Jump to content

Which oil filter?

Kclyatt
 Share

Recommended Posts

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Gray Fox said:

1.) So I guess you are doing what I wasn’t going to do.

2.) So I guess you were telling me that I shouldn’t use a K&N filter.

3.) Maybe Delco will put a nut on their’s so they will come off. 

1.) What is that? 

 

2.) Nope I don't tell people what to do. I supply useful information. Do with it as you please. 

 

3.) I have no issue removing the filter with a cup wrench. No one I know does. 

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

CamGTP
CamGTP

If paint overspray on metal filter body is a concern to you, I don't even want to know what other little things in your life you complain about. Get a grip people.

UGADawgs
UGADawgs

At the end of the day, it really doesn't matter what you use. Engines last 200-300k miles and failures/rebuilds/etc are never due to what type of filters are used in most of vehicles on the road. On t

Vicarod
Vicarod

Kept thinking about this thread last nite.  I feel that my comment was a bit cavalier and didn’t provide enough information into my thoughts on the matter of oil filtration.   First, it make

Posted Images

PPK Enthusiast

PPK

Posted
Posted

This 5.3 is pretty new - 11,000 miles. Not much iron on the magnet. My other vehicle - JGC has a pentastar 3.6 and 3 or 4 times the shiny accusation of iron with 9000 miles on it with a similar magnetic drain plug.

 

i am thinking the design difference is in the chains. The v8 has one chain and the jeep has 6 i think. The jeep also has a lot of rollers in the valve train. Hardening is a big factor in how much iron ends up in the oil.. but so is the design. 

 

I don’t really like the tiny filter on the 5.3 but GM might know what it is doing, too.

image.jpeg

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

A filter removes wear particles in a effort to minimize three body wear. It can not be eliminated as these particles are a result of two body wear that happens before filtration. Ergo these particles must be flushed from the source, to the pump pickup and onward. Let's just say the filter minimizes recycling them. 

 

A filter removes the agglomerate of oil degradation which prevents thickening and restriction. Plugging things like lifter bleeds or servo passages and so on. 

 

A filter protects smaller failures from becoming larger failures. Flaking of a cam lobe from taking out a rod bearing, i.e. 

 

A mechanical units 'life time' is the measurement in some unit that matters to the designer before wear alters dimensions to the point they no longer function as the designer intended. 

 

This last point (bold) depends on not just it's design but on it's care and on it's use. The engineer only has control over the first, influence over the second and hope, at best, for the last.

 

That same bold paragraph means that dimensions dictate things like oil pressure, thus point of supply volume, cooling and sealing. So for the engineer failure is the point of specified oil pressure or cylinder leak down or maximum temperatures. 

 

For the end user that paragraph might mean when the compression is so low it will not start, the oil pressure takes out a major component or it boils oil or water dry. 

 

Ergo the LEDGENDS are born. I ran a crap filter for 200K and it ran just fine....:banghead:  When in fact three of the eight cylinders are more than 20% different, it uses a quart in 300 miles, there' s a lifter tick and a rod knock but darn boys, it starts and makes it to work. 

 

 

  • Like 1
txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

Word of the day:

 

Agglomerate:  collect or form into a mass or group

 

 

 

:)

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

My first house in Texas had a well. In some areas we’d have a slight sand problem. I added a filter. I started with the most bad ass filter. It didn’t go a week clogged up. My dilemma was good filtration versus wear to appliances. The goal was decent duty cycle verses water starvation. In an engine a restricted filter would mean bypass. I imagine there is such thing as too much of a good thing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RWTJR Enthusiast

RWTJR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Why does GM recommend the ACDelco PF63E for our trucks over of the arguably better ACDelco UPF63R?

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

No expertise implied or expressed

Edited by RWTJR
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, RWTJR said:

Why does GM recommend the ACDelco PF63E for our trucks over of the arguably better ACDelco UPF63R?

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

No expertise implied or expressed

This is one of those times you have to ask what is meant by "Better" (and this always gets me in trouble). 

 

Mechanical construction? Yep, hands down stronger in every way. Is it required? Not really for hauling/towing. 

Filtering efficiency? :dunno: I can find no publish information on that specification. That said my gut says NO. Why? Because it is meant for service of a track day meaning flow takes priority over efficiency. That is but a guess and as a thought is but a guess I feel on solid ground. I would love to be proved in error with some data. ? 

 

 

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, RWTJR said:

Why does GM recommend the ACDelco PF63E for our trucks over of the arguably better ACDelco UPF63R?

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

No expertise implied or expressed

i tore apart a few AC delco cheapo $3 filters, and have to say the quality is plenty good for 5000 miles of easy daily driving . not recommended for high revving race motors. but daily truck is great

 

i would focus on giving the transmission more in terms support and clean fluids and a bypass filter change every 10k

Edited by flyingfool
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

A mechanical units 'life time' is the measurement in some unit that matters to the designer before wear alters dimensions to the point they no longer function as the designer intended. 

Wear is an inevitable outcome of use, (Tribology basics for linear bearings).

 

GM and others have recently started removing dipsticks from transmissions and calling them "Lubricated for Life" or "Lifetime Fluids". It a funny term without a specific definition but industry wide it means that the device will not require lubrication service over it's......wait for it......."useful service life".

