Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
5 minutes ago, bigbulls said:

Sorry it took so long my contact was on vacation. Your engine was built in Spring Hill Tennessee.

 

 

Thanks Firehawk99 I just crawled under and took a picture of my Julian tag and it starts with N and I was going to ask the same question. May 12th 2021 for me and Vin build date is 6/21 so it looks like it's running about 3 weeks to a month difference from engine build to truck build. Thanks again for all your info.

Anytime! Happy to help out.

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Firehawk99 said:

Sorry it took so long my contact was on vacation. Your engine was built in Spring Hill Tennessee. 

Thank you, Firehawk99!

  • Like 1
Posted

Back in the shop, after all lifters and a bent pushrod were replaced I picked it up and started shaking badly at about 40 mph and on light acceleration or when coasting. Was able to get it home, called my local dealer who said no appointments until 9/20 or drop it off and they will get to it when they do. Continued driving it as it wasn't horrible and no check engine light until I started smelling burning oil. Look under the hood and see oil pooling on the the intake manifold dripping down onto the exhaust manifold. Didn't have a choice but to drop it off at the point. Now waiting 5 days as it's a holiday weekend to be looked at without a loaner.  Take as long as you want to repair it, once it reaches a total of 30 days I will get and attorney and proceed with lemon law. GM is useless and their " senior rep" never picks up her phone. Horrible customer service. 

Posted
On 8/5/2021 at 3:31 PM, Firehawk99 said:

Any trucks built after 3-4-21 should be fine. That is the break point.

My question is, what changed? Hardware or software? 

Posted

I bought my trail boss in March , just over 7000 miles , was told they are going to replace all lifters. They won't send me a copy of the bulletin. Anyone know the exact cause for the lifter failure , they said the springs but I read somewhere it was from bent push rod.

Posted

I have a 2021 Denali w/6.2 that has a truck built date of 02/21.... have 13k miles on it... I haven't noticed any issues yet, should I get the Pulsar sooner rather than later?  thanks!!

Posted
On 8/5/2021 at 12:31 PM, Firehawk99 said:

Any trucks built after 3-4-21 should be fine. That is the break point.

 

On 8/5/2021 at 1:26 PM, Firehawk99 said:

I work for GM at the Tonawanda engine plant. We build the 4.3, 5.3, 6.2 and the 6.6.


can you confirm is this the lifter sound of a possible issue?  This is on a 2021 Tahoe with the 5.3

https://youtu.be/4XMoY7Y1e1k

Posted
2 hours ago, Firehawk99 said:

It sure sounds like it to me. I would park it and have the dealer come pick it up.

Cool, thanks 🙏🏽 luckily it’s on a vid I pulled from another forum. I asked here because at first to me it sounded like injectors similar to this video at 5:20+

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
9 hours ago, Firehawk99 said:

Your engine was built in Canada at the St. Catharines powertrain plant.

Awesome! Thanks for checking on it. Do you know if it’s possible to get an engine build sheet?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...