Jump to content

Bose upgrades ?

GS357 S

By GS357 S
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

BassDaggett
BassDaggett

I added the JL Audio C1 component 6x9 in the front door and the tweeter in dash.  Added JL Audio C1 6.5" in the rear door.  Added dynamat to doors.  Night and day difference from the muddy Bose speake

shudog
shudog

interesting, thanks for sharing.  I'm 95% certain I could do all that with 100% certainty of breaking some fasteners and scuffing up the trim panels.     Very interested to hear how you feel

Therickyp
Therickyp

Yes sir. Fade the sound all the way to the rear. You’ll see that the rear speakers sound terrible.    I bought the Kicker 46CSC654 for the rears from crutchfield. There are a lot of options on

Posted Images

gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, Therickyp said:

Replacing just the rear speakers makes a huge difference. 

Rear speakers as in the ones in the rear doors?

 

Is there a direct fit bolt in that you would recommend? 

Therickyp Enthusiast

Therickyp

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, gemarsh said:

Rear speakers as in the ones in the rear doors?

 

Is there a direct fit bolt in that you would recommend? 

Yes sir. Fade the sound all the way to the rear. You’ll see that the rear speakers sound terrible. 
 

I bought the Kicker 46CSC654 for the rears from crutchfield. There are a lot of options on their website that are vehicle specific. The speakers also come with the proper connectors. 

  • Thanks 1
Wakinvol Enthusiast

Wakinvol

Posted
Posted

Can’t go wrong with Crutchfield.  They will help with everything you need.  I’ve been using them for 30 years. 

Pswa320 Enthusiast

Pswa320

Posted
Posted
21 hours ago, GS357 S said:

What is the ohm rating for the factory Bose speakers you replaced?  Did you go back with 4 ohms?

So your using the bose up front and kickers in rear?

 

 

Rob Mugs Enthusiast

Rob Mugs

Posted
Posted
On 2/20/2021 at 6:33 AM, Therickyp said:

Yes sir. Fade the sound all the way to the rear. You’ll see that the rear speakers sound terrible. 
 

I bought the Kicker 46CSC654 for the rears from crutchfield. There are a lot of options on their website that are vehicle specific. The speakers also come with the proper connectors. 

I noticed this the other day myself.  ZERO bass and crap mids and highs.  Don't happen to have a before and after do ya?  

 

Also, I know the older Bose systems (eg my 2001 Caddy Eldo) used weird ratings like 1.5 or 2 ohm.  Is that the case in these trucks?

Therickyp Enthusiast

Therickyp

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, Rob Mugs said:

I noticed this the other day myself.  ZERO bass and crap mids and highs.  Don't happen to have a before and after do ya?  

 

Also, I know the older Bose systems (eg my 2001 Caddy Eldo) used weird ratings like 1.5 or 2 ohm.  Is that the case in these trucks?

I don't have a before and after sound clip. The Bose system in these trucks do have a wierd ohm rating from what i have read. 

BassDaggett Enthusiast

BassDaggett

Posted
Posted

I added the JL Audio C1 component 6x9 in the front door and the tweeter in dash.  Added JL Audio C1 6.5" in the rear door.  Added dynamat to doors.  Night and day difference from the muddy Bose speakers. 

  • Like 3
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, BassDaggett said:

I added the JL Audio C1 component 6x9 in the front door and the tweeter in dash.  Added JL Audio C1 6.5" in the rear door.  Added dynamat to doors.  Night and day difference from the muddy Bose speakers. 

I just ordered this exact same setup from crutchfield today for my elevation...like $300....I dont need a stupid auido system... just want a clean sound and dont have to crank volume, i know you can get crazy with these things

 

good to hear your happy and I dont even have the Bose, did you do it yourself or have it installed? and did you dynamat whole door or just where the speakers are?

Edited by Dunn
GS357 S Enthusiast

GS357 S

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, BassDaggett said:

I added the JL Audio C1 component 6x9 in the front door and the tweeter in dash.  Added JL Audio C1 6.5" in the rear door.  Added dynamat to doors.  Night and day difference from the muddy Bose speakers. 

This sounds like a great solution.  Were the JL Audio a direct replacement speaker for the factory Bose?  Did you lose some power assuming you went with a higher ohm speaker?

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, GS357 S said:

This sounds like a great solution.  Were the JL Audio a direct replacement speaker for the factory Bose?  Did you lose some power assuming you went with a higher ohm speaker?

Crutchfield is great......they tell you exactly what you can use, you punch in your vehicle specifics and intentons and they spit out all the options you can use.....check them out

 

JL C1 is direct replacement you can use for factory or with amp.....

 

 

https://video.crutchfield.com/v/crutchfield-jl-audio-c1-series-car-speakers/225294977

 

Pswa320 Enthusiast

Pswa320

Posted
Posted
On 2/20/2021 at 7:58 PM, GS357 S said:

 

would replacing just the rears factory bose speakers with the 6.5” c1’s improve the sound in rear?

 

im quite happy with sound up front so hesitant replacing all of that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • davester
      cam upgrade in CA

      By davester · Posted

      apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • davester
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By davester · Posted

      yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...