I’d be careful about treating any AFM/DFM disabler as a lifter-failure guarantee. It can change cylinder-deactivation behavior, but it is not a mechanical repair and it does not remove the collapsible lifters from the engine.
The other big thing is year/platform. A 2021 truck, a 2023 truck, and a 2025 truck should not automatically be grouped together for plug-in fitment. Exact year, engine, transmission, and refresh status matter.
Wire Pinout and Colors
Pin A: Brown/White - 5V Reference Signal
Pin B: Black/White - Sensor Ground
Pin C: Dark Blue - EGR Position Signal
Pin D: Pink/Black - 12V Ignition Power
Pin E: White (or varies) - Ground Control for EGR Solenoid [1, 2]
Understanding the Wires
5V Reference: A low-power current sent by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM - the car's computer) to the EGR.
Position Signal: Tells the PCM exactly how far open or closed the valve is.
Ground Control: The PCM completes the circuit to actually open and close the EGR valve using this wire. [1, 2, 3, 4]
This is what AI is telling me, in absence of access to a complete service manual for the truck. So there are two grounds and I think I determined one of them is bad. I need to run through the test sequence again to validate what I think might be a bad ground.
I'll be honest, electrical isn't my strong suit, but I'm learning.
That remote-start behavior is worth separating from the AFM/DFM side. A lot of plug-in modules depend on when the vehicle wakes up the OBD-II network and when the module initializes. Remote start can change that timing compared with a normal key/button start.
I would not treat unplug/replug every time as normal daily use, though. If the main goal is Auto Start/Stop only, the dash button may be less annoying. If the goal is AFM/DFM behavior, then fitment and startup behavior matter a lot.
Not sure how many wires you've got to play with BUT if there is constant power AND ground at the EGR how is it switching?
In other words, the grounding via the PCM to activate it makes sense to me.
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