.  

  • 2 months later...
Posted

So I am kinda in the same boat.  I am looking to pull a travel trailer around 5700 pounds.  I wanted to upgrade my 2018 Suburban but can't find a way to do it like other manufacturers do.  It may cost $2500-5000 dollars to do it but believe it or not, my depreciation would be more than that to trade for a newer better equipped one for.  Any suggestions o increasing capacity?  I did add an aftermarket Curt brake controller that made a world of a difference.  I have the Premier package on the vehicle, so I like all the bells and whistles of the car.  The axle ratio is the problem at 3.08.  Thank you in advance.

Posted

Its cause you have a 3.08 gear that you are limited to 6300. If you dig around on some forums there are lots of guys who tow just over that but complain that they have issues in mountains. Im sure GM put the 6300 tow rating with 3.08 gears for liability reasons and to avoid warranty repairs on rear ends and transmissions. Id do the free trans thermostat pill flip mod if you plan to tow a lot. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I went through this and ended up trading in my perfectly fine and low mileage 2017 Suburban for a 2019 Suburban Premier Plus with the 6.2L and 10-speed. I took a huge hit, but once I priced out trying to do what you are suggesting it wasn't worth it. The other problem is that the vehicle will remain rated for what it came from the factory with. This means if you go through a weigh station and they run your VIN and find you are overloaded you could pay a huge fine and be sidelined from continuing on your way. Heaven forbid if you are in an accident with the trailer and you are over the original tow rating you could be liable for damages and fines, as well. We tow a Winnebago Minnie Plus that is around 6700# loaded and it does fine. The Max Trailering package (which gets you the full tow rating) also gives you an integrated brake controller and trailer sway control that you won't get by adding an aftermarket brake controller. Bite the bullet and get the right truck for your trailer. It is worth it in the long run.

Edited by Miami Son
  • 6 months later...
Posted

trans cooler, Max tow radiator, 180 thermostat, activate the PE function and set it to come in around 60% throttle, get the trans tuned for towing, more line pressure,  and synth oil

 

also get

Posted

How can I figure out if the car does have HD towing? I checked several VIN Decoder but they seem to tell always the same tow capacity no matter what Yukon VIN I enter.

My 2017 SLT 4WD does have a Trailer Tow Brake on the left hand side, close to the steering wheel. Is this the ultimage sign of the package? The car doesn't have a VIN sticker and so I'm completely confused about the towing capacity.
Does anyone know how to figure out with 100% confidence?

Thanks

Posted

the free online vin decoders typically just have generic info.  you need the actual vin, then go to a dealer or there is a gm email address (don't know it offhand) that you can send the vin to, and they may email back the build sheet for the vehicle.

Posted

HD tow package should have RPO number for your vehicles chassis.  A brake controller means nothing. Max HD tow , is based on gear ratio and rear diff size, larger front rotors and caliper, oversized trans cooler, larger radiator.  etc...etc....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No ETA is available for that engine at the moment in the GM system.   I would start at the dealer.  Try and talk to the parts manager or service manager and see if they can start a CX Connect case and get an ETA from GM on when engines may be available.  If they just check Parts Workbench and say "no eta", they aren't trying hard enough.  They need to do a CX Connect and chat with DPAC to find the ETA.      
    • I would have to read back to get a better picture in my mind of some of the other comments and what they were using for a driving scenario they based the fuel mileage off of. That is why the fuel mileage conversation is extremely difficult to make fair comparisons from. If I was to be living in town and only driving around town, light to light and some longer stretches that doesn't have a light every block, and the usual stop at a grocery store and the bank and so on and so forth, my fuel mileage even during the summer time would be so bad with my truck I don't even want to know how bad it would be !. Then add in winter time and idling to warm it up to clear the windows and driving through snowy streets etc, large heavy trucks with gas engines have NEVER been worth crap for fuel mileage and why some little pot licker of a car with wheelbarrow tires and a 1300 cc four cylinder non turbo engine was the ticket to using a mere fraction of the fuel over a full size pickup.    By the way my truck has the 34" tires as its a HC but not the BFG KO3 tires ( that was an option for my truck but the sales guy couldn't figure out what the tires actually were so that never got on the order until it was too late to change the truck order ). So what fuel mileage your getting actually sounds good for "town driving" and with my truck when I go to town the fuel mileage keeps increasing as I get closer to town because it takes quite a while to get the driveline oils warmed up ( and why it always shows better fuel mileage on the return trip from town because its already warmed up ) but once I am in town that fuel mileage average just keeps dropping the more I mess around town and then has to recover back to something reasonable again by the time I get home for an over all average.    I'd be curious what your sticker says for the factory weight of your truck, mine is close around that 7700 lb due to the options it has. But anyway the long and short is, vehicle weight, higher rolling resistance heavy tires and a hefty driveline and a relatively large gas engine make for crap fuel mileage in stop and go scenarios, all one can do is drive it easy off the line at each stop and as my dad had said over the years, drive like a raw egg is under your foot and that's the best one can do. Years back with a carbed engine and if the carb was getting a bit out of tune etc as would the ignition system, the fuel mileage on pickups with larger engines was just awful compared to what your getting. We pay the fuel price penalty for driving HD trucks over some little vehicle, that is the reality. 
    • We had two Toyota’s with that engine in the mid 80s. We had 50 gallon fuel tanks, a toolbox full of tools, an air compressor and assorted parts for our equipment. We beat those up and down pipeline ROWs until we started buying diesel trucks. Then they became parts runners and first vehicles for our teenagers first cars. Our shop Forman wrecked them both two years apart when we hired him out of high school as an apprentice. Good thing he’s an excellent mechanic. It took awhile before he could be called a good driver.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...