Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Is there a "non-dealer" way to update my 2017 Silverado's navigation system to the current 2020 version? I looked on ebay & didn't see anything but I may have the wrong search. 

 

I had just received an email offer from Chevy to update to 2020 with a $60 discount that would only cost $100.? Was looking for a better $$ option.

Edited by rav3
Posted
21 minutes ago, Mike GMC said:

The only way I know is to plug in your phone and use Google maps.

yep, that's an option alright. Unfortunately, I don't have unlimited data. Still looking.....

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, rav3 said:

Is there a "non-dealer" way to update my 2017 Silverado's navigation system to the current 2020 version? I looked on ebay & didn't see anything but I may have the wrong search. 

 

I had just received an email offer from Chevy to update to 2020 with a $60 discount that would only cost $100.? Was looking for a better $$ option.

 

This is pretty much it and it is a "non-dealer" way.  Us dealers have to order them from here as well if a customer wants to update.  I tell them to just go to the site themselves and avoid me marking it up.  

 

https://gmnavdisc.navigation.com/home/en_US/GMNA/USD

 

I'd take advantage of the $60 off while you can.  They are all ordered by VIN so I don't think a used one would work as its got another truck's VIN burned to the file.  

Edited by newdude
Posted
8 hours ago, newdude said:

 

This is pretty much it and it is a "non-dealer" way.  Us dealers have to order them from here as well if a customer wants to update.  I tell them to just go to the site themselves and avoid me marking it up.  

 

https://gmnavdisc.navigation.com/home/en_US/GMNA/USD

 

I'd take advantage of the $60 off while you can.  They are all ordered by VIN so I don't think a used one would work as its got another truck's VIN burned to the file.  

I went to the website and read the instructions. Is it really that easy and straight forward? I can do this in my driveway?

Thanks newdude. I have read...countless numbers of your posts, all helpful. I appreciate what you put into this forum.

Posted
12 hours ago, ImHowl said:

I went to the website and read the instructions. Is it really that easy and straight forward? I can do this in my driveway?

Thanks newdude. I have read...countless numbers of your posts, all helpful. I appreciate what you put into this forum.

 

I did my 2016 Colorado when I had it.  It was that straight forward yes.  It comes with instructions on how to do it.  My Colorado had a USB stick, plug it in and let it do its thing.  I'd recommend doing it with the truck on that way there is no power interruption.  I think it took me 20 minutes or so?  

Posted
9 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

I did my 2016 Colorado when I had it.  It was that straight forward yes.  It comes with instructions on how to do it.  My Colorado had a USB stick, plug it in and let it do its thing.  I'd recommend doing it with the truck on that way there is no power interruption.  I think it took me 20 minutes or so?  

@newdude       how much did it cost? & could you see much difference?

Posted
6 hours ago, rav3 said:

@newdude       how much did it cost? & could you see much difference?

 

I got it during the $99 sale that they do like what is going on right now.  There were a few local roads that didn't show up before the update that did in my area.  Same for some newer housing developments that showed up.   

Posted

I updated to the 2019 maps last year. My 2018 Sierra was still showing old speed limits that were changed back in 2015. All good now. The update was pretty simple and straight forward. Took about 20 minutes to upload everything.

Posted

Thats pretty skeezy that they charge you 160 bucks to update the maps. Does the onboard navigation work any better than a phone? GPS reception better?

Posted

GPS uses a tiny amount of data. I used to use my phone constantly when traveling and never saw an appreciable use of data. And you're gonna pay all that money for a database that is inaccurate/outdated.

 

 

Google Maps/Android Auto/CarPlay is the future of in-car use. OE navigation is trash.

Posted
On 8/21/2020 at 10:20 AM, Cupton said:

I updated to the 2019 maps last year. My 2018 Sierra was still showing old speed limits that were changed back in 2015. All good now. The update was pretty simple and straight forward. Took about 20 minutes to upload everything.

Did the instructions say that it would take 50 minutes?

 

I have the 20 editions, but have not installed them because really don't want my truck idling in 90 plus degree weather while it updates from an hour. 

 

Posted
On 8/18/2020 at 1:32 PM, rav3 said:

yep, that's an option alright. Unfortunately, I don't have unlimited data. Still looking.....

When on wi-fi, download the google maps data for the area(s) you travel and save it.

Then it won't be using data for maps.

 

The ability is a feature built into google maps.

 

Also makes google maps continue to work when travelling in areas without cell service.

Posted
1 hour ago, JimCost2014 said:

Did the instructions say that it would take 50 minutes?

 

I have the 20 editions, but have not installed them because really don't want my truck idling in 90 plus degree weather while it updates from an hour. 

 

Sorry, I don’t remember the time estimate that it said. But I do remember it finishing faster, so the estimate was definitely longer than the 20 minutes or so it actually took over complete. 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...