2016 Sierra 1500 2wd - Will 3" drop shackle in back cause me problems?

[SouthwestORV]

I'm thinking I might order a $60 set of 2-3" drop shackles for the back of my pickup. However, it's my understanding that nothing in a rear drop shackle affects spring rates, which means that in theory the truck would more easily bottom out, and hit the bump stops. I do not plan to lower the front, just level the truck a little by lowering the rear. Any feedback from those who have done it? Perhaps it's a none issue, or there is something that can be done to mitigate the suspension bottoming. Most of the time I cruise the truck down the highway and around town. But then on occasion - perhaps 3X per year - I haul a 2400 lb pallet of flooring in the bed 3 hours from Phoenix to home, or I hook up and tow a large/heavy trailer. I love the idea of the bed being lower and more accessible for loading/unloading, and I wouldn't mind it being a little easier to get in/out. I'm only 5'7". Plus I think it would look nice.   

[James Dink]

it's fine, did the same to my last 2500. I had to cut part of the bolt head flat to get it in without removing the bed, just saved time. 

[JimCost2014]

14 minutes ago, SouthwestORV said:

I'm thinking I might order a $60 set of 2-3" drop shackles for the back of my pickup. However, it's my understanding that nothing in a rear drop shackle affects spring rates, which means that in theory the truck would more easily bottom out, and hit the bump stops. I do not plan to lower the front, just level the truck a little by lowering the rear. Any feedback from those who have done it? Perhaps it's a none issue, or there is something that can be done to mitigate the suspension bottoming. Most of the time I cruise the truck down the highway and around town. But then on occasion - perhaps 3X per year - I haul a 2400 lb pallet of flooring in the bed 3 hours from Phoenix to home, or I hook up and tow a large/heavy trailer. I love the idea of the bed being lower and more accessible for loading/unloading, and I wouldn't mind it being a little easier to get in/out. I'm only 5'7". Plus I think it would look nice.   

I put the 2" drop shackles on my 2008 2WD crew to level the back.

Reason I went with that size was it brought down the rear almost level with the front, and did not effect the driveline angle. so no vibrations.

As far as bottoming out, never happened, still used it like a truck, stuff in the bed, and towed just fine.

 

Now for the 2400 pounds, don't think anything is going to make a difference with that much weight in the bed. 

[SouthwestORV]

7 hours ago, James ****** said:

it's fine, did the same to my last 2500. I had to cut part of the bolt head flat to get it in without removing the bed, just saved time. 

Thanks! I imagine a 2500 with the stiff springs would be less likely to bottom out. 

[SouthwestORV]

7 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

I put the 2" drop shackles on my 2008 2WD crew to level the back.

Reason I went with that size was it brought down the rear almost level with the front, and did not effect the driveline angle. so no vibrations.

As far as bottoming out, never happened, still used it like a truck, stuff in the bed, and towed just fine.

 

Now for the 2400 pounds, don't think anything is going to make a difference with that much weight in the bed. 

Ok. Thanks for the feedback. 

[JimCost2014]

2 minutes ago, SouthwestORV said:

Ok. Thanks for the feedback. 

You are very welcome.

[UofAZCats]

I put in the 2" drop shackles and removed the rear block to get it level on my 2WD Silverado CC 1500.  It had no issues with bottoming out or towing.  I loved the look better than raising the front and eventually ended up dropping the whole truck a couple more inches.

[Grumpy Bear]

I did a 3.5" rear drop removing the block and having Deaver make new springs with 2" less arch and 15% less rate. On occasion it will hit the factory stop on a rough RR track or speed table I take to fast. Had I not also installed a set of King piggy back shocks I could have shortened the bump stop 2" without issue. Next set will be remote reservoir. 

 

The factory spring is such that at 'rated maximum payload' the truck will in fact sit level. So if you level it and add 2000 lbs to the bed over the axle it will sag to the bump stop. If towing or hauling is a requirement then either knuckle lift the front and get a step bar OR drop the back as planned. Shorten the bump stop and bag it for hauling. Yea you could notch the frame but it will still be nose up hauling. 

 

IMHO of course. 

 

Edited September 2, 2021 by Grumpy Bear

[pokismoki]

i dont see the point of lowering a truck, i just recently did the front level lift, only because i drive dirt roads and fire trails, the extra lift of .75-1.0" block  is much nicer than stock for my use as a daily. it feels like a 2500 truck now.

i dont slow down for dips in the road at intersection, no scraping the air damn when pulling up to a parking stall, still clears under ground parking.  my only issue is headlamps need re-aiming and tire aglignment.

 

good luck on your drop kit

[CamGTP]

Mines lowered 1.5/3in and I don't have any issues with parking stalls or speed bumps. Most of us won't have to treat the truck any different even if it's lowered. Even though mine is 5,500lbs, it handles better with a lower center of gravity and I prefer the look. Big open wheel wells, big tires and that sort of thing are ugly to me.

[Grumpy Bear]

8 hours ago, CamGTP said:

Mines lowered 1.5/3in and I don't have any issues with parking stalls or speed bumps. Most of us won't have to treat the truck any different even if it's lowered. Even though mine is 5,500lbs, it handles better with a lower center of gravity and I prefer the look. Big open wheel wells, big tires and that sort of thing are ugly to me.

 

 

I as well have NEVER hit a parking bumper

Never hit a high curb either

Dog doesn't need help with entry

Like the much improved handling

Wife likes the ingress / egress

Like the look as well

 

BUT

 

I'm NEVER off road

Don't do gravel

EVER

 

 

 

 

[KARNUT]

On 8/31/2021 at 11:03 AM, SouthwestORV said:

I'm thinking I might order a $60 set of 2-3" drop shackles for the back of my pickup. However, it's my understanding that nothing in a rear drop shackle affects spring rates, which means that in theory the truck would more easily bottom out, and hit the bump stops. I do not plan to lower the front, just level the truck a little by lowering the rear. Any feedback from those who have done it? Perhaps it's a none issue, or there is something that can be done to mitigate the suspension bottoming. Most of the time I cruise the truck down the highway and around town. But then on occasion - perhaps 3X per year - I haul a 2400 lb pallet of flooring in the bed 3 hours from Phoenix to home, or I hook up and tow a large/heavy trailer. I love the idea of the bed being lower and more accessible for loading/unloading, and I wouldn't mind it being a little easier to get in/out. I'm only 5'7". Plus I think it would look nice.   

My 92 had a bell tec 2-4 lowering kit when I bought it. I had it 12 years. It drove like a car. I took it on job sites some no problems.

[newdude]

On 8/31/2021 at 12:03 PM, SouthwestORV said:

 But then on occasion - perhaps 3X per year - I haul a 2400 lb pallet of flooring in the bed 3 hours from Phoenix to home, or I hook up and tow a large/heavy trailer. 

 

 

 

I would change nothing then.  2400lbs is already over the payload of the truck even if its 3x a year.  Plus you will want the squat room for when the trailer is on.

 

Lowering that much, if it pushes you down on the bumps when loaded at 3in lower will put that much more stress on the axle shafts and housing.  Semi float axles don't like that in the long run.      

Edited September 4, 2021 by newdude

[pokismoki]

10 hours ago, CamGTP said:

. Even though mine is 5,500lbs, it handles better with a lower center of gravity and I prefer the look. Big open wheel wells, big tires and that sort of thing are ugly to me.

 you might want to add the oversized front bar, and rear swaybar kit, I've done this and its hands down amaizing for the street and twisty mountain roads, it would compliment the lowering job very well.

 

if you dont want to bust your ass installing the rear sway kit, then just do the big front bar, its super easy to do while you change your oil