Jump to content

Oil pump

johnnypayne66
 Share

Recommended Posts

johnnypayne66 Enthusiast

johnnypayne66

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/18/2020 at 10:45 AM, Gangly said:

No reason to worry until there is a reason too :)

When you pick up the truck, ask for additional warranty on the drivetrain and go home with a smile knowing that your covered for an additional period of time above and beyond the normal.

Ask dealer for additional warranty?  I bought an extended warranty when I purchased truck.  
if you have experience with this please explain the process.  

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, johnnypayne66 said:

Ask dealer for additional warranty?  I bought an extended warranty when I purchased truck.  
if you have experience with this please explain the process.  

A repair under warranty doesn't mean they extend the warranty...

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, redwngr said:

A repair under warranty doesn't mean they extend the warranty...

No, but the part itself will have a warranty. Even OEM wiper blades have a two year warranty. The labor will not be covered unless it fails under the original warranty time/mileage. 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

No, but the part itself will have a warranty. Even OEM wiper blades have a two year warranty. The labor will not be covered unless it fails under the original warranty time/mileage. 

Agreed. 

 

The truck in question with the bad oil pump is a 2020, with 3500 miles --- I'm guessing, but the remaining factory powertrain is probably longer than the 'parts' warranty.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, redwngr said:

Agreed. 

 

The truck in question with the bad oil pump is a 2020, with 3500 miles --- I'm guessing, but the remaining factory powertrain is probably longer than the 'parts' warranty.

True. 

 

Ever notice people like zero risk warranties. Like getting a promise that once born life will be trouble free and eternal. 

?

  • Like 2
johnnypayne66 Enthusiast

johnnypayne66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

these are my oil pressure after new pump installed.  

52.5 oil pressure high RPM

 

Idle pressure is 30 PSI 

 

arrow indicates my highest oil pressure.  
 

if I understand this correctly each mark is 7.5 psi. 

8A51F463-3745-435E-95FA-A2E884628245.jpeg

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=13675

 

Engine Oil Pressure Gauge Changes Based on Engine Needs

September 17, 2020

Engine lubrication on all 2019-2020 Silverado 1500 and Sierra 1500 trucks is supplied by a variable displacement oil pump. An oil control solenoid valve, controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM), is mounted to the oil pump and varies engine oil pressure according to engine needs. As a result, the oil pressure may change quickly as the engine speed or load varies. Oil pressure may also vary with outside temperature and oil viscosity.

All of these factors play a role in the oil pressure displayed on the engine oil pressure gauge on the instrument cluster. (Fig. 16) In certain driving conditions, the oil pressure reading may drop or change quickly, which is part of normal engine operation. Some customers may question engine operation if the gauge shows more fluctuation and lower standard operating pressure than on previous models.

 

F16-oil-0-gauge-R.pngFig. 16

 

Any engine conditions that are outside of the normal operating range and require service will be indicated by a message on the Driver Information Center (DIC). A DTC may set and the oil pressure warning light may or may not illuminate, depending on the engine condition. If a DIC message is not displayed, the engine and the oil pressure gauge are operating as designed and no repairs should be attempted.

The engine oil level, recommended viscosity, and condition are critical to the correct operation of the system. Remind customers to check the engine oil level regularly and follow all scheduled maintenance.

 

Variable Oil Pressure

The engine oil pressure control solenoid valve is used to control engine oil pressure inside the mechanical engine oil pump. (Fig. 17, shown on V8 engine RPOs L82, L84, L87) The control module controls the commanded state of the solenoid valve based on the following inputs:

  • Engine speed
  • Calculated engine oil temperature
  • Engine oil pressure
  • Engine run time

 

When the solenoid valve is commanded Off, oil pressure is higher. When the solenoid valve is commanded On, oil pressure is lower.

 

F17-oil-4-L8247-oil-pump.pngFig. 17

 

TIP: On the 2.7L engine (RPO L3B), oil pressure may be as low as 26-28 psi (179-193 kPa) under normal operating conditions at road speed. The oil pressure at this level is normal and is not associated with any engine durability issues. If the oil pressure is not correct for current conditions, as commanded from the ECM to the variable oil pump, a DIC message will be displayed.

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
johnnypayne66 Enthusiast

johnnypayne66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update on repair service.  Driven around two hundred miles since pump replacement.  
 

 

truck drives and operates as before oil pump failure.   

 

only complaint I have is dealer wasn’t as careful with cleanliness as I am.  I had to spend a couple of hours detailing the inside of truck .  

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, johnnypayne66 said:

Update on repair service.  Driven around two hundred miles since pump replacement.  
 

 

truck drives and operates as before oil pump failure.   

 

only complaint I have is dealer wasn’t as careful with cleanliness as I am.  I had to spend a couple of hours detailing the inside of truck .  

Send him a bill for the cleaning.

? 

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...