Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 8/23/2021 at 10:23 AM, Black02Silverado said:

Switched our 2016 Suburban's transmission over to AMSOIL ATL fluid at 10k miles from new. 

Have you had any issues since it was switched and does your transmission shift smoother? I have been considering going with Amsoil for my transmission and transfer case the next time around. I put the severe gear fluid in my axles when I changed the driveline fluids at 30,000 miles.

Posted
Just now, steelerdude15 said:

Have you had any issues since it was switched and does your transmission shift smoother? I have been considering going with Amsoil for my transmission and transfer case the next time around. I put the severe gear fluid in my axles when I changed the driveline fluids at 30,000 miles.

No issues at all and it shifts great.  I change all the fluids over real early when we bought it new.  I think it was around 10k miles on the Burb when I switched the diffs, transmission, and transfer case.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

No issues at all and it shifts great.  I change all the fluids over real early when we bought it new.  I think it was around 10k miles on the Burb when I switched the diffs, transmission, and transfer case.

I see that there are two options, the signature series and the oe fuel efficient. Which one is the better choice?

Posted
Just now, steelerdude15 said:

I see that there are two options, the signature series and the oe fuel efficient. Which one is the better choice?

The Signature Series is the best option. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
On 8/23/2021 at 7:54 AM, elcamino said:

Avoid GM/AC Delco at all cost.  If not AMSOIL, then go Mobil 1 as 2nd best.  Nothing but problems with GM branded Dexron in new 6 and 8 speeds.  Contrary to popular belief Dexon is not synthetic and the transmissions perform better with 100% Synthetic ATF. 

 

11 hours ago, swathdiver said:

 

Dexron VI is full synthetic.

 

 

What issues?

 

44 minutes ago, steelerdude15 said:

ACDelco has a regular mineral fluid and a synthetic one. They have different part numbers.

 

I think the point is being synthetic is not a Dexron VI requirement. Note the MSDS for Citgo Dexron VI below in example:

 

http://www.docs.citgo.com/msds_pi/633140001.pdf

 

DEXRON is a trade name. VI identifies both the frictional nature of the fluid and it's viscosity range. 

 

ACDelco 10-9395 is the mineral oil

ACDelco 10-9244 is the synthetic

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Posted
34 minutes ago, steelerdude15 said:

Okay, thank you for your help. I appreciate it.

You're welcome.  :)

  • Like 2
Posted
15 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

 

 

I think the point is being synthetic is not a Dexron VI requirement. Note the MSDS for Citgo Dexron VI below in example:

 

http://www.docs.citgo.com/msds_pi/633140001.pdf

 

DEXRON is a trade name. VI identifies both the frictional nature of the fluid and it's viscosity range. 

 

ACDelco 10-9395 is the mineral oil

ACDelco 10-9244 is the synthetic

I'm missing something somewhere.  Our 2006 Pontiac was the first vehicle to take Dexron VI and the fluid then was full synthetic.

 

Every container of ACDelco Dexron VI that I've bought for the GMC has been full synthetic, it said so on the box and the MSDS for each part number.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, swathdiver said:

I'm missing something somewhere.  Our 2006 Pontiac was the first vehicle to take Dexron VI and the fluid then was full synthetic.

 

Every container of ACDelco Dexron VI that I've bought for the GMC has been full synthetic, it said so on the box and the MSDS for each part number.

 

I don't know what to do with this James. I provided two examples of DEXRON VI fluids that are not synthetics. Both Citgo and AC-Delco.

 

I don't think it is a matter of missing something as much as it is a matter of changing landscapes. This is just like Mobil 1's move from PAO to Group III and never telling a soul. I don't believe it was ever a requirement but it was, at one time, a fact that there were few and all were synthetic. I expect that sooner or later, sooner than later, someone took note that the base oil was not part of the spec and as viscosity and friction can be met with a cheaper Group II...BINGO as they say....a margin is improved.    

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Posted
On 8/24/2021 at 1:03 AM, swathdiver said:

What issues?

Mostly torque converter from what Ive seen online. I had my trans flushed at the dealer at 45k and 90k and the torque converter let go and ruined the trans at 95k.

Posted (edited)

anyone try going clutchless converter, maybe lower stall to comp. for lack of lock up like on the old 70's smog cars before tcc? i remember th350s went as low as 900-1200 rpm stall

Edited by pokismoki
  • Like 1
Posted

I have been using Valvoline MaxLife ATF since my first change around 60k and I'm at 165k. Transmission still shifts great. It's usually available at Walmart for around $18 a gallon.

  • Like 1
Posted
42 minutes ago, gone_fishing said:

I have been using Valvoline MaxLife ATF since my first change around 60k and I'm at 165k. Transmission still shifts great. It's usually available at Walmart for around $18 a gallon.

How often have you been changing it? 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...