Jump to content

Truck took a hit

Chris828
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris828 Enthusiast

Chris828

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, MikeBMW said:

Yeah, a stock truck might be fixed ... once modified with different tires and a lift, well, it's a crapshoot ...

The only modifications to my truck are window tint, amp/subs, more aggressive tires, airaid intake tube and interior lights. No major modifications or ones that can't be removed.

  • Like 1
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had that happen 5 years ago. Happened early A.M. and my previous truck was parked. Major damage to left rear and impact was so hard, truck was pushed forward about 20 feet and front right tire was pushed over the curb and onto the grass. Funny thing was that our block was only a block long and a "T" on both ends. I still don't know how stupid was able to get up enough speed to do the damage that he did. Of course he took off. I heard the crash but was recovering from surgery so there was nothing I could do. Luckily, my wife had just come home from work and was in kitchen when it happened. She grabbed her keys and pistol and ran out the door. She was able to track down this guy and found out he was drunk. She was able to get the police there quickly and they arrested the guy. He was driving a Silverado and I was actually surprised at the lack of damage on his end. 

 

I was more than pissed because I was about to trade this truck in soon. It was a 2008 that I had bought used and had it for almost 5 years. It had no previous accidents. Now it took a major hit. Luckily he also had insurance and between his insurance and mine getting involved, it got fixed. But now it was going to have a strike whenever a Carfax report was pulled. So I discovered info on Diminished Value and filed a claim for that with his insurance. This covers the difference between what a accident free vehicles value is compared to the value of vehicle with accident damage. At first they tried lowballing me and I rejected their offers. Finally they came through with a figure I was happy with. It ended up covering the difference when I did trade in the truck. But on top of that, his insurance while managing the DV claim, also got involved with body shop as they felt certain things of the fix weren't done to spec and had the body shop correct the mistakes. IMHO, the mistakes were very minor but his insurance wouldn't sign off until the repairs were done 100%. That actually worked out to my benefit.

 

So look into Diminished Value. It doesn't matter if repairs are made or the vehicle is totalled. It still had a certain value prior to accident and lost significant value as a result. If it is totalled, insurance will still try to lowball you. If end settlement is less than what the value should be, Diminished Value would help cover the difference...

 

Just to add, you don't have to even be ready to trade in vehicle. Bottom line is the day before you vehicle was hit, it had a certain value and the day of the accident, it's value has significantly dropped. You are owed the difference even if you plan on keeping the repaired truck...

 

 

IMAG1074.jpg

Edited by mikeyk101
  • Like 3
Chris828 Enthusiast

Chris828

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This is the adjusters estimate before going to the repair shop. I have a pretty strong feeling that total will be going up once they dig into it.

Screenshot_20211007-083633_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg

  • Like 1
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Chris828 said:

This is the adjusters estimate before going to the repair shop. I have a pretty strong feeling that total will be going up once they dig into it.

Screenshot_20211007-083633_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg

Yeah, it may go up a bit but usually just on smaller stuff that is hidden. I know when it happened to me over 5 years ago, mine came out to just over $7100 not including the rental car and the insurance company wouldnt total it out. I was kind of hoping they would based on the damage. And this was on a 8 year old truck that would have been worth between $14 and 15k prior to the collision. 

Edited by mikeyk101
  • Like 1
Chris828 Enthusiast

Chris828

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

Yeah, it may go up a bit but usually just on smaller stuff that is hidden. I know when it happened to me over 5 years ago, mine came out to just over $7100 not including the rental car and the insurance company wouldnt total it out. I was kind of hoping they would based on the damage. And this was on a 8 year old truck that would have been worth between $14 and 15k prior to the collision. 

Oh it's definitely going up, got a call from the shop telling me they had to bring it to their other location. Told me they were better equipped for trucks and that they believe there is substantial frame damage. 

  • Like 1
  • Sad 2
dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted

50 an hour labor?

That place works cheap. Too cheap. I'd question that. 

You can't get anything done for 50 an hour these days.

As a carpenter I wouldn't even start my truck for anything less. 

 

  • Like 2
Chris828 Enthusiast

Chris828

Posted
  • Author
Posted
40 minutes ago, dieselfan1 said:

50 an hour labor?

That place works cheap. Too cheap. I'd question that. 

You can't get anything done for 50 an hour these days.

As a carpenter I wouldn't even start my truck for anything less. 

 

That was the insurance adjusters quote, I highly doubt the collision shop works at that rate. I'd say double at least

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Chris828 Enthusiast

Chris828

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just an update to my truck, the collision shop is replacing the entire frame and rear end on top of the other estimate. The other drivers insurance is handling everything including the rental I have been driving around.

Screenshot_20211027-073509_Chrome.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Sad 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...