Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

FYI.  My 2019 AT4 has 29,500 miles and around 15,000 of those miles with the Rough Country AT4 specific 2" leveling kit and Toyo Open Country 285/75/18 (i.e., 35") tires.  Truck has seen limited and light off road use.  Mostly highway miles.  The left upper control arm bushings are really trashed.  There's about 1/8" - 1/4" play in the bushings.  The right also show they're on the way out with significant bushing wear but nowhere near as bad as left.  UCA ball joints seem fine and tight.  I heard the left UCA making noise which is what alerted me that there was an issue.  The lower arms are fine.

 

Took to dealer today and they are replacing both UCAs under warranty.  They know the truck is leveled 2" with a leveling kit and of course know I have 35"s on it.  FWIW, I have a really good relationship with my service advisor.

 

I'm not certain the leveling kit and tires destroyed the bushings but I'm at a loss to think what else it could be.  Truck is otherwise stock.  Posting just to give you guys a heads up.  The truck was aligned after installation of leveling kit.

 

I hope I'm not going to be replacing UCAs every other time I get the oil changed but I am concerned...

Edited by rikhek
Posted

How long will it take everyone to realize stacked leveling kits will destroy the stock UCA, luckily it was the UCA and not a cvd coming apart.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

  • Like 6
Posted
11 minutes ago, AdamAT4 said:

How long will it take everyone to realize stacked leveling kits will destroy the stock UCA, luckily it was the UCA and not a cvd coming apart.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

Well, if the truck were level from the factory I wouldn't have had to install a "leveling" kit on top of the factory leveling kit you reference.  I appreciate what you're saying but I'm just sayin'.....

Posted

To be fair it’s a factory lift, not level. They aren’t level on purpose.


There’s posts all the time about blown out CV axles, broken upper ball joints, etc. from leveling kits. I mean it’s like one a week between here and Facebook. Worn bushings seems like the best case scenario. These trucks really just don’t like it.


I dunno, I buy new so I don’t have to worry about a wheel falling off. Aftermarket UCAs are the only way I’d do it.

  • Like 2
Posted

Just my opinion, but I never did understand what the real purpose of a so called leveling kit was, when the first time you add weight to the bed or hook up a trailer at night the head lights are shining up in the trees. ???  Or in somebody's eyes..

  • Like 3
  • Haha 1
Posted
2 hours ago, OnTheReel said:

To be fair it’s a factory lift, not level. They aren’t level on purpose.


There’s posts all the time about blown out CV axles, broken upper ball joints, etc. from leveling kits. I mean it’s like one a week between here and Facebook. Worn bushings seems like the best case scenario. These trucks really just don’t like it.


I dunno, I buy new so I don’t have to worry about a wheel falling off. Aftermarket UCAs are the only way I’d do it.

That's the somewhat tongue-in-cheek comment I made in last post.  Mostly all vehicles anymore have a stink bug stance that I despise.

 

One of the reasons I made the post is that I'm unaware of people having problems with bushings with the setup I have.  It's why I posted the ball joints are in great shape.  I was surprised I have a bushing issue.

Posted
15 minutes ago, rikhek said:

That's the somewhat tongue-in-cheek comment I made in last post.  Mostly all vehicles anymore have a stink bug stance that I despise.

 

One of the reasons I made the post is that I'm unaware of people having problems with bushings with the setup I have.  It's why I posted the ball joints are in great shape.  I was surprised I have a bushing issue.

Weight and travel. How much do the new tires and wheels weigh over stock?  15, 20 pounds? Put a one pound batting weight on a bat and hold it out straight and then move it up and down quickly. Try that again with a 3 pound weight. The forces are huge. The bushings are the fulcrum. This is a class two lever. The tire is the force, the shock centerline the load. 

 

Ever hear of these guys?  https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/about-control-arm-bushings.asp Much stronger. 

Posted

If the level was installed without relaxing the arm pivot bolts while the truck is at ride height, the bushings are always in a twisted/bound position which will undoubtedly significantly reduce the lifespan, not to mention worse ride and handling. I see this on 95% of lowered/lifted vehicles when i go to align them at work.

30k on the audi bushing pictured e1894b63716007b42cad8d188b070ecb.jpg

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, WhiteLTZ01 said:

If the level was installed without relaxing the arm pivot bolts while the truck is at ride height, the bushings are always in a twisted/bound position which will undoubtedly significantly reduce the lifespan, not to mention worse ride and handling. I see this on 95% of lowered/lifted vehicles when i go to align them at work.

30k on the audi bushing pictured e1894b63716007b42cad8d188b070ecb.jpg

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

BINGO we have a winner. 

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, WhiteLTZ01 said:

If the level was installed without relaxing the arm pivot bolts while the truck is at ride height, the bushings are always in a twisted/bound position which will undoubtedly significantly reduce the lifespan, not to mention worse ride and handling. I see this on 95% of lowered/lifted vehicles when i go to align them at work.

30k on the audi bushing pictured e1894b63716007b42cad8d188b070ecb.jpg

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

I thank you for your insight.  I don't believe the bolts were loosened when installing the kit to allow them to relax and re-index themselves.  I followed the Rough Country directions and they never mentioned this.  I'm a bit embarrassed I didn't think of this while installing.  Worse yet, I now remember loosening the bolts on my last truck when I installed a leveling kit as I could feel they were in a bind after installing the "spacers" and putting it back together.  Humiliating.... 

Edited by rikhek
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Weight and travel. How much do the new tires and wheels weigh over stock?  15, 20 pounds? Put a one pound batting weight on a bat and hold it out straight and then move it up and down quickly. Try that again with a 3 pound weight. The forces are huge. The bushings are the fulcrum. This is a class two lever. The tire is the force, the shock centerline the load. 

 

Ever hear of these guys?  https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/about-control-arm-bushings.asp Much stronger. 

Wheels are stock.  Weight difference would be the differential between a 33" DuraTrac and a 35" Toyo.  Not insignificant and surely a contributing factor.  That's why I included the fact that I was running 35s in my post.  I'm familiar with energy Suspension bushings from race cars and have used teir products.  They don't show an application for anything newer than a 2013.  Thanks for your input.

Edited by rikhek
  • Like 1
Posted

serious question, I had a level on previous truck for years with no UCA issues. 

 

How common are UCA issues with a spacer level? The posters above mention how common issues are but I dont really see it.

 

 

Posted (edited)
32 minutes ago, RPaul said:

 

I wonder the same thing

 

Edited by puppykat33
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, RPaul said:

serious question, I had a level on previous truck for years with no UCA issues. 

 

How common are UCA issues with a spacer level? The posters above mention how common issues are but I dont really see it.

 

 

The issue mentioned above deals with spacers on TB's and AT4's where the suspension is already lifted.  Most people who stick with 1" spacers are fine, but once you go above 1.5" and start getting in the 2" range, there are significantly more reported issues with ball joint failures.  Rikhek is dealing with a bushing failure, something seen not nearly as often and might be the first instance I have seen on the T1's

Edited by Gangly
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,290 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...