Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2005 1500 5.3L 160k. Gotten this code. The O2 sensors are new in last 2 years. New Acdelco parts put on. Could i have a defective part? How to tell if sensor is actually bad? Or something else? Coolant temp sensor? Truck runs normally and no decrease in fuel economy.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

It won't change fuel mileage or running performance because it's the sensor after the cat converter.

 

The code says that it's possible there is a wiring issue with the sensor. Be it within the o2 sensor harness itself or with the wiring going down to the sensor.

 

If you want a free test that only takes your time you should flip flop the rear o2 sensors side to side. If the code changes to the Bank 1 sensor 2 fault, then you know that sensor is the cause. If the fault stays as a Bank 2 sensor 2 fault then you have issues with that side still.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
It won't change fuel mileage or running performance because it's the sensor after the cat converter.

 

The code says that it's possible there is a wiring issue with the sensor. Be it within the o2 sensor harness itself or with the wiring going down to the sensor.

 

If you want a free test that only takes your time you should flip flop the rear o2 sensors side to side. If the code changes to the Bank 1 sensor 2 fault, then you know that sensor is the cause. If the fault stays as a Bank 2 sensor 2 fault then you have issues with that side still.

Looked at it today. Took sensor out that is throwing the code. Last year put New sensor and put extender on it with also.. Well extender rotted out. Took it out with o2 sensor. Nothing is in there now. Drove it and CEL went off.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

So now got P0158 code. Swapped o2 sensors. It did not change the code. So its not the sensor then. Researching online it could be ECM, fuel pressure regulator, coolant temperature sensor. Thinking now changing coolant temp sensor. with scan tool its reading 192F. Shouldnt it be 210F? Have not done anything and CEL went back off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

The thermostat in that truck should be a 192 or 195 so that temp is normal. The cluster and real coolant temp are never the same, the gauge will always report higher than actual on those years.

 

I'd be looking at the harness now because both those codes are circuit codes.

  • Like 1
Posted
58 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

the gauge will always report higher than actual

How much higher? As in the gauge will show ~210 when it's actually ~195?

Posted

Yeah, pretty much.

 

The NBS and NNBS trucks are pretty well known for that. The gauge will be about 10-15 degrees over the actual temp in the engine. The later 2014-2018 trucks are a little more accurate but still off some. The newest trucks are much more spot on from everything I've seen.

 

Even the warm up temps are more off. Once it creeps past 160 degrees it's more like 120-130 degrees.

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The CEL now goes off on its own. Then will only come back on when truck is idling for over 4 minutes. Is it electrical? Some where in wiring?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

now its constant with cel code now.   now getting p0158.  High voltage in 02 sensor bank 2 sesnor 2.   could it still be the wiring?  going to check wire at some point.  

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

How do i test the sensor? What setting on multi meter. I tested it and getting 0.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

O2 sensors run from 0-1000mv, a good multimeter will have a Millivolt setting.

 

A properly working rear o2 sensor will switch back and forth as the engine warms up and settle around 600-700ish mv if the cat converter is working correctly. A bad sensor will read near zero or really high off the charts all the time.

Posted

I have blue driver scan tool. Hows it look? 53365c77bf85bbc296b214ec7652ac63.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

P0158 reflects what you see in the scanner. It's a high voltage code and the sensor is stuck around .900mv.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...