 

Tucked away in your glovebox is the owners manual with a service schedule that will instruct you to have it's fluid exchanged at a dealer at 95K miles under normal driving or 45K under severe service conditions. Well there's a tattletail if ever one I saw. 

 

  All 2020 Chevrolet and GMC cars, vans, crossovers and light-duty pickup trucks come with our Powertrain Limited Warranty, which is 5 years/100,000 miles†(2) for customers†(1) with a qualifying fleet account(s)†(1), 5 years/60,000 miles†(2) for retail buyers and 5 years/100,000 miles†(2) for HD diesel pickups. (GMfleet) 

 

And the last piece above indicates that the same vehicle will have a different warranty length and service schedule depending upon its.....USE....or service type. Which goes back to the first paragraph in this rant. 

 

Wear is in greater part a function of USE! 

To a lesser part functions of lubrication and filtration.

 

Useful service life for purposes of maintenance scheduling and warranty length is then determined by what the manufacture determines to be 'normal' and 'severe' use. Normal and severe is an indication of.......

 

Load and Speed

 

These numbers are not publicly available but they are a good deal higher than the majority of users will subject their machines to.

 

So that means the users that get 200K or 300K out of their machines have more to brag about in the way they USED the machine than the products they used to maintain it. 

 

 

image.png.eef53b0899217153c8bbb692c9c53a30.png

 

A sample calculation for a ball or roller bearing. Easiest one to get the noggin around. The L10 is the bearings 'designed service life'. P is the load and N is the speed. The lower those two numbers are the greater the length of service will be. Note the 'e'? That denotes than ANY reduction in load or speed in multiplied by a 'factor'..in the case of a ball for example, by a factor of 3. For a roller 3 to the 10th. For a sleeve bearing .....allot. 

 

While you watch this concluding video ask yourself if it was the Schaeffer oil, the service schedule or the use that permitted this motor to go a million miles and maintain new like dimensions and cleanliness. 

 

When Mobil did their million mile BMW on a roof top rolling road was it the oil or the use? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, flyingfool said:

holy smokes thats amaizing!!!!!!!!!!

Prisoner transport,  NCY Taxi Cabs and roof top million mile motors all have something in common. Very low loads and very rarely are they ever subject to a short heat cycle. 

 

People think a motor is up to heat when the thermostat opens. Not even close. The oil temperature must reach 175 F minimum and be held there for at least an hour. This time of year it might take 25 miles on the highway to just reach 175 F bulk oil temperature. 

 

A real sludge maker to miss that mark repeatedly. Tis why short oil change intervals and really REALLY good oil filters are more important to the inner city commuter than the traveling salesman. Oxides of Nitrogen have a hard time getting into the oil if it's temperature is above 175 and an hour there is long enough even at that low temperature to drive H2) down under 100 ppm. If the two can be kept separate then sludge and corrosion products generated by nitric compounds are limited. 

 

If you've ever had a thermostat fail open and found white foam in the filler cap or breathers you've observed the being of the end for the oil. Same thing can and will happen if the trip length is to short and the oil temperature to cool.

 

Oil companies pulling off these crazy long mileage claims under such ideal circumstances are playing on the ignorance of the public.

 

   

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

 I AM Legend!! 

 

Note how nice this motor runs on the dyno then watch the tear down.

 

The USPS felt the OEM maintenance program was 'Good Enough"?

That the OEM choices of fluids and filters was Good Enough? 

 

In a private setting such an owner is now convinced for all time that this 'way' is the:

"End All, Be All"  

 

Take special note of the condition of the lifters and bearings in this motor.

Take note of the comments he makes about the cam.

Observe the timing chain.

 

Thing ran like a Swiss watch and quite as a mouse.

Had good compression pressure!!

Totally worn out.

 

This is exactly how people get convinced that the OEM filter and OEM oil changed at OEM OCI"s is the last word. 

It did make it out of warranty!

And into civilian life.

 

 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, Steve-2019 said:

In your own mind....?

Didn't read the post and watch the video did ya?

Title isn't about me sport. 

RWTJR Enthusiast

RWTJR

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

The USPS felt the OEM maintenance program was 'Good Enough"?

That the OEM choices of fluids and filters was Good Enough?

 

If the point you're attempting to make is that the engine in this video is in such poor shape because it was maintained per OEM guidelines and fluids, I have questions.

 

What leads you to believe the USPS uses the OEM maintenance program and OEM fluid and filters? Additionally, is the maintenance program used during civilian ownership of this vehicle known? How many years with the USPS, how many as a civilian jeep?

 

I don't find using a 40 to 50 year old vehicle with an unknown maintenance history to be a compelling example of the failure of OEM fluids and filters to protect.

 

JMHO

No expertise implied or expressed

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Vu1can
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Vu1can · Posted

      Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • davester
      Broke Down on the Mountain

      By davester · Posted

      maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Carlos Eduardo Silva
      adding 360 surround view, UVI (Trailer Camera) package to UVS (Surround/invisible Trailer) Upgrade 2020 Silverado RST

      By Carlos Eduardo Silva · Posted

      Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...