Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2002 gmc sierra 1500 denali with the lq4, was running 45 psi fuel pressure idling i then changed the regulator and pump and now idles at 50 psi and is sluggish, if i remove the vacuum line on the regulator the pressure rises to 60 like oem spec says and it runs much better like this. My question is can i run the truck without the vacuum line connected? Will it go lean? Can i cap the line off? Definitely idles and pulls better with the line off.

Posted

With that port open to intake,you're leaning it out,or compensating for another issue,put it back original,try cleaning the maf,or throw it on a scanner,lazy c.t.s could run it rich

Posted
3 hours ago, riverbanks said:

With that port open to intake,you're leaning it out,or compensating for another issue,put it back original,try cleaning the maf,or throw it on a scanner,lazy c.t.s could run it rich

Well with the vacuum line on my afr's are roughly 14.xx with that off they did go to 14.08 which seems lean to me but not much different from before. I really dont understand the truck its a 6.0 mated to a 4l65e with a 4.10 rear end so it should pull like a train but our escalade that is the same setup only with 3.73 rear end and supposed 10 more hp blows the doors off it like im not even moving lol

Posted
2 minutes ago, riverbanks said:

That's at idle?what's the afr at 1500 and 2k rpms?

yeah it idles between 14.05 and 14.1 under load it stays around 14.5. i feel like its begging for more fuel, the ignition timing also goes up to about 55-60 degrees at 4k

Posted

Anything outside of power enrichment will run at or around stoich.

 

Stoich is going to be 14.68 in the tune and a wideband o2 sensor will report around 14-15 afr at idle and basically any rpm when not is power enrichment. You could zing the idle speed to 3,000rpm and it should still stay around 14-15 afr.

 

Once the engine is under the load the vacuum in the intake will cause the fuel pressure to rise. You should be able to watch that with the fuel pressure gauge as you drive.

 

I would be curious about other things like fuel trims for possible vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks.

Posted (edited)

So i dont have like Hp Tuners all ive got is my obd scanner. At idle with the vacuum line connected Afr is 14.08 (which ended up being the same as the line off), Fuel flow was 0.37 gallons an hour (I will hook up my pressure gauge to the line when i get home) And coolant temp was 180. At 1500 rpm with line connected afr stayed at 14.08 fuel flow jumped to 1.29 gallons an hour. And at 2000 Rpm with line conected afr was still 14.08, fuel flow 1.65 gal/hr. For all of these data runs the coolant temp stayed at 180 and IAT's stayed at 37.4

Edited by LowKeyIdiots

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
    • Very often the part number on the trim part is just for the vendor order/assembly plant and will not show up in the parts system.  They won't make a bunch of extra parts that were not ordered. Keep in mind, lots of these parts were made to be "just in time" parts meaning they were dedicated to a vehicles ordered and sequenced for assembly.       Also, trim parts will often say, paint to match.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...